Anybody ever put in a taller garage door? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
00XJ49
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Anybody ever put in a taller garage door?

I'm finally house hunting... Been out of school for a couple of years, and I've been renting (garage-less) ever since then. It's time to step up, but I've got a bit of a problem, and I have a feeling I'm not the only one around here to ever encounter it...

A standard garage door is 7' high. My lifted Cherokee tops out at about 7'2"... The house I'm thinking about making an offer on has an attached 2-car garage, and the garage door is "gable end" (rafters run parallel to it). There's plenty of ceiling room to raise the door opening, rails, and opener, but I'm not exactly sure what all would be involved in making the opening bigger.

Anybody ever done this? Is it doable for someone with basic handy skills (me), or should I leave this one to a contractor? Any estimates on price?

Thanks for the input!

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 11:25 AM
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You essentially need to re-frame the wall opening and put in a new header above the door opening. It can be done by someone who is fairly handy and knows construction/framing. Otherwise I'd have someone do it. Shouldn't take more than 2-3 days at most to remove the old door, re-frame, and install the new door (Minus painting of course if that's needed).
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 12:06 PM
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Really just the header needs to be moved. If you've got plenty of room to go up (should on a gabled end) you could probably just go to your door manufacturer and pick up another panel to add into your existing door. Shouldn't be too tough
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 04:10 PM
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If you are talking about a commercial size door,(over 12' high) get a contractor. The doors have a large spring on top that has to be "wound up". If you don't know what you are doing that spring can rip you in half if it lets go.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJunk View Post
If you are talking about a commercial size door,(over 12' high) get a contractor. The doors have a large spring on top that has to be "wound up". If you don't know what you are doing that spring can rip you in half if it lets go.
I seen a guy ( he installs garage doors ) cut the spring on a shop door... That was sketchy.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 05:28 PM
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Air down to get in the garage.

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-14-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Prot View Post
Air down to get in the garage.


Just pull the valve stems, drive in, work on it, back out, replace valve stems, re-air and enjoy.

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-17-2011, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
Air down to get in the garage.
Haha, I've gotten this advice from a few of my friends...

Any guesstimates as to cost? Gonna try calling a few contractors today to see if they can tell me anything.

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-20-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thought I'd follow up on this in case anyone else is interested...

Did some more research, and talked to a guy that used to work construction. As long as the door is gable-end (door runs parallel to the rafters), this is actually fairly straightforward.

The garage door frame sits between two studs (2x4s). Nailed "inside" these studs are several more 2x4s, cut to the height of the garage door, called trimmers (2 or 3 on each side, depends on codes for the area). On top of the trimmer, running the length of the door + the width of the trimmers is the head beam. If your garage is newer, it'll be a single "micro-lam" beam; if it's older, it'll be a couple of 2x6s with plywood sandwiched in the middle. Then there's a top jamb that's the width of the door, and two side jambs each the height of the door minus the width of the top jamb.

ANYWAY... If the door is gable-end, you just need to remove the jambs, trim the studs above the head beam (they're not load bearing), cut out the head beam and jack it up to the new position, pull out the old trimmers and put in new taller ones, then put in new jambs (you can re-use the top one). Then of course there's the finishing, but blah...

If you can get away with simply adding another segment to the door, you can keep the job well under $1k. If you have it done, and have to buy a whole new door, you're probably in the $3500 range. If your door isn't gable end (runs perpendicular to the rafters), you've got to worry about supporting the ceiling while you re-frame... Not easy/cheap.

I'll try to put together a picture, make things a little more clear...

*edit*

Here's a pretty good article for framing a new garage door - terms are all the same.

http://www.carpentry-pro-framer.com/...r-framing.html

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post #10 of 10 Old 01-20-2011, 12:14 PM
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I put in garage doors for a couple of years.... honestly. unless you really know what your doing, just call a door guy to come out and do it for you.

But if you are going to do it. All you need is a min of 10 inches above the opening of the door for the rails and spring, the less space the more miserable, and add 2" if you plan on an opener. There needs a header to get the spring secured down and it needs to be at least a 2x 4, I prefer a 2x 10 or 12 in the space upright. Most older garages just had the studs and an open header, no filler or plywood.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Formulaws-6 View Post
You essentially need to re-frame the wall opening and put in a new header above the door opening. It can be done by someone who is fairly handy and knows construction/framing. Otherwise I'd have someone do it. Shouldn't take more than 2-3 days at most to remove the old door, re-frame, and install the new door (Minus painting of course if that's needed).
More like 3-6 Hrs...


It really is just a matter of moving the header up and making sure you have at min 3-5 inches on each side of the opening for the rails.

After you have a header properly in place it is a matter of just getting a door to fit the space. the door is 1" wider, and 2" taller than the opening. so if you have a 8 x8 door have a 7'11" by 7'10" opening.

You can't just add a panel, The only exception is if it is a light gauge non-insulated panel. Even with that, your drums and cables may not be the right length. The springs are rated for weights, and somthing as small as adding a panel will change the properties of the spring causing it fautigue and break sooner and though doors may seem light.... they are a ***** when there is no springs on them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley91 View Post
I seen a guy ( he installs garage doors ) cut the spring on a shop door... That was sketchy.
Poping springs loose was my favorite part of the job

You can get a cheap door at menards or lowes... but you get what you pay for in a door.
If you have questions PM me...

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