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What did you do to your WK/XK today?

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2M views 19K replies 1K participants last post by  99sajeep 
#1 · (Edited)
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#15,735 ·
Finally figured out the direction i want to take my exhaust. Originally planning to weld the Borla Pro XS muffler inline with my Gibson cat-back, i decided it wouldn't change very much. So i scrapped that and now i plan tomorrow to remove my 3" Gibson entirely, and run 3" Stainless straight-pipe into the Borla muffler, then a stainless turn-down in front of the rear axle.
I'll post pics and videos tomorrow of the install.

If i like it, then i will be selling the Gibson set-up. 3" Stainless Cat-Back, already DEI-wrapped and all hardware included. Ready to install in any HEMI jeep.
The set-up has maybe 10k miles on it, and some rust, but nothing bad. CA driven, no salt. $275 +shipping. Paid $500 on JEGS, i see that it is still that price new. Will edit this if/when sold. PM for pics
 

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#15,737 ·
Today I tackled the trans fluid and filter change. Ordered a new pan with a drain plug, drilled a hole in the old one to make less of a mess while draining.

Overall not a horrible job, that frickin filter seal was a pain in the butt to both get out and install the other. Everything else was cake.

Took 7.5 quarts of ATF+4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15,738 ·
Today I tackled the trans fluid and filter change. Ordered a new pan with a drain plug, drilled a hole in the old one to make less of a mess while draining.

Overall not a horrible job, that frickin filter seal was a pain in the butt to both get out and install the other. Everything else was cake.

Took 7.5 quarts of ATF+4.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you change regularly? Mine hasn't been changed and I'm at 128k miles, a buddy said not to do it if I haven't done it regularly because it would start acting up on me.
 
#15,742 ·
Notes on dropping front diff for diff bushing replacement

Feel free to PM me.

Best way is to pull the CV axes before removing the bushing bolts. I made the error of removing the bushing bolts first, s had nothing to hold the diff solid when I tried to pop the driver's side CV axle out. Tis was a little odd (maybe) since a week earlier when I changed the driver's side CV axle, it popped out without issue. Maybe because it is a new one, or the expansion clip may have gotten lodged. Likely rotating it and giving it a quick pull will help. To do that you would need to disconnect the lower ball joint and the clevis bolt from the LCA (probably)

When I lowered the diff with a floor jack, the passenger side CV axle separated without me even having to try. There are O-rings there, and the diff will start to leak a bit if it is on an angle once the axles are disco'd. Until then you should be fine.

Note I purposely did not fill the diff before installing so it would not leak and I am glad. It was much more difficult to jack into place, and here having it ratchet strapped to jack, or a proper transmission jack would be helpful.

Suggestion:

Put floor jack under diff, towards back of centerline.

Loosen but do not remove two front bushing bolts that go into frame. (Guides say leave that one attached until last, but honestly to get the driver's side nut (hint: 18 mm on nut to front, 16 mm on bolt head to rear) with a socket or wrench to hold, I found it easier to drop the front a bit.

Make sure you mark the driveshaft CV joint all the way to the front onto diff yolk. It separates not where I expected.

Remove right and left bushing bolts

Then remove front bushing bolts.
Lower to floor slowly
CV axles should slip out as you drop. They may need some push and pull to make it happen.

If you are worried about fluid loss, just drain it first. Its a 14 mm hex allen key. I had a hard time finding one, so used a 14 mm hardened bolt and vise grips.

N.B. Be careful disconnecting the electrical connector for the ELSD. I still have not figured out how they work and break the retaining safety too often. Also when you disconnect the vent pipe, curl it up behind steering rack because it will likely drop out some oil.

See two attached photos showing front driveshaft CV coupler separation, and very difficult to see nut to remove with 18 mm and 16 mm.

Hint: you can see the very difficult to reach nut (barely) in both photos.

