Anyone else bought a Rubicon and had buyers remorse ? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Rubicon remorse :(

I hate to sound discouraging , but after owning a 2016 Unlimited Rubicon , I think I would have done things differently .
I read a few good points here on other threads .

If you have intentions of lifting your jeep in the future like I'm wanting to , your loosing your wheels and tires anyways . I want wheels offset an inch out and wider to properly accommodate a 33" to 35" 12.5 tire . Not sure which size yet but was liking the 35" better as I think the factory ones are 32" .
So now the cost of those factory wheels and tires are basically a waste of money .

If I'm paying attention or understanding this correctly , the electronic sway bar is rendered useless with a 3-4 inch lift , so there's another waste of money I paid for and another option I loose .

I suspect the Rubicon has a slight factory lift in it that the models below its don't have , so there's more cost associated with the lift it already has that's out the window . Not sure about this one though ?

I assumed I had 4.10 gears and now I learn I have 3.73's as I have an automatic . If I have to change gears to 4.10 or 4.56 when I go to a 35" tire , I'm taking another huge bath . I'm not in the USA so remember things are double to triple here .
I did read that with a chip , that when upgrading to 33's , that it may be ok . Not sure with 35's .
I'm not into rock crawling, just a daily driver and trails that have occasional mud on them , and am finding I need more clearance .
But ideally I don't want to change my gears , so I may be forced to upgrade to a 33" tire maximum . Can't see the issue with a 33 as factory is 32 .

IMO that transfer cases 4/1 ratio is retarded . Going up steep hills in first with 4 Hi seems as though it could be overworkimg the transmission , and when you use 4 low your screaming at 15 mph in OD . Some of the hills I was on you definately want some momentum , and when I got on the gas in 4 Low the engine fell flat . Not sure if I was over revving it or what , but I believe having a 2.72 -1 ratio would have been a much better ratio for long hill climbs .

My thinking is I should have bought a model under the Rubi and ordered the optional 3.73 at very little cost and seen if there good enough , and also ordered the locking rear diff option .
Then immediately got my lift , wheels and tires and been done with it .
All I would have lost is a Dana 44 front in the process , plus I would have had a better transfer case ratio IMO

Also another thing that peeves me off is the soft top inside . It's in the way and you must remove the hard top in order to remove the soft top.
What a dumb@ss company . Just put the soft top in a box with the rest of the crap that came in boxes that you use for the soft top .

I guess I should brace myself for worse gas mileage when I upgrade to bigger tires and lift . These Jeeps seem to get poor mirage right out of the box considerimg the technology we this day and age . I had better mileage with my first ford 150 truck with eco boost , and the vehicles twice the size ?

Ok rant over, I think I got it out of my system lol

Well I could snivel about it having no freaking back up camera at $58,500 , but I need the exercise anyways as I like to get out 5 times to see where my hitch is relative to my over sized trailer.
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 01:30 PM
McTrollyface
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No manufacturer in existence makes a vehicle for you to mod. The rubi is just a few basic mods off the lot. Since most jeeps will never leave pavement, its plenty. But if you want mods, waste of money.



Mpg wise hope pushing a giant lifted brick on oversize rubber down the highway. There's no tech that defeats physics. Complaining about mpg is like complaing about being wet after you jump in a lake.
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post #3 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 06:08 PM
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There always exists the option to fully vet your purchase prior to making the decision.

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post #4 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 08:01 PM
222Doc
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The 4.1 mistake is all you. I have a 4.7" lift front and still have the E sway? You are not informed very well. Why did you get the Rubicon? You can run 35x12.5x17 on stock rims, just add 1.5" spacers.

Op i think purchased the Rubi to be cool. back in 11 when these new toys came out. Could not find a 2012 2d Rubi auto in 4.1. Every option BUT. I had to order it to get 4.1 Nag1.< been running 35s since new. even after all the modes still got 18-20 in Lake tahoe 10 days go running around the lake after the Rubicon trail. thats in the mountains on 35s. not bad for a pile of Junk.

http://www.parker4wheelers.net
www.bullhead4wheelersinc.com
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post #5 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
The 4.1 mistake is all you. I have a 4.7" lift front and still have the E sway? You are not informed very well. Why did you get the Rubicon? You can run 35x12.5x17 on stock rims, just add 1.5" spacers.

