WK build- "The Badger" - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 87 Old 01-26-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Beaverton
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Here are the JCR rock sliders going on, again thanks to Matt at Accessory Outfitters to take pictures for me. They wisely don't allow me to hobble through their shop while they're working.

I really like how beefy these are, and that they attach to the "frame" as well as the body seam. The other ones I looked at tucked a little higher, which I liked, but didn't reach in to the "frame". In my opinion, without that big lever mounted to the frame, the slider is not strong enough to lift the side of the rig. I may never try to do that, since I have the hi-lift tire adapter and always prefer to lift at the tire if I can get to it. In any case, I may end up setting the jeep hard on a rock without meaning to so I wanted the beefier ones.

I wish I wasn't lowering that catch point under the door, but somebody pointed out to me it's still higher than the transfer case cross member (I think that's what they said). That's a good point, but I do often get hung up where the terrain is more V-shaped, so the center of the rig clears but it drags under the doors. I look forward to seeing how these do, and I'm not afraid to take them off if I don't like it.










07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #32 of 87 Old 01-26-2017, 10:24 AM
Lenny7
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Looks nice! Still waiting on shipping on mine. it's been 18 days...
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post #33 of 87 Old 01-26-2017, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenny7 View Post
Looks nice! Still waiting on shipping on mine. it's been 18 days...
Rock sliders or lift?

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #34 of 87 Old 01-26-2017, 05:31 PM
Lenny7
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Sliders. emailed today and he said late next week.
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post #35 of 87 Old 01-27-2017, 10:33 PM
M151Mutt
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That bumper looks awesome! Looks a bit out of place on an otherwise stock WK. interested to see where it goes from here

97 Mutt Jeep. No Rollbar. Custom Fab Grill, Fenders, Corners and Paintjob.
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post #36 of 87 Old 01-28-2017, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M151Mutt View Post
That bumper looks awesome! Looks a bit out of place on an otherwise stock WK. interested to see where it goes from here
It sure did. I thought it looked like a skinny kid with a fat head. Now it's grown into the bumper! I just got it back late yesterday. I wasn't feeling well enough to go for a test drive, but on the way home I noticed the turning radius is much different (as expected with such a bigger tire). I noticed the tire noise now drowns out the hemi until I step on it, so I need some more muffler work or intake work. It sits up better in traffic so I can see better. It drove just fine, and while it has less throttle response, it still had plenty. Other than that, I thought it felt solid and drove well (again, not a test drive, just home).

I'll get some better pics when it's bright out, and go shake it out better. I'm very happy with the lift and tire selection, but I do wish the hind end wasn't sticking up so high. I wonder if I can get that down an inch or two. We'll see how much it crouches when I get my couple hundred pounds of recovery gear back there, but I don't expect it to sag noticeably.
Z-Thad likes this.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #37 of 87 Old 01-28-2017, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Location: Beaverton
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Does anybody know why my pictures aren't rotating correctly? I opened them in picture manager on my computer and rotated them upright, then when I uploaded them to photobucket they weren't rotated, so I rotated them in photobucket. Now they right in photobucket, but when I paste the link here, they're not right. What gives?

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #38 of 87 Old 01-28-2017, 10:01 AM
badgerwithhands
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They're correct on my phone.
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post #39 of 87 Old 01-29-2017, 10:09 AM
M151Mutt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
It sure did. I thought it looked like a skinny kid with a fat head. Now it's grown into the bumper! I just got it back late yesterday. I wasn't feeling well enough to go for a test drive, but on the way home I noticed the turning radius is much different (as expected with such a bigger tire). I noticed the tire noise now drowns out the hemi until I step on it, so I need some more muffler work or intake work. It sits up better in traffic so I can see better. It drove just fine, and while it has less throttle response, it still had plenty. Other than that, I thought it felt solid and drove well (again, not a test drive, just home).

I'll get some better pics when it's bright out, and go shake it out better. I'm very happy with the lift and tire selection, but I do wish the hind end wasn't sticking up so high. I wonder if I can get that down an inch or two. We'll see how much it crouches when I get my couple hundred pounds of recovery gear back there, but I don't expect it to sag noticeably.
Now we're talking! Looks great

97 Mutt Jeep. No Rollbar. Custom Fab Grill, Fenders, Corners and Paintjob.
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post #40 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Here's more pics. Notice in this first one I've put the 33.3"X10" tire next to my truck with "35X12.5" tires. I haven't looked up those tires to see what the actual dimensions are. I was a little surprised how close in size they appeared, but of course the truck is squatting on it's tire a bit.


