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post #1 of 25 Old 09-24-2007, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Another Side Project (not jeep)

Just wanted to post some pics of my current side project. I have had this rail for many years and have beat the crap out of it, lost track of how many axels I have replaced on it. Well its time for a complete strip and rebuild.

This is what it look like 5 years ago, This is the oldest digital pic I can find



This is mainly a street legal rail, (I wish someone would tell the cops that) The most I ever do in it is hit the back dirt roads and fly with it. Even that will break axels, wheels, ENGINES, the usual things that break.



Since my accident it has sat under the carport for the last 3 or so years and Mother Nature has been cruel indeed. so its time to invest some money, sweat, blood and beer.

We Started off By stripping almost everything down, Theres more there then you would ever guess. Even I was shock and this is my second time building this thing.

Wile stripping things down, We decided to get rid of that blown type 1, 1200 up right VW motor and install my other type 3 1500 Suit case VW motor. This motor puts out more than twice the HP and runs cooler. (which is good living in FL) Its a little dusty but its a clean motor, just been in the shed for some time!.



Toor everything off the motor and order all new replacement parts or upgrade parts
1. Remove single carb and went with a Single port dual carb set up.
2. Remove standard Distributor, upgrade to centrailforce with elcro mag points.
3. Remove 6v gen to a 12v alt pluss 12v regulator. (could not find a 12v alt for a type 3 1500, so I'm having custom brackets made to mount one to this motor)
4. Upgraded all 6v parts on motor to 12v, the usual mess.)
5. install 12v starter and had to upgrade fly wheel to work with one. eak....
6. With dual carb need a fuel regulator at 3.5psi. (SMALL)
7. more and more and more


We got hit with the rain hard and had to call it quits for last week but some more pics Could have moved it into the garage but looking for a reason to set back with the beer and friends.



Dont ask


In the last week or so, almost have all the paint on the rail strip down, AHHHH 4 layers of it. all the holes plug welded, and allot of new parts came in. got the new disk break kit from hell, had to machine down the calipers to get them to fit. other than that. its going smoothly YEA RIGHT lol


list of whats left to do

1. finish Standing frame
2. finish install new break system
3. design and install new seat bracket and adjustable seat
4. design and install new gage cluster panel
5. sand prep and paint body parts, 6 total panels
6. stand blast floor pan and clear coat.
7 design break away steering wheel hub and install
8. machine new seat belt brackets and install
9. build new windshield.
10. build bracket for windshield wiper motor.
11. install new components on engine
12. replace front tires
13. new clutch linkage
14. new throttle linkage
15. and the list keeps getting bigger.

just thought I share one of my toy project. since I could not find anywhere else to post it.


I post some more updates on it next week.

Last edited by KINGZ; 03-21-2008 at 10:03 AM.
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post #2 of 25 Old 09-24-2007, 04:05 PM
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Wow. That was a lot of colors, and some interesting spelling choices.

Those things are fun. Looks like it would be a blast to drive. Don't you need a windshield/wipers to be street legal in Florida?

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post #3 of 25 Old 09-24-2007, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, I need windshield, if I have that I need windshield wiper, need running lights, and break lights, headlights low and high, need speedo, seat belts. pluss everything else you should have standard to have it run safe.


Yea, mi speleng is bed. dant lit inyone now.
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post #4 of 25 Old 09-25-2007, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just got done designing the new quick release Steering wheel bracket

Bracket welds directly on to steering shaft, With a spring Release setup, all I have to do is push the button in the middle and it pops off, to put on, I just push the steering wheel down nothing more nothing less.

Sent out the prints to the machine shop today.




Also sent out to the laser the new seat brackets and safety skid plate for under the seats, plus made seats adjustable wile keeping the high restraints in. what a pain that was.





now I'm hoping the new dual carbs will be in today so I can design the new rear cover for the engine
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post #5 of 25 Old 10-09-2007, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yep its me again. got another update on my rail rebuild project. Had a chances to do a few things lately.

