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Unread 06-07-2015, 06:56 PM   #1
xOttox
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2010 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 35
WK Big 3 Upgrade

So I am working on doing a complete stereo overhaul this summer which will result in me running 3 amplifiers for the system. 2 of these amps are class AB while the third is a class D. These will put a strain on the factory system, so to begin the project I started with the Big 3 upgrade. If you're not familiar with this check this out. I've chosen to add on to the existing wiring leaving it all in place.

I've detailed the process as best as I could while trying to get this done, so please ask questions and I will try to answer and if I can get more images (with ease) that help out I will. I assume you are also familiar with the process for attaching terminals to the wiring and figuring how much wire you will need. I used 0 gauge I had laying around from other builds/tear downs you can use 2,4,8,2/0 whatever you have. Make sure to properly protect the wire from heat as well.

Also, this is a general guide follow these steps at your own risk. I am not a professional mechanic and provide this information as reference material.

Tools needed:
Patience
10mm Flex Ratcheting Wrench (get this or there no point in attempting this)
1/2 Wrench
3/8 Ratchet
10mm Socket
1/2 Socket
10" Socket Extension
Channel locks or other good set of pliers

1. Using the 10mm socket or wrench disconnect the negative battery cable followed by the positive.

2. Using the 10mm socket and extension remove the clamp holding the batter in place

3. Remove the battery from the vehicle
4. Remove the engine cover

5. Remove the factory air box and piping. If you have a Volant intake like I do then remove the intake as it makes getting to the alternator much easier

6. Starting with the easiest one first use a 10mm to remove the negative battery lead from the body. Attach your 0 gauge to this location and replace the 10mm bolt.


7. Using 1/2 remove the nut from the top of the battery terminal. This can be difficult so you may want to use the channel locks to hold the terminal while loosening the nut.

8. Connect the end of the 0 gauge and replace the nut. Again use the channel locks or pliers to hold the terminal while you tighten the nut.


9. Now go the alternator (was hidden by the air box) and remove the only nut on the back side using the 1/2 socket

10. Attach your new run of 0 gauge. Reattach the original wire and nut.


11. Run your new 0 gauge along the same path as the factory wire (over the top of the throttle body and down to the battery

12. Within 18 of the positive terminal locate a space to put a fuse. I opted to use a 200 amp circuit breaker attached to the front of the battery tray.


13. Just like the negative terminal loosen the top nut and attach your 0 gauge.

Wow that was easy and pretty straight forward, right? Now for the real fun of this project. To upgrade the chassis (aka engine ground) you must first locate them...on the back of the engine. There are 2 of these points on the back of the 5.7 along the firewall.


14. Let's start with the easy on, the driver's side. You can follow the large wire (blue arrow) down. This is attached to a plastic support. Using the 10mm flex ratchet remove the nut. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE NUT! I used a magnet on a pole to catch it once it was close to the end of the bolt.


15. Gently pull the plastic wire support off the nut and attach your new 0 gauge. Be careful not to knock the factory ground strap off or lose it back there.
16. Reattach the 10mm nut
17. Route your 0 gauge to the other side of the engine following the other factory wires along the top of the firewall.

WARNING! Get your patience out this is the toughest part

18. Locate the ground strap coming from the firewall and follow it back to the engine block and locate the 10mm nut. (Sorry don't have a pic from before I ran my wires.


19. Using the flex ratchet again...somehow.....figure out how to get the ratcheting end on and remove the nut. Again be careful not to drop it.

20. Attach the 0 gauge you fed earlier on the nut, being careful not to knock the factory wires off.

21. Now attach your 0 gauge that will run to the firewall. Do not attach this to the firewall yet as it will be in the way when you try to reattach the nut.

22. Spend hours fighting with the 10mm nut and get it put back on. You will need to figure out what works best for you. I used hot glue to help keep the nut in the ratcheting end of the wrench and reached one hand over the top while the other from the side. Again figure out what works for you this is a royal pain to do.


23. Once the 10mm is back on the engine remove the nut from the firewall using 10mm and attach your 0 gauge and the factory back to this point.


Congrats! It's done and now you can put the air intake back on, engine cover and reattach the battery. Fire the engine up and check for any codes/warnings (should always do this after working on you car).

Questions let me know and I will try to answer to the best of my knowledge.