07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #41 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Now for some thoughts and problems with the project: Once the lift and tires were on, I was very pleased with how it looked (the bumper went on first, and looked stupid to me on stock wheels). I don't like the hind end sticking up so high. I've asked Accessory Outfitters to find me some springs or shocks to get it down an inch or two. They're looking into it.

It drives just fine, but of course with more tire noise and less acceleration. The turning radius is very noticeably worse, but I don't see it hitting anything, so I suspect it's software limited to make sure a 12.5" wide tire won't hit. However, since I have 10" wide tires, I could turn sharper if the system would let me. It may also be the geometry of the new knuckles (if they stick out farther, the steering mechanism just won't move the tire as far). I've asked Accessory Outfitters to see if there's anything we can do, and I've sent a message to superlift asking the same thing.

I'm probably going to change my gear ratio. I have 3.73 now, and I'm told that 4.10 was an option to select for the module that corrects all this stuff. 4.56 sounds better to me, but if there isn't a way to correct for it, I don't want to mess with it. I've asked the builder to look into it and get me the lowest gears I can make work. The hemi doesn't need lower gears, but I want as much of that stock launch as I can get and still run these more capable tires.

The driveline hit the gas tank skid plate on my first articulation test. It would have been a big problem, but my buddy's lift was only 200 feet away (I used his property to test it for just that reason). The driveline peeled the skid plate down and jammed against it, even when it was back on flat ground. You'll notice from the pictures that the drive-line also rubbed the next layer of the tank, so I was hesitant to just cut the skid plate away and let it keep hitting. All we did at the time was drop the drive-line and beat the skid back into place.

After posting on a separate thread, I found out other people have had this problem and simply cut the offended piece of skid plate off. That apparently was the only needed solution for them. I'm probably going to do that, but definitely not only that. I'm very worried about eating a hole in the tank.
I also noticed the lift bracket that raises the panhard rod had shifted to the extend the bolts would allow, in the direction letting the driveline approach the tank. We loosened the bolts and shifted it back, and it has stayed since but I've only been on roads and speed bumps; no special articulation. I will have the shop weld that bracket as far toward the driver's side as possible while still leaving the bolts in.

I assume the 95,000 miles and 10 years has left the panhard rod bushings worn out, which would further allow the axle to shift toward the tank. I priced bushings, and ordered a new panhard rod because they told me the labor for pressing new bushings in would be about a wash. I did consider an adjustable panhard rod, but a few people have had catastrophic failures with those, so I'm just not going to do it if I don't have to.

My current plan is to first replace the panhard rod and have the bracket welded. Then I will test it again at full articulation and see if it still hits the skid plate. After I see what that does for me, I'll decide what to do about the skid plate. I may cut it out, then I'd be tempted to glue some UHMWPE to the tank so that it can't chew through quickly. That stuff is very difficult to scrape chunks out of. I may also leave the skid plate, but weld a piece on top so there isn't an edge for the driveline to catch and pull down. Then the skid plate becomes the sacrificial wear surface. The only reason hitting the skid plate was so bad is that it caught the top edge and peeled it down until it was hitting the driveline even on flat ground.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #42 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Beaverton
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I also ordered an ARB dual motor air compressor kit. I chose the portable kit, that comes in a big tool box, but I'm going to have it mounted on the firewall at the passenger side fender. The guys at the shop said that if I buy the compressors, tank, controls, etc., and have it put together, it would be more than the kit. I went the easy way, and ordered the kit.

I just bought an H8 Duracell AGM battery to put in the tray under the hood. The jeep says an H7 is the right size, but after some advice from another thread, I took my battery out, used a chisel and hammer to remove 6 little bumps that keep the battery biased away from the fender, and wedged that monster H8 into the tray. I had a bit of trouble at first because I didn't realize the winch cables were in between the battery and fender, and were not letting it drop into the tray. Once I got those out of the way, and rotated the negative cable slightly, it went right in. The stock hold-down went right back on. Everything clears and looks great, and the jeep hasn't given me one of those clicks since. I've been having the yellow wire intermittent start problems, and just putting off the fix. It seems another half a volt is enough to punt that problem down the road (I will get to it).

Before I put the big battery in, I made a tape/cardboard box that was pretty much that size, so I can easily game how to mount a second one. I'm leaning toward under the rig where the spare tire was. My new tires don't fit under there.