The dual carbs came in with no instructions and a ton of small parts, ahhhhh, No time like when you are drunk to install something like that





opps they seem to be on backwards ahhh do it again.




after some work turn the carbs around, installed the new: fuel pump and regulator, distributor, coil, block off, filter, relocate oil fill tube, generator ect...


Im still thinking about going with SS braided fuel lines, but the connectors for them will kill you at over $8 each and I need over 10 of them but it would look good.




Ran into a few problem mounting the Generator, Coil, and Distributor. I ended up have to make custom brackets for the Coil and Generator. Since I removed the outer tins from the engine the mounts for it was no longer an option, it was mounted on the far left side of the eingine. but got around it with a bracket that puts it where the old carbs was. As for the Generator well thats another story compleatly, they dont make 12v gens for type 3 suit case motors, So I'm using a different generator thats 12v. so the brackets had to be made and fitted along with I might need a custom pully not sure yet. The distrubtor is another problem, with the block off plate for the old fuel pump location, the adjustment screw to lock down the distributor laction is impossable to get to. instead of making another fuel block off plate I'm punch and forum a new lock down bracket for the distributor.




EAK EAK as alwasy come across more problem, the kingpin and bad along with torsion arm and some of the stearing componets too. oh well got to do it right order the parts monday.



Color is looking a bit on the bright side but with most of that cover up with the body its not that bad.

more to come.
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post #6 of 25 Old 10-15-2007, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like we did not get done on alot this week but we did I tell you we did, a good 7 hours of work and drinking if not more drink after that, lol lol

wanted to clean up the back some more, so took off the fan housing, OMFG WTF it look like somone poored oil in it about 30 years ago. lol, well anyone clean it painted it, it took a wile with the sand blaster since you can not grind on magnisium.oh yea, put on a power regulator connected next to the oil cooler.



now we did not work all those hours just on that, lol, spent some time on how to get the stock pully to work on a totaly different generator, also I must have spend an hour at the store trying to find a belt that would work with this custom set up. ahhh. what a pain.. (I think i should make up a kit and sale it, the problem is I dont think i could fab up those parts again)

Well its hard to see but I relocated the oil dipstick, stange thing was the dipstick tupe on here stock was about 1" dia and came all the way out the back of the motor. (you can see it on the pic here thats just before the rain, it came out the back right of the motor) so now if you look it comes up between the fan houseing and the block. Custom dipstick too. lol,



it did create another problem, now I can not get to it to fill the oil. no problem, see the rag in the above picture, thats the hole for the oil breather, Well I'm building another one that will act as a baffel/oil breather/oil fill location. see the old breather only had a 3/8 hole to connect to the old air box (which is no longer around), well yall will see it when its finish...


Also created a gas level gage, red next style, took some break line flanged it, put an end peice on it, attached it to the top of the tank, then added some clear fule line and connected it to the breather. and there you have it,




I'm not sure if Ill get to work on this weekend I need to finish help finish installing a flush rear bumper on my friends ford lighting, then I need I get to work on my jeep installing a rear bumper, a front bumer, stearing box skid, and qick disconnects. and the weekend after that will be at jeeptoberfest, so rail project on hold for two weeks.


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post #7 of 25 Old 11-05-2007, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Well, here I am again, back to work on the rail project after taking some time off to work on my $$$$$$ toy the jeep. As usual ran into some problem, and some things went smoothly. Its a project, I was only planning on $1500.00 for the rebuild, I shot that out the window within the first few weeks. lol

Lets see where to start...... oh, here is the old gauge Panel, its welded in, rusty, no room for a speedo and I would always hit my knee on it.




So little over a week ago, I design a new cluster out of .09 alum. It would hold the speedo, Oil, Voltage. As for the key and switches, I held off putting them in, I still have not figure out which ones I want, so Ill just take a hole saw too it.




After punching and foruming, I went ahead and powdercoated them just to get a clean texture, that orange is really the only smooth none texture powder coat I have ATM, but that makes no different, it was just to get a base coat on the part, it will be wet painted a different color.


The panel will be bolted inplace this time.


