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What did you do to your WK/XK today?

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2M views 19K replies 1K participants last post by  99sajeep 
#1 · (Edited)
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#15,643 ·
Front diff bushing. 3.5 hours and I was done, tools put away.

Only did the bushing over the pinion. It was totally trashed. The others all looked mint.

I'd say it wouldn't only take another 15min to replace another bushing while you're in there. That was honestly about the easiest part of the whole job.

FWIW - Worst parts are getting the front driveshaft unbolted and removing the nut/bolt from the upper pinion bushing.
 

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#15,644 ·
Stowed the D-rings and shackles after the truck parked next to me had them stolen off his during the night.. sad world we live in. I'll be gone all next month so I'm not taking chances. Also removed the tail light guards, thinking about keeping them off or selling them. They've been on for so long I kind of like it without.
 

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#15,649 ·
Round 3 of Try and Fix Glowing LED Interior Lights

These damn interior lights have been tormenting me for weeks now. I replaced the map lights first with LED.. and they weren't turning off when I closed the doors on the car. They stayed on for hours.

Then I replaced the floorboard lights, this caused the rear overhead lights to start glowing full blast all the time. So to avoid draining my battery I replaced those as well with LED.. Then the tailgate light.

Now Ive tried adding resistors across the socket on a few lights, no luck, tried adding incandescent floorboard lights back.. rear lights still stay on... put the old bulb back in the tailgate.. and now Im back to just the map lights being swapped out.. yet the rear seat overheads continue to burn..

Rear overhead lights are on all the time now.. worse than when I started.. they are burning full brightness while I drive down the road. They turn off only after the car is parked for 20 minutes.

Im at a loss now.. short of putting the old map lights back to incandescent I don't know how Im going to remedy this problem.

I really like the LED lighting but its turning out to be a major pain in the @$$. Ive probably wasted a good 7 hours screwing with bulbs. Ive broke at least 3 LED bulbs, broke the blades off 2 glass bulbs, and snapped the power plug clip off one of my bulb housings.

Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated because everyone just says to put a resistor, or leave an incandescent bulb on the circuit.. Ive got 5 of 7 bulbs back as incandescent and still have the rear 2 glowing full blast.
 
#15,650 ·
These damn interior lights have been tormenting me for weeks now. I replaced the map lights first with LED.. and they weren't turning off when I closed the doors on the car. They stayed on for hours.

Then I replaced the floorboard lights, this caused the rear overhead lights to start glowing full blast all the time. So to avoid draining my battery I replaced those as well with LED.. Then the tailgate light.

Now Ive tried adding resistors across the socket on a few lights, no luck, tried adding incandescent floorboard lights back.. rear lights still stay on... put the old bulb back in the tailgate.. and now Im back to just the map lights being swapped out.. yet the rear seat overheads continue to burn..

Rear overhead lights are on all the time now.. worse than when I started.. they are burning full brightness while I drive down the road. They turn off only after the car is parked for 20 minutes.

Im at a loss now.. short of putting the old map lights back to incandescent I don't know how Im going to remedy this problem.

I really like the LED lighting but its turning out to be a major pain in the @$$. Ive probably wasted a good 7 hours screwing with bulbs. Ive broke at least 3 LED bulbs, broke the blades off 2 glass bulbs, and snapped the power plug clip off one of my bulb housings.

Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated because everyone just says to put a resistor, or leave an incandescent bulb on the circuit.. Ive got 5 of 7 bulbs back as incandescent and still have the rear 2 glowing full blast.
I bought Philips LEDs from Amazon for every interior bulb and it worked great, except I had to leave an incandescent in the glove box or rear hatch to prevent the glow. Then I bought some cheap eBay T10/194/168 projector bulbs that either have a higher draw and/or are not as efficient and installed them in the glove box and rear hatch and the glow is now gone--finally. So now I have LEDs all around. Plus, the projector LED in the rear hatch really adds a lot more light back there.