Op i think purchased the Rubi to be cool. back in 11 when these new toys came out. Could not find a 2012 2d Rubi auto in 4.1. Every option BUT. I had to order it to get 4.1 Nag1.< been running 35s since new. even after all the modes still got 18-20 in Lake tahoe 10 days go running around the lake after the Rubicon trail. thats in the mountains on 35s. not bad for a pile of Junk.
Yes I messed up bad . I think I read you can order the 4.10 diff ratio a no extra cost . Of course the A-hole salesman was no help in any regard, as I mentioned I thought it came with 4.10s and he didn't tell me any differant .
The way I see it I'm going to leave it stock and try to live with the POS the way it is . Maybe I'll get lucky and roll it
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-10-2016, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
There always exists the option to fully vet your purchase prior to making the decision.
Very true , and normally I do my homework better . But without going for a ride wheeling up a hill I never would have known how much I disliked the 4:1 transfer case ratio . Should have befriended a Rubi owner and found out I guess .
I did read some where that that low range was a useless idea. Well of course unless your rock crawling . But I don't see where you need that much reduction regardless. You can't rock crawl in first in four low at 1:2.72 reduction?
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-11-2016, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorTendonitis View Post
Very true , and normally I do my homework better . But without going for a ride wheeling up a hill I never would have known how much I disliked the 4:1 transfer case ratio . Should have befriended a Rubi owner and found out I guess .
I did read some where that that low range was a useless idea. Well of course unless your rock crawling . But I don't see where you need that much reduction regardless. You can't rock crawl in first in four low at 1:2.72 reduction?
I would kill to have the 4:1 4Lo in my XJ. Yes - you can "crawl" with the 2.73 but not like the 4:1.

Wheelin (as it pertains to the drivetrain) is all about momentum and low end torque. The better reduction in 4lo and steeper your gearing the better you're gonna trully be able to crawl up, over, and around obstacles - slowly, high rpms, lots of torque, and minimal wheel spin.

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post #8 of 19 Old 07-11-2016, 06:58 AM
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yikes $58K? I never priced out a rubicon but I assume you can get a ****load of upgrades yourself for that kind of money, you can pick up year old JK's for $28K
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-11-2016, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
There always exists the option to fully vet your purchase prior to making the decision.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltmke11 View Post
yikes $58K? I never priced out a rubicon but I assume you can get a ****load of upgrades yourself for that kind of money, you can pick up year old JK's for $28K
Yes 58,500 seems totally out to lunch IMO . I could see 45,000 maybe . I think they go up like 10,000 a year.

You can get a loaded to the hilt FX4 Ford 150 for 58,500 . I guess I shouldn't compare apples to oranges though
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-12-2016, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MajorTendonitis View Post
Yes I messed up bad . I think I read you can order the 4.10 diff ratio a no extra cost . Of course the A-hole salesman was no help in any regard, as I mentioned I thought it came with 4.10s and he didn't tell me any differant .
The way I see it I'm going to leave it stock and try to live with the POS the way it is . Maybe I'll get lucky and roll it

1. Did you ASK the salesman or did you think about it after and assume?
2. He wouldn't have known anyway, he's a salesman, not a tech. I asked a Jeep salesman if they had any new JK's on the lot, he looked confused for a minute and then said "I don't think Jeep makes one of those. We've only got grand cherokees, wranglers, and patriots right now."

I'm assuming they've gotten better since then, but to me it was an easy test of how knowledgeable the guy was before I really started talking to him.

Beyond that, Jeep is going to gear the tcase/diffs for the tire size it rolls off the lot with, not the tire size you might someday buy.

If the dealer puts oversized tires on it, it will be undergeared. Factory gearing for how it was made. I've only seen a dealer do bolt ons, not everything needed to make the bolt on 'right'.



And crawling is just that, moving at a CRAWL. LOW gearing helps a ton to crawl. And if your engine is screaming... shift.


So looking through Jeep specs for 2016, manuals come standard with 4.10, autos with 3.73. Jeep won't let you mix and match that one. I'm guessing you bought an auto? FWIW an auto does fine with higher gears offroad. You're not burning up a clutch and an auto works as a 'torque multiplier'. On the interstate... bit of a different story though. Regear, go on with life.

And throwing every single option I can, at the most expensive model (rubicon unlimited hard rock) to start with...

  • NET PRICE+
    $46,690
    $41,795 BASE PRICE
If you paid 58k, wow. You got bent over hard. I hope he at least told you he loved you afterwards.

Last edited by McTrollyface; 07-12-2016 at 10:53 AM.
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-12-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Originally Posted by McTrollyface View Post
1. Did you ASK the salesman or did you think about it after and assume?
2. He wouldn't have known anyway, he's a salesman, not a tech. I asked a Jeep salesman if they had any new JK's on the lot, he looked confused for a minute and then said "I don't think Jeep makes one of those. We've only got grand cherokees, wranglers, and patriots right now."

I'm assuming they've gotten better since then, but to me it was an easy test of how knowledgeable the guy was before I really started talking to him.

Beyond that, Jeep is going to gear the tcase/diffs for the tire size it rolls off the lot with, not the tire size you might someday buy.

If the dealer puts oversized tires on it, it will be undergeared. Factory gearing for how it was made. I've only seen a dealer do bolt ons, not everything needed to make the bolt on 'right'.



