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Did changing the bushings make a noticeable difference? I have a good bit a racket coming from the front and rear when I hit bumps, so I'm considering doing bushings even though none are noticeably bad.Last night replaced the front stabilizer bar bushings and tried to do the links, unfortunately they are too stuck for hand tools. These are the ones I got if anyone is curious. Moog K200160 Sway Bar Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498UI42/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_wRhoxb6ARY4JA
Then I walked out and saw this this morning.
Do you have a picture? Without seeing it, I would guess that it is seam in the aluminum from casting and should be nothing to worry about.One concern was sharp burrs on inside of aluminum diff cover plate. Almost seemed like stress lines. Anybody seen this?
I swapped out for the Moog sway bar bushings last year. It took care of the clunking. However a couple weeks later we went up to the lake. It's a rough ride, and the same clunk is back now. A little worse actually. I haven't decided what to do yet. We head up there 3-4 times a year.BDar said:This. I was just about to start a thread about this because when I'm driving on a bumpy road or over some railroad tracks, it sounds like the Jeep is gonna fall to pieces but I know everything looks sturdy. Anyone else driving around a giant rattle box?
What state are you in that allows a tinted windshield?? I'd get pulled over soo fast in California for that haha :laugh:I'm new here and this is my first post with more to come. About 2 weeks ago I had my lift and struts installed and about one week ago I got my rims put on.
Today however, I got my windshield tinted and took my antenna off.
Still coming up with ideas for further projects. I have some vinyl coming and i'm thinking about a roof rack.
Will the diff leak fluid with axles still attached? I will be removing mine when I do the header install. Not sure the best way to lower it out of there is. I was curious if fluid would drain out if the diff tipped one way or the other.Until last week I had a construction bin in my driveway and was unable to get within twenty feet of my garage, and could not leave the Jeep up in the air longer than the weekend.
Now that has changed, I pulled the front differential and lower control arms in order to replace all the bushings. I had changed two bushings and the BJ last week, but could not get the front bushing out. Since I had the time last week I sent it over to a friend who pushed them out and pressed in the new ones at his shop. I have to say, next time I will likely just buy new Lower control arms, and rebuild the ones I have for next round if needed
I followed Omelet's guide to getting the old bushings out. Only needed to push two out. The replacements I bought from Kolak had the mounting bracket with the front bushing included.
I used my BJ press to just pop the centers out, and then used a Sawzall to cut the circle, and then push the bushing circles out. I tried other means for the first one to no avail, so just gave up and went with the sawzall approach. Put some good scores in my diff housing, hope that wont be a problem later.
Be careful with this approach!
Put the diff back in today and got one LCA back in place. A lot of work, but hopefully this will be about all I need to do to the front end for the next while.
Also took the opportunity to drain the diff fluid, and reseal the diff cover while the diff was out and on the garage floor. Didn't add the oil though, as much as I would have liked to, but figured it would leak out while trying to get it back into place. (Reminder: add new fluid, before I take it for a test drive)
Glad I had the inner fenders out already. Bit tough to get the bushing bolt tightened up under the steering column. Don't know what the torque is, and do not care as the possibility of getting a two foot torque wrench in there is slim to none.
Will add new Stillen rotors and pads from Kolak tomorrow, as well as do the pinch weld mod. Hope to get an alignment done this week, and that should do it for awhile.
Also picked up a set of rear anti sway-bar disconnects, so once I figure out how to hook those up, I will be looking for some off-road articulation testing with full sway-bar disco. They are the Rubicon express parts.
Tired.