Here are the ones I purchased on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262241129374

I would recommend going the same route. I am not sure what LEDs you have been using, but you can eliminate the glow on most of them by just leaving an incandescent in the glove or hatch. If that doesn't work, you may want to try other LEDs. Again, the Philips worked for me so you may want to try those.
 
#15,654 ·
-Syntax- said:
These damn interior lights have been tormenting me for weeks now. I replaced the map lights first with LED.. and they weren't turning off when I closed the doors on the car. They stayed on for hours. Then I replaced the floorboard lights, this caused the rear overhead lights to start glowing full blast all the time. So to avoid draining my battery I replaced those as well with LED.. Then the tailgate light. Now Ive tried adding resistors across the socket on a few lights, no luck, tried adding incandescent floorboard lights back.. rear lights still stay on... put the old bulb back in the tailgate.. and now Im back to just the map lights being swapped out.. yet the rear seat overheads continue to burn.. Rear overhead lights are on all the time now.. worse than when I started.. they are burning full brightness while I drive down the road. They turn off only after the car is parked for 20 minutes. Im at a loss now.. short of putting the old map lights back to incandescent I don't know how Im going to remedy this problem. I really like the LED lighting but its turning out to be a major pain in the @$$. Ive probably wasted a good 7 hours screwing with bulbs. Ive broke at least 3 LED bulbs, broke the blades off 2 glass bulbs, and snapped the power plug clip off one of my bulb housings. Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated because everyone just says to put a resistor, or leave an incandescent bulb on the circuit.. Ive got 5 of 7 bulbs back as incandescent and still have the rear 2 glowing full blast.
Was this a kit? Couldn't you just return it?
Mine was a kit for 08-10 wk, was like $26
No resistors, just swap them out. Only problem was with the license plates, as with the gate closing they would shake a little loose. So I swapped those back.
7 hours of your time seems crazy.

2010 WK North Edition 5.7 Hemi, QT2, loaded Black WK #102
 
#15,655 ·
I finally beat the LED's. Apparently the Map lights in the front have some control over all the other lights. I added and removed bulbs several times with no change in results, the only bulbs I never pulled back out were the front map lights.

I pulled them out and soldered a 560ohm resistor across the back of the board of each bulb. As soon as I snapped them back in I was able to add all the other lights back without glow. I noticed after adding the resistor that the light responded a lot quicker on and off.

It must be something to do with wire length, or maybe that they are first in the series of lights. Because adding a load on those bulbs fixed it. I saw some of the kits that advertised as canbus compatible had a big heatsink on the back of the board, which I thought was weird because leds dont generate much if any heat. So I started wondering if there was a resistor on the back that generated heat, which is why they have a heatsink on them. Or maybe the heatsink itself across the back created some kind of load.

Reguardless, adding the resistor fixed it. I tried adding the resistor to the light socket elsewhere in the car.. didnt work.. guess it has to be the front map lights. I added a resistor to both of them in the front. Dont know if just 1 would fix it.
 
#15,657 ·
I suppose its too late for a pic... don't want you to tear it all apart for one.
 
#15,656 ·
Bright LEDs do, in fact, generate a lot of heat. Heat is hugely detrimental to LEDs. The resistors used with LED circuits don't create much heat.

That's interesting how that turned out for you. I guess I got lucky buy purchasing the map lights for CANBUS and the rest were all standard.
 
#15,658 ·
Tightened the E20 bolt on the steering yolk near the oil filter and go that dang "pop" to go away upon acceleration. I have been to the dealership and two other mechanics who had no idea what the issue was. Leave it to this forum to solve yet another issue. I had to remove skid plate and find the bolt with my fingers since it can't be seen from the top or bottom of the vehicle (08 XK 4.7). Got a ton of grease up to both elbows because oil residue from a previous leak was still all over the place.
Also, I'm on my second oil consumption test since the PCV valve was replaced on Monday. I take it back at 1000 miles and see what the consumption was. Last time it was taking over 2 quarts in 1000 miles. 700 more to go on this one. FCA may be on the hook for a new engine if it is still eating oil. Do I hope for a new engine? Never know how things like that turn out.
 