Eak ahh only 10 images per post, please see next post lol


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post #8 of 25 Old 11-05-2007, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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more more more lol

The front end was a pain in the tail, it took almost 3 weeks from start to finish, Balljoints, Tie Rods and some lingage where all shot . Shopped around and everyone wanted about $90 per ball joint. WOW. finaly found a Classic part shop got them for about $13 each, lol. still have to pay $30 for the camabers (pair). any who What a Pain, Took 16 tons to press orginals out. Ended up putting them on an 80ton press break to do it. took about 15tons to put them in. I was shocked to say the least.


OH got the new head ligts into too. OMG they are HUGE. I mean realy realy big.


Well my plan this week is to get the wiring all sorted out. No small task, I hate wiring and I'm no good at it. I bought a wiring harness, but there is no instructions, the wires are not lable and its just a pain, anyone want to help me wire this thing up in the tampa area. please


It may not look like much, but theres allot there you dont see. there is a good 45+ connections that need to be made.
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post #9 of 25 Old 11-05-2007, 07:59 AM
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does that guy in the background have a mullet?

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post #10 of 25 Old 11-05-2007, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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does that guy in the background have a mullet?
yea, hes one of my friends friends from his work, who came over that day, got to give it to him, he brings over beers, to bad its the cheapest thing he can find and instead of drinking his beers he drinks mine.


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post #11 of 25 Old 11-12-2007, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well, its another weekend into the project, we are getting there.............slowly. It not my fault I tell you, its J.D. and B. Wiser fault, after a few house with them and the sand rail you would start to slow down to......

Any who, during the week one of my friends got the custom oil filler/breather/baffle finish up. Its the Shinny cap thing with a blue filter Breather on an orange base.


The old oil fill location was located on the bottom right of the rail with the tube sticking out. This made for a bad location for safety reasons, on top of that, the type 3 did not have and oil dip stick. So that was another reason to do something custom. We removed the tube, created a flange with a small dia. tube, bent up in between the fan box and the cylinder housing. You can see the new dip stick on the top pick, its just below the blue breather the little orange handle is sticking up. Due to that change we had to now relocate the oil fill location.



My plan for this weekend was to get the wiring done, yea right , I did buy a wiring harness and learned a lesson...... don’t buy something that is maid in a 3rd world country by kids. I kept the fuse box, and the main power feed, the rest well SCRAP. Started over, this is just some of the base wiring, by the end of the day I made well over 70+ connections and I have yet to wire the instrument panel and half the motor. (oh man the new lights are bigger than I thought.)


Since money is running tight and I'm already about $800 over budget on the rebuild and still have about another min $480 just in parts that I know needs to be replace. New wheels where out of the question (plus I need to buy my new engine & trany skid for my jeep today) so my friend got down and dirty grinding the rust off, so he could paint them. He did a good job.




Well after fabbing the panel and making sure everything fit ok, I handed off to one of my good friends to find a location for the ignition, lights, & fuel switches and to place the gages in, he did a good job. ...... yea I know the speedo does not match the other gauges, but I got it new at half price, well worth it.


Well I did wanted one thing changed on the gauges, the color or the rims, are now black, scuffed and painted, ewwww looks good.



I spent most of my time on the wiring, so most of the work this weekend was done by good friends. it all ended this weekend with a bomb fires, pizza & wings and allot of beer and booze and good friends as usual.


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post #12 of 25 Old 11-21-2007, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well got up early around 5:30 am, (yea for some of you thats not early, for me, for a person who goes to work when he wakes up, when ever that is, thats early) Any who, had to make a stop to drop some lights off at anther friends shop, since they where shooting pics of their new product, then drive across town to pick up my rail from the garage, by now its 6:45, by 7:30 had the sand-rail hook up to the jeep, no lights, no tags and started taking the back way to the shop, about mile into the trip, I hear parts hitting the ground, oh crap, pulled over and saw the new generator hanging by one wire, walked 200 yards back to pick up the parts, my friend took off the main bolt to the generator this week and I did not know. ahhhh.