I need to get serious about having a rear bumper made (with winch mount and spare tire rack). I'm leaning toward taking pictures of the metal pasja bumper and finding a local fabricator that will agree to make me one. I did find a distributor in Europe that says they will ship that bumper to me, but I don't want to risk the money because I don't know if there's anything I could do if they stiff me. Even if they are totally great, the guy said the bumper doesn't get made until 2 months after you order it. His website said it would take about 10 months. It's at least worth talking to a couple local shops first. I would hate to wait a year for a bumper I already paid for, then find out it isn't coming.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #43 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Location: Beaverton
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I'm well under way with my cargo area plan. I pulled off the rear trim (and cracked it on a cold day), then very solidly mounted a foot of unistrut right next to each rear side window. I have some 1 3/4" plywood that was donated to me, and I'm going to mount it across the unistrut and put bolts through it for my hi-lift jack. That's the only place in the rig that will fit my 60" hi-lift extraction tool. I don't want to mount it outside because this jeep lives in the rain. I know it works, but inside works better. I'm also going to mount my full size shovel across there.

I was able to very solidly mount the unitstrut. It doesn't even wiggle. One end is bolted through the bracket that holds the seat belt and seat bracket, so it's very solid. the other end is bolted with three 1/4" bolts and big washers on the other side. It's going nowhere. In the end, I'll rig up a 5/16" cable to loosely run over the jack, probably in an X, so that I either thread the jack under the cable, or use a strong snap link to release it. I'm bolting some eye bolts in all 4 corners of the floor, with big washers or even a plate underneath. That way, even in a severe accident, the jack (and the heavy job boxes under it) can't come visit me up front. I did this type of rigging on another truck years ago, and when I rolled it at the ORV park, the boxes of heavy recovery gear broke off the floor, but the cable kept it all hanging in the back.
Air compressor:


Unistrut mounted:

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #44 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 11:09 AM
derpboss
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To lower the rear a bit, you could use Old Man Emu springs, then stack isolators to get it right where you want it if it's now too low. Personally I think that's silly, especially where this isn't a grocery getter/ DD. kind of seemed like it was almost exclusively a trail rig, so I don't know why you would value ease of access over clearance, but if you really want it, that's how you can do it.
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post #45 of 87 Old 02-03-2017, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derpboss View Post
To lower the rear a bit, you could use Old Man Emu springs, then stack isolators to get it right where you want it if it's now too low. Personally I think that's silly, especially where this isn't a grocery getter/ DD. kind of seemed like it was almost exclusively a trail rig, so I don't know why you would value ease of access over clearance, but if you really want it, that's how you can do it.
Definitely prioritizing off-road, but to me that means staying as low as I can and still fit a trail-ready tire size. For some types of trails, ground clearance is king, but that's rarely the type I'm looking for. I like speed at times, and sliding, and I've rolled lifted vehicles enough to worry about being too high. If I could have angle ground the fenders enough to fit 33s, I would have started there. I don't rock crawl much if I can get where I'm going without it, and I'm more used to dragging sand or mud when I hit, which isn't usually a problem. The stock rear bumper looks pretty vulnerable, but I'm looking for a more capable option anyway, so I'm just going to tie it to the roof if it falls off.

I just spoke to the builder about old man emu springs, but they said that on paper, it won't be high enough, which sounds like what you're saying. It wouldn't cost much to find out, and they didn't mention the spacers so that would be a way to get a little more if I need it. After talking to them, I decided I would get the panhard rod done, then when I test the articulation again to see what to cut off the fuel tank skid plate, I would carefully measure the clearance left. If it looks like I have more than 2 inches, I might just buy the emu springs. I would definitely keep the superlift springs, so it would be easy to undo if I regret it.

They also suggested new springs up front to get the front up, but for the same reasons above, I don't want the front higher than it is, unless it starts hitting. They mentioned that by the time I get my rear bumper and winch on there, it will be leveling off some anyway. In any case, it seems like I'll put off any solution for a while. It might be a good idea to get some trail time first as well, and see how much of my ground clearance I'm using.

Oh, they're going to find me some axle straps too. I don't like using the shocks to hang the axle. For some reason, I'm less worried about the IFS hanging, but I don't have a basis for that.

He said 4.10 gears were as high as I can run and still fit in the stock housing and calibrate everything. I'll have to do some math and try to see how much that will help. That's a pretty low priority at the moment. I don't think he mentioned a price for gearing.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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