#15,659 ·
FINALLY found another lifted wk tonight! I was driving to Walmart and it was fueling up, and i was like "eh, I can put a few dollars in the tank" (mainly just not wanting to the weird guy who pulls up beside him to talk about his rig). Then as he is about to get in his jeep I commented that he had a nice jeep and it was nice seeing another lifted wk, and what does he reply in return you may ask? "Yeah I keep it clean" and a weird laugh like I just asked him out and he drives off.... My excitement turned into like wtf? Did I have something in my teeth? Or maybe he was like damn....his is better :laugh:
 
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#15,660 ·
Sheepdog, that is funny. I had similar experience with a guy who has another lifted XK, not many around here. I pulled next to him at a store we were both at and said, "Nice Commander". At first he looked at me like I was some kind of weirdo then replied, "Damn, yours is bigger than mine!" We had a good laugh and then proceeded to talk Jeeps.
 
#15,664 ·
Got Some new shoes. I had 235 70 17 on it when I bought it and decided that they made the Jeep look a little anemic. So I replaced them with 155 70 17's and I think it looks much better. I still gotta get it lifted a couple inches at some time in the future.

I also replaced the front anti rattle clips. I'm not sure why they started to rattle. It just had a new brake job when I purchased it back in January. But sometime in late march they started to rattle and I have just been putting up with it for over a month. I have a feeling when the brake job was done, the mechanic didn't put the new clips in. But I'm not sure. But at least it doesn't sound like a rattle box when I roll down a bumpy street anymore. :laugh2:
 

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#15,668 ·
I enjoy this forum and this tread in particular but this quote really does not belong here. As a former "dimwitted moron" I can tell you that I started investigations and found more than one stolen car, motorcycle or trailer only because they did not have a license plate . I'm not sure if you think he/she is dimwitted because this is why you were pulled over or because of other actions taken during the stop. The fact that you said were were pulled over and didn't mention getting a citation or arrested leads me to believe that you were set free after showing proof of ownership. So even a "dimwitted moron" made a good decision after seeing you were the owner.
As this is a jeep thread, I will only remark this one time on this quote and will not respond in any way to any further comments made. In these tough days for law enforcement I feel obligated to stand up for them when they may not otherwise be around. If I face any discipline regarding this reply I will take it and not complain.

Just remember, this "dimwitted moron" may save your life or the life your loved ones one day!
 
#15,667 ·
200,000 mile maint

@ 200,535 miles

New f&r brake pads, didn't need 'em but with 120,000 on 'em I figured it was time to put new ones on.

Changed trans oil & filter.

Changed x-case oil.

Was gonna do f&r diff oil but misplaced the friction modifier.

New tires, tpms, and 5th windshield next week.
 
#15,685 ·
#15,679 ·
Be careful with those flip keys--especially if you've had the ignition recall on your WK.

I was using a flip key and the torque required to turn the key twisted the key and it jammed in the ignition. I was afraid it was going to get stuck and break off in the ignition, but fortunately I was able to use a pliers and very carefully somewhat straighten it out and remove it.

YMMV, but I would recommend staying away from the flip keys--especially if your ignition requires any significant force to turn. The key part is just not as solid as the OEM one-piece key. I am back to a straight key fob--for good.
 
#15,681 ·
Be careful with those flip keys--especially if you've had the ignition recall on your WK.

I was using a flip key and the torque required to turn the key twisted the key and it jammed in the ignition. I was afraid it was going to get stuck and break off in the ignition, but fortunately I was able to use a pliers and very carefully somewhat straighten it out and remove it.

YMMV, but I would recommend staying away from the flip keys--especially if your ignition requires any significant force to turn. The key part is just not as solid as the OEM one-piece key. I am back to a straight key fob--for good.
Oooo, I never even thought of that... good point, thanks for the heads up.
 
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