Installation of custom Skid Plates for the Seats along with Seat Brackets for adjustable seats.

At the shop, we pulled out the small portable gas mig welder. I did not want to weld them at the garage, due to I can weld, and my friend is just learning. Also argon gas makes for cleaner welds, and I wanted to make sure that we got full penetration welds for SAFETY reasons. The dark things in the middle are the new skids.




This here is my Friend Rick, he a manufacture engineer where I work, and one great friend. Also one hell of a tool designer. Been teaching him over the years how to design on the computer. Say Hi Rick




Before the fiberglass seats set below the frame rail. I was worried that if we ever hit something hard, or something came off the road, there would be major injuries. The original concept design images are further up in a previous post. There has been some tweaking since then. It took a wile to get the parts made, mainly because our laser is back up till Jan, and punch maxes out at .074" on steal parts (.187 Alum), found a water jet place that did them CHEAP, (Iím not going to say why I got them so cheap ) The strange part was I did not plan on them forming them to for that price. $96 for a total of 6 .125" parts with 8 forms. Any way being already formed saved me an hour or more.



The other reason I took them to the shop was, the ability to custom fit the parts easily. Was able to notch out the gussets and form them for better fits. Would have taken hours at the garage. Wooop Rick hard at work, since the shop took a half day today we got done allot early then plan, only took about 2-1/2 hours to fit and weld the parts in.



As you can see the design has one major piece (.125") with 4 forms, the part sets in at a 7.5 deg angle. The angle allows for the skids to take a blow from the front and slide over it. Its also allow for the seat to drop down 1.85" when in the full back position from the front. Theres also an Adjustable bolt hole at the rear to allow for additional drop in height of .75" in rear position and height increasment of .50 in front position. The Main Piece formed and hooked around the front bar and welded to it. The inside flange is welded to the inside tube, the out flange has a fitted gusset weld to the tube. The rear has a formed flange, fitted and welded to the back tube. Since the adjustable rails are attached above the weld line, it allows the skid to take a 2" crush impact before contacting the seat when in the full down back position. The back area as a smaller contact to allow for bending of the skid, This will keep the skid from breaking the welds and pushing the seat up on impact, the skid will absorb most of the impact before transmitting to the frame and seats.




The adjustable rails I will be using are NHRA approved dual locking seat rails. they will be mounted vertically for a stronger part. (i.e. rails mounted horizontal usually can only handle about 60% of their design weight limit, most ppl donít know that and mount them flat)

The day ended on a good note, I drop by my friends shop to see how I could harass him some and over his toys. Found out that he has a few quick release steering wheels laying around from when he use to race open wheel formula cars, I think he ran in either FC, or FM class, and was open to FF an FA racing. (Anyone that knows formula 1 racing knows what that is) Any way Iím also picking up a new mozda rotary motor machined for racing from him too. good day.... Now if they just let me take out the Ducatie race bike for a spin.

Sorry for the long post today. I wonder how many ppl read these posts I put up or just look at the pics. I really should just create blog for this, but I like to share it with other ppl that fab there stuff.


OH BTW, Rick


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post #13 of 25 Old 11-27-2007, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got into it this weekend, engine, more wiring, and redoing the shifter box and linkage. I did not want to touch the shifting linkage, since last time took quite a bit of time to get it all to work SMOOOOOOTHLLY. Well some how I got over ruled by my friends??????

Tim working on new housing, oh Thore with no shirt on, in the back ground came over to drink some beer.



Dual Locking seat slide brackets, NHRA approved what ever that means, lol. still a have to form, fit and weld a adjuster bracket on them.



Test fitting the seat.



Im hopping to breath some life into the motor this weekend, as long as the wiring gets done by then




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post #14 of 25 Old 11-27-2007, 03:48 PM
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What kind of paint are you using for the bars?

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post #15 of 25 Old 11-28-2007, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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I cheated I was going to spray gun it, but was talked out of it, I'm just using can paint from Advance Auto Parts, its hight temp 1620 orange.


LOL I'm already thinking about tearing it back down and powder coating the frame.


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