And crawling is just that, moving at a CRAWL. LOW gearing helps a ton to crawl. And if your engine is screaming... shift.


So looking through Jeep specs for 2016, manuals come standard with 4.10, autos with 3.73. Jeep won't let you mix and match that one. I'm guessing you bought an auto? FWIW an auto does fine with higher gears offroad. You're not burning up a clutch and an auto works as a 'torque multiplier'. On the interstate... bit of a different story though. Regear, go on with life.

And throwing every single option I can, at the most expensive model (rubicon unlimited hard rock) to start with...

  • NET PRICE+
    $46,690
    $41,795 BASE PRICE
If you paid 58k, wow. You got bent over hard. I hope he at least told you he loved you afterwards.
I think after checking the build your Jeep on the dealer site that the 4.10 diff ratio can be added for $125 .
I'm wondering what the optimal ratio is for a 35" tire? Whether it's 4.10 or 4.56 ?
I think I read somewhere here that there's a wheel , gear chart to do the math .
If a 4.56 gear puts a 35" tire exactly where I am now then maybe I won't feel as if all is lost . I should price a gear swap out in Calgary and see what it would be . Once that's done I'd sure like to lift it and get new tires
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-13-2016, 11:49 AM
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Had a buddy who bought one that was admittedly a good deal, but I knew him and told him he would of been better off buying a base model. I knew he would have the axles out needing 1 tons for the 40's he would put on it, he ended up selling the jeep.

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post #13 of 19 Old 07-13-2016, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
MajorTendonitis
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Had a buddy who bought one that was admittedly a good deal, but I knew him and told him he would of been better off buying a base model. I knew he would have the axles out needing 1 tons for the 40's he would put on it, he ended up selling the jeep.
40's . Wow , To me that's an insane size tire for a Jeep . I had 35" mud TAs on my 84 GMC and I never got it stuck , couldn't imagine 40's .

The more I think about it , maybe this is going to ok as long as I keep the lift and tires stock .
Keeping it stock may be a dismal thought , but gas mileage won't suffer , and for the most part it's quite off-road capable as it is . Would have liked some more clearance , but oh well .
Maybe I'll add a winch someday if I get in a bad spot . Hate to be in the middle of nowhere and get stuck aand have no cell service etc
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-14-2016, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MajorTendonitis View Post
I think after checking the build your Jeep on the dealer site that the 4.10 diff ratio can be added for $125 .
I'm wondering what the optimal ratio is for a 35" tire? Whether it's 4.10 or 4.56 ?
I think I read somewhere here that there's a wheel , gear chart to do the math .
If a 4.56 gear puts a 35" tire exactly where I am now then maybe I won't feel as if all is lost . I should price a gear swap out in Calgary and see what it would be . Once that's done I'd sure like to lift it and get new tires

Looking at the jeep.com site, says about $700 and you have to have the 5spd instead of the 6. Cuz why not

For 35's I'd want 4.56 or better depending on my driving. I *think* you can do 35 with stock suspension, but I've never had a JK. My best guess would be 1k an axle to regear. Low COG is usually the best route to go, at least for off-road. The higher you go, the tippier you get. Use just enough lift to clear your tires, go out at the same time you go up, and you'll be as solid as you can be. My best off road rig was the OMG tippy (if you believe 1 magazine) samurai. 3" lift, and a lot of sawzall time on the fenders to clear the rubber along with an extra 6" width and that thing was SOLID on off camber stuff.

In retrospect I'd have done 0 lift and just cut more but that's not a cool look for around town.

And if you're new to the wheeling thing, 10 feet of lift gives you 0 inches of additional ground clearance. You're only clearing what you axles clear, and they only go up with tires.
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-15-2016, 01:52 AM
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Im sorry i dont know much about Rubicons.. or wranglers... im just trying to get my head over the price... 40-50-60k $ for a wrangler ? A wrangler to me is a basic Jeep on big wheels.. My SS camaro when i purchased it new in 2013 was $45k with taxes and i spent $16,000 on mods, lowering it, new stall torque convertor, all the bolt ons, new cam, new forged everything in the engine, cosmetic, lighting everything you can imagine.. im rocking 500rwp and 620 at the wheels. and in the end i still paid less then your wrangler.... Id never ever pay 40-60k$ for a damn wrangler lol. What exactly makes it so much ? You get no luxury like a Grand cherokee, basic small cramped interior.. no cargo room, and unless you get the 4 door you cant really have anyone in the vehicle either.. The engine is lack luster.. so tell me please why is it so expensive ? Is it because its "cool" or looks "cool" or has big tires and has the wrangler name, someone enlighten me plz ?


Im not hitting on you at all, im just trying to grasp my mind around what Chrysler thinks justifies the cost ?

2013 6.2 V8 Camaro SS 30k
98 5.9 V8 ZJ 180k
98 4.0 I6 ZJ 240k
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