I need to slip in an extra set of isolators on mine just to give it a tiny bit more of a lift. I actually need about half an inch more in the rear and another set of isolators should do the trick. I also need extended swaybar links.
Changed NV245 transfer case fluid (2 qts of MOPAR juice). Even though it was up to the posted service limit, the old stuff looked like new. Lubricity was good and no dirt evident. Jeep has 234,000 miles on it.
On Tuesday morning (4/5), I had new Jeeperf adjustable sway bar end links installed on the rear sway bar and new Rocky Road Outfitters Supersliders installed as well.
I see those rear LCAs. Thought about replacing mine with aftermarket as my bushings are going out. What brand are those and do you recommend aftermarket with a lifted WK?
They fit quite well once the holes in the pinch weld seam were opened up a bit. Some of the holes were drilled too high for them to line up with the sliders. RRO warns that there may be some inconsistencies and some modification may be necessary. All in all, they fit well.
Did plugs today, should have got the wires too as I noticed the original 2004 date stamp once I started, will grab them sometime soon.
Previous owner wasn’t too concerned with timely maintenance it seems. Old plugs were in fairly rough shape, almost half gapped out to .07+ and none under .055
Also cleaned the throttle body (partially, until I ran out of spray) which was pretty gunked up on the back of the plate and the bore where it sits in the closed position.
Haven’t driven it yet since but idle was quite a bit smoother and also sounded cleaner revving up.
Changed oil & filter at 235,600 miles. Still looks good after all these 5,000 mile interval changes. I switched to from dino oil to full synthetic 5W-20 after the 36K warranty expired (and break-in). Not burning any more now (between changes) than it did new.
BTW: The oil change indicator on my '08 5.7L HEMI is unreliable. Could come on at 2,500 miles or after 5,000 miles even though the usage is the same.
Working on a full brake job on my WK. Front pads, rotors, slide pins, slide pin boots, & hardware replaced with new today.
I have new rear pads, rotors, hardware, and new pads/hardware for the parking brake left to replace. Maybe tomorrow, maybe not!
Front rotors had a lot of wear! There was a 1/8” to 3/32” lip on both sides of both front rotors!!!
Wow, that was the least messes transmission fluid change for a while. I'm sure others have experienced some. With the assist from a fluid transfer 12v pump (11.8 GPM) I was able to change both filters and seal and in the end was able to install new drainable pan.
I was only able to draw about 3.5 quarts out thru dip stick tub and another three with a "J" tube suction attachment when I separated pan. Using a plastic water tank overflow pan (26" dia. x 3" D) was able to contain all the drippings and filter removals overnight. In the end, ended up removing 8.75 quarts and replacing 8.5 quarts of ATF +4, with the half being done after a warmup drive.
Happy Trails,
All three of the added lights on the bumper are 1,200 lumen flood lights. They cast a very broad light pattern, but unfortunately it doesn’t go far. They were free.
I’ll probably swap them out eventually for some spot lights.
I would replace the whole line. No sense messing with patching it and having another fuel leak, fire, etc. then I would sleeve the new line to prevent this happing again.
The flood lights are hooked into my old fog light circuit. Uses the switch on the turn signal stalk to turn them on/off.
Only problem now is to figure out a way to leave the fog/flood lights on when switching from low to high beams. I'd like to avoid adding in a separate switch for these lights.
Sorry to tell you'll need a two switch, so thier by themselves or with low beam power. When I Rallied and had to go through tech our auxiliary and road light had to be control by dimmer switch to meet DMV and state laws. They weren't concerned about road light wattage. Which is another matter, but it could give LIF a reason to pull you over. I stopped Rallying in 2K when SCCA felt the sport to dangerous and hard to control in the woods (at least the Insurance carrier did but would do Rally Cross like Solo One and Auto Cross but on dirt. Probably more then you wanted to know.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils. Can’t believe the difference it has made! Runs much smoother with more power. Also ordered new headlights from Amazon as mine are all fogged up and those restorer kits do a reasonable job but it wasn’t quite good enough. That is all…
Got that, "I could basically pay cash for a tesla if I am not driving my jeep, money." hahaha. Way back in the day a moderator on a mazda protege forum I was a member of got his motorcycle license, went out the DAY he got it, laid it down body hit a guard rail post and paralyzed him below the waist. Be careful on that hog!
My brother just picked up a cheap "dual sport" bike and I have been keeping my eyes open for a decent dual sport for the right price. Sure would beat the 9mpg I am getting in my Hemi Ram 2500 hahaha.
Thanks to the Arnold! My dream was always to have a slant back H1 alpha. May as well be a Bugatti anymore... well outside of my lifetime earnings reality. That looks like a fun toy!
Finally activated new reverse camera, since I blocked the OE with a Rigd carrier I've just been doing a walk around or approach, still do. Powered by seven-way plug.
Happy trails
Finally..... got the RHS front brake rotor off the hub. Replaced it with Raybestos.
No complaints. The MOPAR factory original rotors lasted 237,000 miles (14.5 years) before the LHS started pulsating when slowing down.
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