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Unread 10-10-2013, 12:39 AM   #31
MBDiesel
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2014 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 99
Update time...

Had some time to mess with it recently so I put it up on stands, removed the wheels and ran everything up to 70mph indicated on the speedometer, per FSM procedure for diagnosing driveline vibrations. Vibration was still present so that rules out tire and wheel balancing. Felt around while it was running and it still feels like the front. Pulled the front shaft and tried to run it on stands and the computer got REALLY unhappy real quick (even with ESP in full-off mode) when it realized the front yoke of the TC was turning but neither of the front wheels were. Wouldn't let the engine rev past about 1000RPM with ESP/BAS and ABS lights glowing away.

Of course with QD2 and the diff in the TC, the rig won't move unless it's locked up in low range. Can't test at 45mph+ in low.

Took the front shaft to a local driveline shop. They looked it over and said the rear CV joint is pretty dry and a little crunchy so they changed it out. Otherwise, they said the shaft is straight as an arrow. Didn't get a balance done yet since it costs extra. Put it back in tonight and the vibration is still there. I did line up marks I made on the diff and shaft before removal, but the rear CV was replaced so the mark I made there is gone. Vibe starts around 45mph and increases in frequency and becomes more severe the faster I go. Everything's stock as far as I know with no lift.

Pull the front shaft again and go balance it or should I be looking elsewhere?

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Unread 10-10-2013, 06:00 AM   #32
jediknight
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Good to hear I'm not the only one with such a problem.

I presume your's a Diesel too ?

I've been driving with that vibration now for a while hoping that the guilty parts just breaks out ... but nothing is givin up. (mine's not realy a vibration, it's more of a light knocking sound harmonic to wheals rotation below 50mph).

I've inspected the front drive shaft and there is a light play in the back joint of the shaft ...but nothing significant that would cause a such noise.

I think I'm looking to far down. Next step, I'll inspect the front brake rotors ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by MBDiesel View Post
Update time...

Had some time to mess with it recently so I put it up on stands, removed the wheels and ran everything up to 70mph indicated on the speedometer, per FSM procedure for diagnosing driveline vibrations. Vibration was still present so that rules out tire and wheel balancing. Felt around while it was running and it still feels like the front. Pulled the front shaft and tried to run it on stands and the computer got REALLY unhappy real quick (even with ESP in full-off mode) when it realized the front yoke of the TC was turning but neither of the front wheels were. Wouldn't let the engine rev past about 1000RPM with ESP/BAS and ABS lights glowing away.

Of course with QD2 and the diff in the TC, the rig won't move unless it's locked up in low range. Can't test at 45mph+ in low.

Took the front shaft to a local driveline shop. They looked it over and said the rear CV joint is pretty dry and a little crunchy so they changed it out. Otherwise, they said the shaft is straight as an arrow. Didn't get a balance done yet since it costs extra. Put it back in tonight and the vibration is still there. I did line up marks I made on the diff and shaft before removal, but the rear CV was replaced so the mark I made there is gone. Vibe starts around 45mph and increases in frequency and becomes more severe the faster I go. Everything's stock as far as I know with no lift.

Pull the front shaft again and go balance it or should I be looking elsewhere?
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Unread 10-15-2013, 11:16 PM   #33
1dzlwk
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Here's my current update:

I had the truck up on the hoist at my buddy's garage while we were doing a brake job on it. As long as it was up there, we pulled the rear drive shaft to check the U joints. They were both quite loose...not so you could feel any slop, but near the center of their travel (right where they live most of the time) they had no resistance to motion, only snugging up as they approached full deflection. My buddy is an engineer, and he described the condition as "Brinelled", which I took to mean that the races had been compacted slightly due to running under load, causing a bit too much clearance between the races and the needles, etc. He also commented that the U joints looked rather small for the application. Well, in an inexplicable stroke of good luck, a friend of his who is also a salesman at the local Jeep dealer happened to walk in while we had the shaft laying on the floor. We had him try the joints and he agreed that they were done and in need of replacement. He made sure that I had an extended warranty before offering to make an appointment to have the shaft replaced. I took him up on the offer, so his place replaced the shaft. The new shaft has the letters "HD" written on it in magic marker, and I can't be sure, but the U joints look as though they might be a bit "beefier" that the old ones. On my initial test drive, the vibration did show up briefly the first time I got it up to speed, but after I had to slow down for a light, it didn't return again. I've been driving it for about a week now with no further occurrences. My fingers are crossed whenever I drive it now, but so far, so good...
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Unread 10-16-2013, 08:14 AM   #34
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1dzlwk
Here's my current update: I had the truck up on the hoist at my buddy's garage while we were doing a brake job on it. As long as it was up there, we pulled the rear drive shaft to check the U joints. They were both quite loose...not so you could feel any slop, but near the center of their travel (right where they live most of the time) they had no resistance to motion, only snugging up as they approached full deflection. My buddy is an engineer, and he described the condition as "Brinelled", which I took to mean that the races had been compacted slightly due to running under load, causing a bit too much clearance between the races and the needles, etc. He also commented that the U joints looked rather small for the application. Well, in an inexplicable stroke of good luck, a friend of his who is also a salesman at the local Jeep dealer happened to walk in while we had the shaft laying on the floor. We had him try the joints and he agreed that they were done and in need of replacement. He made sure that I had an extended warranty before offering to make an appointment to have the shaft replaced. I took him up on the offer, so his place replaced the shaft. The new shaft has the letters "HD" written on it in magic marker, and I can't be sure, but the U joints look as though they might be a bit "beefier" that the old ones. On my initial test drive, the vibration did show up briefly the first time I got it up to speed, but after I had to slow down for a light, it didn't return again. I've been driving it for about a week now with no further occurrences. My fingers are crossed whenever I drive it now, but so far, so good...
Did you guys noticed anything loose in the front drive shaft (from tcase to front diff) ?
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Unread 10-20-2013, 09:43 PM   #35
MBDiesel
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Interesting. I'll drop my rear shaft and check it out after next week. The driveline shop around here has the stuff necessary to R&R the U-joints on the rear driveshaft so if they're not up to spec I'll have them do it.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 08:50 AM   #36
Jscheier
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I'm now on my 3rd rear Driveshaft in the last 3 months:

