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Unread 05-07-2012, 04:08 PM   #1
Hegazy
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: lubbock, Lubbock
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wk 2005 Hemi transmission issue

hey all, i have been experiencing a major transmission issue with my 2005 wk, basically the transmission fluid gets contaminated with water causing loose in power, gear slippage and eventually an increase in pressure causing the fluid to exit the dipstick and causing sever smoke. i took it to the mechanic and he flushed the transmission, changed filters, put a thermal silicon seal where the dip stick meets the fluid container. all went good for 3 weeks until the issue showed again so please if anyone has any info about this would be greatly helpful.

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Unread 05-07-2012, 08:33 PM   #2
90grandoneer
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Also, have them check all the plugs/connectors on the front right side of the tranny. Sometimes moisture can get in through them. Have you been driving in lots of rain and through puddles? (If all is well it shouldn't be a problem.) Can you tell what color this "water" is.....i.e. coolant color?? Has the coolant level in the recovery tank gone down? If you're repeatedly getting enough moisture of any kind into the tranny and it is "steaming" out of the filler tube, you have got to find out where it's coming from, immediately, if not sooner. If you keep driving it like this, it won't be long before you'll be paying for a rebuild. Hope you find it. Please, let us know what is found.
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Unread 05-07-2012, 11:58 PM   #3
Hegazy
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first time coolant color was milky pink which is a clear sign of contamination, second time it was less but still caused a problem. the first time the mechanic flushed the tranny he said Chrysler recommends changing the torque converter as it might still trap some contaminated coolant but i didnt agree on that. now the truck is at the mechanic and he just told me we might need to replace the whole radiator as he suspects that the leak is coming from the trans fluid cooler that is built inside the radiator although we have pressure checked the radiator will the engine is cool and warmed up , and the pressure didnt change. so i really dont know what is the cause and i feel he is trying to pull my leg into further unnecessary costs.
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Unread 05-07-2012, 11:58 PM   #4
Hegazy
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and no i didnt drive the truck in any water whatsoever!
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Unread 05-09-2012, 02:15 PM   #5
90grandoneer
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Huh? I thought the trans. cooler was maybe the problem. Why not pressure check the supposed problem, instead of the radiator? Here's my take, FWIW. Was everything (all radiator hoses and, especially trans. cooler lines) hooked up when tested? I would think, since the problem may be in the trans. cooler portion of the radiator, that pressure checking it (everything hooked up BUT the trans. lines) would be the way to go, not the other way around. If the trans. cooler has air pressure on it (flush, or blow fluid out of the lines first and seal one line connection...then pressurize the other line), and it is leaking, with the radiator cap off, there would be visible bubbles in the radiator, along with a loss of pressurization. That, too me, would be the way to check the cooler. The way they did it, how long did they keep the system under pressure, and how much pressure? My guess is that, if the cooler portion has a leak in it, it is probably very small, since it takes a while to re-contaminate the system after a fluid change. I would say leave the trans. cooler portion of the system pressurized for no less than ~1/2 hour, probably even more. Absolutely no loss should occur, and no bubbles in the radiator, if the system is tight. I don't know what a new radiator costs, but I am sure it is not cheap. If it is proven that there is a trans. cooler leak, you may want to look into an external trans. cooler and bypass the stock (in radiator) one. Don't know, it might be a cheaper way to go, or not. Oh, if you empty the cooler lines and do that test, be sure to check trans. fluid level (hot) again. It may be ~4-6 oz., or so, low. Good luck and keep us posted.

One other thing they, IMO, are mostly correct about changing the torque converter. Be sure they have isolated and corrected the problem before they change it though. It is possible to flush most of it out with several fluid changes, but it probably would be safer to remove, flush and reinstall, or replace the converter. Your call.
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