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Unread 05-19-2015, 03:40 PM   #1
Johngpflynn
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2006 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: london
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WK Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 Swirl motor issues

hi
I recently had swirl motor issues on my WK Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006', 3.0 CRD, error code p2015 (intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range/performance bank 1), and red electronic throttle control (ETC) light on, car in limp mode, which a local garage established via jeep dealer that swirl motor needed replacing. this was replaced then 2 weeks later same issue light on and ETC on, limp mode. brought back to garage and he noticed the clips that attach swirl had broken, he ordered new clips fixed again and all fine then 2 weeks later same issue. garage refused to fix again. recommended I bring to keep dealer.
jeep want to charge for work again, which would be another payout, still arguing with original garage for a refund on labour.

from jeep forum I read on this topic and saw the reason for swirls failing. I replaced the elephant hose as the old one had the corroded orange seal and understood that the swirl was not really necessary and the work around involved using a resistor to trick the onboard diagnostics into thinking the swirl is working. I did that and both error code P2015 disappeared as did the ETC indicator light and no longer in limp mode, which is great.
however, a new error code has appeared p2008 as soon as I did this resistor trick, which reads "intake manifold runner circuit open B1" which seems to have been triggered by the fix.
does anyone have any ideas on the p2008 code and whether I can
just clear code and ignore?
thanks
John

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Unread 05-19-2015, 11:19 PM   #2
Chirpz
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Ouch....so sorry to hear of all your trouble with the Swirl Motor repair. You are not the only one.

I have not seen this new code you are getting. If it were mine, I would double check the resistor mod to make sure I got it correct, then clear the code and try it out....see if the code returns.
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EHM MOD, Garmin Mechanic EcoHD, K&N Filter (Deleted)
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Unread 05-19-2015, 11:52 PM   #3
Chirpz
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Ok.... now I'm curious.... so I started looking around and found this article.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p2008 Don't let it scare you.

Here is my speculation based on this article.... You mentioned that the clips to the linkage were broken, then repaired again.... etc...

I think you need to peer down there and inspect the linkage... The resistor mod will keep the swirl motor from moving.... but if the linkage is disconnected, then the swirl flaps are free to flop around inside the manifolds. If the swirl flaps are not in the same position on both sides.... maybe the difference in air flow could cause a code. I think you need to fix the linkage so that the flaps are held in position, or somehow secure the linkage if the clips cannot be used. I have a DIY on the subject of swirl motor replacement that covers the linkage clips. The whole setup is very fragile and easy to break. Chances are good that the "repair men" broke the linkage.

If the clips are disconnected, you can operate the linkage with your fingers and feel if the flaps are actually stuck (I doubt they are.) I think it is important that the flaps are in the same position on both sides. When the linkage is attached to the motor via the clips, the flaps are held in the same position even though the motor no longer works due to the resistor mod.

This is a speculation.

Here is a link to my DIY... thread

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/s...95/index2.html
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EHM MOD, Garmin Mechanic EcoHD, K&N Filter (Deleted)
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Unread 05-20-2015, 06:38 AM   #4
Johngpflynn
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Hi Chirpz,
thanks for response.
Firstly to peer down and check the linkage can I do this without going through the DIY PDF? will it be obvious from looking in, as to be honest when you pull out the elephant hose all you can see is the top of the swirl motor? so I am not sure what I am looking at. I read the DIY PDF and I am not sure I have the expertise to do this whole fix.
For note: the original mechanic said the clips had broken on both occasions, but was unwilling to fix twice.
Do you think he actually broke the linkage to the manifold too?
And if he did do this would that not have triggered the P2008 code already?
Or are you saying the resistor mod, forces the swirl flaps open and because the linkage to the manifold may be broken it is not keeping all flaps open at once.
Also another thing , what is the danger of driving around with this code? from that link, it mentions the main issue being your actual flaps falling into the engine.
many thanks
John
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Unread 05-21-2015, 09:30 PM   #5
Chirpz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johngpflynn View Post
Hi Chirpz,
thanks for response.
Firstly to peer down and check the linkage can I do this without going through the DIY PDF? will it be obvious from looking in, as to be honest when you pull out the elephant hose all you can see is the top of the swirl motor? so I am not sure what I am looking at. I read the DIY PDF and I am not sure I have the expertise to do this whole fix.
For note: the original mechanic said the clips had broken on both occasions, but was unwilling to fix twice.
Do you think he actually broke the linkage to the manifold too?
And if he did do this would that not have triggered the P2008 code already?
Or are you saying the resistor mod, forces the swirl flaps open and because the linkage to the manifold may be broken it is not keeping all flaps open at once.
Also another thing , what is the danger of driving around with this code? from that link, it mentions the main issue being your actual flaps falling into the engine.
many thanks
John
First.... I doubt your flaps will fall into the engine....that was on a different car.

2. The resistor mod stops the swirl motor from operating and tells the computer to pretend that it is working. The motor is spring loaded and always return to the open position...full throw. The passenger side arm of the SM moves toward the front of the jeep while the driver side arm of the SM moves toward the back. So.... IF your clips and linkage are connected properly, then the flaps are held solidly in the open position...and that is good. BUT if your clips and linkage are not connected or are broken, then there is nothing holding the flaps in position.... if this is the case I can only guess what they will do.... maybe air flow will hold them open. Maybe it is no problem at all....don't know. My guess and it is a guess, is that if one side is open and the other closed then there would be an unbalanced air flow that another sensor may detect and that might set off the code. If you want to eliminate this as a possibility, then you may want to assure that the flaps are open....tie them down if necesssary.... but re-connecting the linkage would be best then the spring in the SM would hold them open.... and since the SM is unplugged, they wil never move.

>>Do you think he actually broke the linkage to the manifold too?
This is a possibility, only way to be sure is to feel around there and check.... you can't really see all the linkage. Even if broken, you may be able to tie or jamb them into the open position...Passenger side forward, driver side backward. Its all very fragile, an engineering blunder.

The best way to SEE the swirl motor is to remove the fuel filter...it is under the filter. You can't really see the whole SM because the view is blocked. With the filter removed, you can FEEL down there. You can find each end of the SM, then find the linkage. Work the linkage with your hand on both sides. It should work easily. You should be able to tell if it is broken.
If you have small hands and a good flashlight maybe you can do this without removing the fuel filter. The SM is very difficult to remove and install and the Clips for the linkage is difficult to attach... I can understand why they gave up on it. It is difficult.

Unfortunately... if the linkage is broken, the only way to replace it is to replace the whole manifold for each side that is broken....This is even more difficult.... and expensive.... like $900 per side or so.

Once again.... since the SM no longer functions (due to the resistor mod) it is not important that the linkage is connected. It MAY BE important to assure that the flaps are held in the open position. You can tie them with wire, jamb a ball of tin foil in there, I don't know....be creative. Just remember the passenger side goes forward, driver side backward.

As for the code.... I have never dealt with this one before.... but it sounds like nailing down these swirl flaps to the proper position would at least eliminate that as a possible cause of the code.

Wish I had better news. It is not normal to get that code with the resistor mod or the EHM... so if you have checked for loose wires and hoses and tiny leaks, the problem with the flap position remains a possibility.
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4xGuard Front, Rear, Belly, & Side Rails, Factory Skids
EHM MOD, Garmin Mechanic EcoHD, K&N Filter (Deleted)
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