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07-08-2009, 04:44 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coventry, RI
Posts: 860
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any concrete experts out there.
ok i want to have a concrete slab poured in yard for under my new hot tub. is there a chart or something to know how thick it should be for the weight of the hot tub 3000lbs or so. i'm figuring i could dig the hole and maybe put the crushed stone in to save cash. then pay someone to pour crete and put stamp design in.
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91 YJ 4.0 HO,
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AA SYE & CV,
35" Maxxis Bighorn
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Genright tube fenders
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07-08-2009, 04:46 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: US
Posts: 883
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4 inches thick with rebar or mesh
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07-08-2009, 05:39 PM
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#3
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You come back...one year!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,003
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Is it going to be just the size of the hot tub? If so, what's the point of stamping/ putting a design on it?
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07-08-2009, 05:46 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coventry, RI
Posts: 860
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no its going to be 8x16 and tub is 7x7.
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91 YJ 4.0 HO,
3.5" BDS, 5/8 MORE Booms, 1" BL, MML
AA SYE & CV,
35" Maxxis Bighorn
Smittybilt XRC8 Winch,
8.8 W/Elocker, D30 W/Aussie
Genright tube fenders
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07-08-2009, 06:02 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hillsdale, Michigan
Posts: 538
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NOt an expert, but 4 inches is the standard for a garage floor, so it will hold a hot tube no problem.
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07-08-2009, 06:21 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cincinnatus, NY
Posts: 1,347
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4 inches for a floating slab is fine. Just a word of caution though, if you are getting it stamped be sure to look at the guys other work. Stamped concrete around here gets a bad name because the county/town guys pour red sidewalks and try to stamp it like bricks, and it looks terrible.
It's an art form, from the use of multiple colored release agents to highlights right down to how much to float it before stamping. I have done it for about 5 years and I learn a new trick every time.
My favorite pattern is seamless slate. The pattern is similar to this, but the colors can be anything you want.
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I can't bear the thought of losing, I dread the attention winning brings
Quote:
Originally Posted by northjeep
4.2 has 0.2 more!
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07-08-2009, 06:34 PM
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#7
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How 'Bout Dem O's?
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: York, PA
Posts: 467
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4" gravel base, 4" concrete slab with welded wire mesh. Good to go.
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07-08-2009, 08:15 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coventry, RI
Posts: 860
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thanks for all the input
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91 YJ 4.0 HO,
3.5" BDS, 5/8 MORE Booms, 1" BL, MML
AA SYE & CV,
35" Maxxis Bighorn
Smittybilt XRC8 Winch,
8.8 W/Elocker, D30 W/Aussie
Genright tube fenders
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07-08-2009, 08:18 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
Posts: 5,397
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Take the Total holding Capacity x8 water ussally weighs about 8lb/per gal
So If it holds 500 gallons? that's 500x8+weight of pool then peoples better safe and extra thick than to thin and ur pool cracks.
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2011 WK2 Laredo with ORA1
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07-08-2009, 08:25 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ganado, TX
Posts: 533
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I dont know if the city you live in has building codes but you should check with them and see what they recommend.
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07-08-2009, 08:33 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: folsom louisiana
Posts: 223
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yea get a permit and ask for trouble
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07-09-2009, 06:42 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ansonville NC
Posts: 55
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Just get a reputable concrete guy and pay him to do it all. I would imagine the MOST you would save by digging/filling it yourself (stone/rock is $$sky high$$ now) would be a hundred bucks or so--not to mention all of the headaches. You can't beat a man at his own game unless you've done it before and have all the tools/experience to do so.
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07-09-2009, 06:58 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,413
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You have to have a good 3-4 inch gravel base for drainge and to support the concrete. They need to be decent sized stones. Being the size it is and the weight you'll want to reinforce it so it doesnt crack apart real quick. Most concrete slabs have whats called welded wire fabric put in for strength. If done right rebar would pprobally be a little over kill. I'd plan on a 3-4 inch thick concrete pour on top of the 3-4 inches of gravel.
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07-09-2009, 07:07 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 8,280
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maybe its just around my area but no one puts gravel down first, and no one uses rebar. out of the 6 different concrete guys i called all used like a 6 to 1 mix bag, basically like THAT1GUY said its got the welded fabric already mixed in and the truck comes to pour its ready to go..these pics are 2 years after and still looks as good as day 1
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07-09-2009, 07:27 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,413
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Well I'm a civil engineering student and in my concrete classes they say there should be a gravel base to the slab. Now weither its done or not is a different story. I'd still want a gravel base.
How is the WWF already mixed it? The fabric comes in a big role or in big sheets. I'm not sure how it can be mixed in the concrete. I'm not trying to call you out or nothing. I'm confused on what you're talking about.
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