OEM drive shaft until 50k miles
Replacement drive shaft (OEM) from 50k - 51.5k
Replacement drive shaft (hopefully going in today) at 51.5k

Symptoms present themselves as follows:

  • Under load, and at constant speed, no vibrations, noise, etc
  • Under deceleration from speeds greater than 50 mph, there is a vibration that can be felt in the floor and a rhythmic humming
Aftermarket warranty paid to replace the original drive shaft. MOPAR 12 month parts warranty is paying for the current replacement.


Technician's comments were that the U-joint was seized on the drive shaft. He could not provide an explanation as to why it might have seized but did comment that the original drive shaft that failed, failed for the same reason.


Any ideas on why this failure occurred? I do tow with the Jeep (approx 5000 lbs) on occasion and have done so since originally buying the Jeep in 2007.
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Last edited by Jscheier; 10-23-2013 at 11:31 AM.. Reason: updated to clarify which drive shaft was in question (Rear)
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Unread 10-22-2013, 04:30 PM   #37
Jscheier
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...and, as a follow-up: Tech replaced the rear drive shaft and still found a slight vibration under deceleration. He pulled the jeep back into the bay, pulled the front drive shaft and road tested the vehicle finding zero vibration in the drive train. A new front drive shaft will be installed tomorrow and hopefully that will resolve the issue.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 04:46 PM   #38
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscheier
I'm now on my 3rd Driveshaft in the last 3 months: OEM drive shaft until 50k miles Replacement drive shaft (OEM) from 50k - 51.5k Replacement drive shaft (hopefully going in today) at 51.5k Symptoms present themselves as follows:[*]Under load, and at constant speed, no vibrations, noise, etc[*]Under deceleration from speeds greater than 50 mph, there is a vibration that can be felt in the floor and a rhythmic humming Aftermarket warranty paid to replace the original drive shaft. MOPAR 12 month parts warranty is paying for the current replacement. Technician's comments were that the U-joint was seized on the drive shaft. He could not provide an explanation as to why it might have seized but did comment that the original drive shaft that failed, failed for the same reason. Any ideas on why this failure occurred? I do tow with the Jeep (approx 5000 lbs) on occasion and have done so since originally buying the Jeep in 2007.
Which one of the drive shafts is in question ?
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Unread 10-23-2013, 10:25 AM   #39
wojomoto
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I have a shaking issue but its very intermittent. Seems to happen most during towing or shortly after towing. Normally if I stop the car and restart driving (I don't turn the engine off) it goes away. It kind of seems like something starts it shaking and it just cant stop on it own unless I come to a complete stop?
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Unread 10-23-2013, 11:30 AM   #40
Jscheier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jediknight View Post
Which one of the drive shafts is in question ?
Apparently both shafts are in question. The rear was found to have a seized U-joint. The front was found to have issues as well.

Is this a common problem in 50k mile WKs?
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Unread 10-24-2013, 03:56 PM   #41
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscheier
Apparently both shafts are in question. The rear was found to have a seized U-joint. The front was found to have issues as well. Is this a common problem in 50k mile WKs?
Thanks, I more and more convince that I probably have the same issue that you have. Only problem is the quote I got for the front shaft is 770$ Dont want to think about the real one!
(from stealership if course)
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Unread 10-25-2013, 09:18 AM   #42
Jscheier
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Be prepared to wait for drive shafts. Took a week (5 days) to get the rear in. The front was supposed to be in stock, ended up not being there and is being 'expressed' out of Detroilet. Jeep has been at the $tealer for two weeks now, but since I'm out of pocket $0, I am not too concerned.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 11:28 AM   #43
Jscheier
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Got my WK back from the dealer last night:

52853464-AB (front drive shaft) replaced @ parts = $590
52853003-AF (rear drive shaft) replaced under Mopar warranty

All drive line noise is now gone. No vibrations, No humming. No nada.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 09:05 PM   #44
MBDiesel
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That's good news. I've been rewiring my garage and have had stuff everywhere but I finally cleared enough space in there to pull the CRD in and drop the rear shaft. Both U-joints feel exactly the way Bob described; a definite and abrupt change in resistance to motion in the center of travel. Feels like a detent on a potentiometer. Off to the shop it goes...
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Unread 11-06-2013, 07:05 AM   #45
jediknight
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Aren't they serviceable ?
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