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Unread 06-07-2015, 08:26 PM   #2
bersh
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houghton, MI
Posts: 293
Great job, but you made the engine to chassis ground a lot more difficult than it had to be. Find an easy spot to get to on the body/chassis, find an easy spot on the engine (like the alternator mount) and run a wire. Done.
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Unread 06-07-2015, 08:28 PM   #3
xOttox
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Posts: 35
That exact comment was provided immediately following me removing the nut from hell. Oh well its done now.
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Unread 06-08-2015, 06:05 AM   #4
ggrassmid
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 334
No someone needs to do a write up on the CRDs for this.
Great write-up!!
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Unread 06-08-2015, 08:23 AM   #5
xOttox
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 35
The CRD should follow the same principle for the battery ground and alternator positive. Based on the first comment to this thread then just find a nice easy spot on the frame and bolt from the frame to one of the bolts on the alternator and you are to go.

I took and documented the hard route for the hemi.
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Unread 06-08-2015, 09:26 AM   #6
bersh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xOttox View Post
The CRD should follow the same principle for the battery ground and alternator positive. Based on the first comment to this thread then just find a nice easy spot on the frame and bolt from the frame to one of the bolts on the alternator and you are to go.

I took and documented the hard route for the hemi.
Agreed. The CRD shouldn't be much different for the + and battery ground. The motor to chassis ground is another story. The only thing I'd like to add to my previous statement is that obviously be sure that your ground wire isn't going to interfere or get in the way of anything moving, and make sure to leave some play for engine movement. Also, be aware that the rear of the CRD motor is pretty much occupied with the turbo and exhaust and there is a lot of heat back there, so you probably can't/don't want to use the same area as was shown above. I plan to be working on my injectors this week (if the damn parts ever ship) so I'll try to see if I can't find a couple suggestions for a good ground while I'm poking around.
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Unread 06-08-2015, 09:29 AM   #7
ggrassmid
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The alternator on the CRDs is a little more buried than what your picture shows.
I will have to take my intake apart and see if I can find the post on the alt., since I'm working on it this weekend (weather depending) I will do that in my waiting time and take some pictures for people.
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Unread 06-08-2015, 06:13 PM   #8
TurboDiesel
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Location: langley, BC
Posts: 2,172
thanks alot for the pics!!! notice any difference driving or anything?
or im assuming just overall less stress with the new system
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Unread 06-08-2015, 07:45 PM   #9
xOttox
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Overall will be less stress on the charging system when the new amps go in.

I haven't seen a big jump in voltage but have noticed that it stays much more stable when I crank everything electrical on. So stable now will hopefully keep me hurting anything once I start running the 3 amps. Next up is a large AGM battery.

Some guys on the SRT8 pages claim to see a hp gain but I doubt that is a real. At most you won't get shocked as often getting out of the vehicle and it may start up faster but no noticeable driving difference.
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Unread 06-16-2015, 07:11 AM   #10
ggrassmid
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I didn't do the 3 yet, but as promised, I took some pictures...
I have my air box out with a replacement cone filter, so its easier to see. You WILL need to take out the entire air box and intake tube to gain access. You can see how dirty it all is, as the Alt sits under the oil fill location. I can sort of see the post on the back of Alt and should be able to get a socket on it to add on a larger wire, won't be easy, but also not super difficult. Hope this helps someone in the future.
batt-cable.jpg   batt-cable-routing.jpg   crd-alternator-2.jpg   crd-alternator.jpg  
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Unread 06-16-2015, 07:21 AM   #11
4XForLife
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
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Did the same thing on my TJ....used to be big into audio but still a good add on for any vehicle especially with a winch
0514151934.jpg  
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Unread 06-16-2015, 07:44 AM   #12
bersh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggrassmid View Post
I didn't do the 3 yet, but as promised, I took some pictures...
I have my air box out with a replacement cone filter, so its easier to see. You WILL need to take out the entire air box and intake tube to gain access. You can see how dirty it all is, as the Alt sits under the oil fill location. I can sort of see the post on the back of Alt and should be able to get a socket on it to add on a larger wire, won't be easy, but also not super difficult. Hope this helps someone in the future.
One of those alternator mounting bolts would be a good spot for the neg connection, and it would be close to tie into one of the strut mount bolts.
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Unread 06-16-2015, 07:55 AM   #13
ggrassmid
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bersh View Post
One of those alternator mounting bolts would be a good spot for the neg connection, and it would be close to tie into one of the strut mount bolts.
Good idea! Will need to be cleaned up when I actually get around to doing it. Lots of degreaser and brake cleaner I feel. Might need to look into the "spill guard" and see how that gets mounted to keep oil from dripping onto the Alternator. Wish I could find out if the Sprinter 220 amp Alt would work...
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Unread 06-16-2015, 07:58 AM   #14
4XForLife
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Best engine ground is right at the alt case ...this is more important than the charging wire ...use as big or bigger gauge on the grounds as the pos charging lead
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