I used the bolt side to turn the bolt, and the nut side to just hold the nut steady since there is so little room on the nut end. To get a wrench or socket in, start at the front sideway, and then slide it towards the nut. You will see what I mean. :
Wear gloves!
Its a >:)

Sorry for typos, its 1:13 a.m. couldn't sleep.

Good luck.
 

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#15,744 ·
Installed my cb antenna and taillight mount to only realize later that it didn't clear my garage door....
 
#15,745 ·
UPDATE:

So After A long Weekend, and waiting for some parts in the mail. I got to finally finish the front end suspension with what I had to swap over, and had to pick up a few things.

-- New Outer Tie Rods

-- New Lower Ball Joints

-- New Hub/Bearing Assm

-- New CV Axles Both Sides

-- New Wheel Speed Sensors


Parts Transfered Over:

-- JBA Upper Control Arms

-- JKS Ext. Sway Bar Links

-- Power Stop Brake calipers

-- Stop Tech SS Brake Lines

Check out hte build thread for pics
 
#15,746 ·
Front End Redo

After being on jackstands for a week the WK is now on the road. (Still needs an alignment)

Yesterday:

Added the last LCA
New Stillen Front brake rotors and pads
Pinch weld mod (Cut, bent and Rust Painted)
Will add bedliner today

Still need to do inner fenders.
 

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#15,748 ·
Removed Plastic sides. Hydraulic Steering Line Leak fixed

Decided to take the plunge and rip these off, well one anyway. Sent it away with the recycling truck today, so no going back.

Will clean it up and bed line it next week. Wanted to take the time to clean it up and let layers sit. Also want to get as much of the rust between the lower rocker panel pinch weld as possible before sealing it in.

Also I have a bead of rust up inside along the floorboard and sidewall next to the transmission, bell housing area. not sure best way to make sure it gets gone for good. Likely wire wheel, rust paint, and bed line.

Drained power steering fluid and added teflon tape to this slowly leaking brass joint on the right. Did them both, all four of course. Wire wheeled threads to clean and then added teflon tape. Tried tightening it yesterday, but that made it go from drop drop to steady leak. '

I drained it and gave it time, but as soon as I started working on the lines more kept coming out, was a bit of a mess but was prepared so no real drama.

Also see attached photos of two Power Steering Fluids that can be used. I use the Mercedes one now since it is the original green fluid that was developed by Mercedes and Pentosin. See also Pentosin container. You can use any of these, depending what is cheaper in your neck of the woods. This applies to WK CRDs and those that have hydraulic cooling fan attached to Power steering system.
 

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#15,749 ·
I managed to get a few things done over the weekend in preparation for Grand Slam West. The big news however is happening over the next 2 days. I just dropped off the GC at J2 Speed and Custom here in Omaha. They are building me a drop down tire carrier. I'll post up pics as soon as I get it back.

Sent from my Samsung Note 5
 
#15,750 ·
A few pics of the drop down tire carrier in progress. I'll post up full details in my build log when I get it back. It's designed to fit a 35" tire, although I'm currently running 33's. It's also spring loaded, so it you don't actually have to lift it back in place after dropping it down.


 
#15,752 ·
It will be mounted to the receiver bar. The hitch is not part of it. It's there at the moment to prop up the carrier until the pin mounting/release mechanism is built. Price is TBD, although he's certain it will be less than $500. No idea on if he'd build others. I know he's using my GC as a template, but I'm not sure how repeatable it is after the fact. I'd certainly be happy to ask.
 
#15,764 ·
Temps?

Hey guys, I finally got around to making another Jeep video for my channel. In this video, I install a new Hoodliner by Dynamat beneath my hood as well as some other things. The liner has a few benefits such as a quieter engine bay and a cooler engine. Come check the video out for more!

Dynamat Hoodliner
Hi: I guess another interesting question would be temps before and after. I am currently stripping out insulation to help lower engine bay temps and increase performance, longevity of parts.
 
#15,761 · (Edited)
Cleaned my throttle body and IAC (idle air control) today and she idles better than she ever has now.

BUT...

The connector to the TPS (throttle position sensor) will not stay secured to the sensor. The little red tab will "click" into place but I can easily pull it off. It was a pain to pull off initially, so I'm wondering if the previous owner put a couple of drops of super glue on it to secure it.

I currently have it zip-tied into place but don't know how long that will last





Does anyone know if that connector is available to order and if so what the P/N would be, or do I have to go to a salvage yard and do a little snip-snip.

Edited to add: I found the P/N fit the connector, should be 5161920-AA.
 
#15,763 · (Edited)
Rear Stillens, Rear Disconnects

Put Stillen rotors on rear. That was easy part since I didn't order a new parking brake kit I had to clean it all and put it back together scrape, wire wheel, paint etc.

Real PITA to reassemble parking break. Actuator seems to fit upside down, Gravity is not your friend in this exercise.

Just had alignment done yesterday, some issues with castor. Will need to contact Marlin from JBA, 4X Guard to see what happened. Still waiting for an answer on why my extended lift front discos are maximum same length as my stock ones.

Not many photos, but here are a few.

Also installed rear Rubicon Express anti-swaybar disconnects. Now really looking forward to getting off-road.

Also pulled off passenger side plastic rocker panel guard.
 

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#15,765 ·
2010 srt8

After drooling over the SRTs for years, I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 2010 SRT8 this week. I usually buy Jeeps with roughly 100k on the ticker and drive them to 200k, but my 2004 Overland was turning into a rust bucket at ~185k and I was ready for an upgrade. The SRT8 only has 44,500 miles, meaning it has less than half the mileage of any car I've owned previously. She's a beauty!

I'm installing a cabin air filter and replacing all of the lug nuts this afternoon. The existing lugs are scratched up and several are missing caps, so I'm putting on solid one-piece lugs. She's also running winter tires for some reason, so I've got to drop cash to buy some decent summer tires. It seems like there aren't many good options for the 255/45/ZR20s and 285/40/ZR20s on the WK SRTs.
 
#15,766 ·
After drooling over the SRTs for years, I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 2010 SRT8 this week. I usually buy Jeeps with roughly 100k on the ticker and drive them to 200k, but my 2004 Overland was turning into a rust bucket at ~185k and I was ready for an upgrade. The SRT8 only has 44,500 miles, meaning it has less than half the mileage of any car I've owned previously. She's a beauty!

I'm installing a cabin air filter and replacing all of the lug nuts this afternoon. The existing lugs are scratched up and several are missing caps, so I'm putting on solid one-piece lugs. She's also running winter tires for some reason, so I've got to drop cash to buy some decent summer tires. It seems like there aren't many good options for the 255/45/ZR20s and 285/40/ZR20s on the WK SRTs.
Pics or it didn't happen.. :)
 
#15,768 ·
JK Fuel Door


Purchased a JK fuel door of eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1Pc-Stai...442017?hash=item4d405ee2a1:g:BrsAAOSw3ydVgTae

Didn't want chrome so set about making it fit the WK.

First was removal of the stock door & cutting a square out between the original mounting points so the hinge on the new door will fit.


Next was trimming the back housing so it would sit flush on the body work.


Now I wanted to be able to reverse the install if I changed my mind so I used black gasket silastic & stuck the backing plate to the body.


Gave it a few hours & put the cover on.



With the mod for the hinge being only minor returning to stock will be simple & unless it was pointed out I doubt anyone would notice.

I like the look of this fuel door but $200 delivered to Oz! I don't think so.
 
#15,773 ·
I got a massive amount of things knocked off the GC checklist over the long weekend. Interior upgrades were one of the items on the list. In this picture, you can see a few of them. New switches in custom panel below the AC controls, switches for the diff lock override, and a new grab bar in the dash (of which I like the function, but it's too damn shiny!)

 
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