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Dont you love when even with a pull through people cant park between the lines? Jeez. My biggest pet peeve. Lol. Your jeep's looking sick!eggink1 said:Went "stocking" today. Happened to park next to another silver WK today.
I bought Philips LEDs from Amazon for every interior bulb and it worked great, except I had to leave an incandescent in the glove box or rear hatch to prevent the glow. Then I bought some cheap eBay T10/194/168 projector bulbs that either have a higher draw and/or are not as efficient and installed them in the glove box and rear hatch and the glow is now gone--finally. So now I have LEDs all around. Plus, the projector LED in the rear hatch really adds a lot more light back there.These damn interior lights have been tormenting me for weeks now. I replaced the map lights first with LED.. and they weren't turning off when I closed the doors on the car. They stayed on for hours.
Then I replaced the floorboard lights, this caused the rear overhead lights to start glowing full blast all the time. So to avoid draining my battery I replaced those as well with LED.. Then the tailgate light.
Now Ive tried adding resistors across the socket on a few lights, no luck, tried adding incandescent floorboard lights back.. rear lights still stay on... put the old bulb back in the tailgate.. and now Im back to just the map lights being swapped out.. yet the rear seat overheads continue to burn..
Rear overhead lights are on all the time now.. worse than when I started.. they are burning full brightness while I drive down the road. They turn off only after the car is parked for 20 minutes.
Im at a loss now.. short of putting the old map lights back to incandescent I don't know how Im going to remedy this problem.
I really like the LED lighting but its turning out to be a major pain in the @$$. Ive probably wasted a good 7 hours screwing with bulbs. Ive broke at least 3 LED bulbs, broke the blades off 2 glass bulbs, and snapped the power plug clip off one of my bulb housings.
Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated because everyone just says to put a resistor, or leave an incandescent bulb on the circuit.. Ive got 5 of 7 bulbs back as incandescent and still have the rear 2 glowing full blast.
Is that a Carolina driveline shaftOut with the old...
View attachment 2853089
and in with the new.
No more drive line Vibrations! :highfive:
Was this a kit? Couldn't you just return it?-Syntax- said:These damn interior lights have been tormenting me for weeks now. I replaced the map lights first with LED.. and they weren't turning off when I closed the doors on the car. They stayed on for hours. Then I replaced the floorboard lights, this caused the rear overhead lights to start glowing full blast all the time. So to avoid draining my battery I replaced those as well with LED.. Then the tailgate light. Now Ive tried adding resistors across the socket on a few lights, no luck, tried adding incandescent floorboard lights back.. rear lights still stay on... put the old bulb back in the tailgate.. and now Im back to just the map lights being swapped out.. yet the rear seat overheads continue to burn.. Rear overhead lights are on all the time now.. worse than when I started.. they are burning full brightness while I drive down the road. They turn off only after the car is parked for 20 minutes. Im at a loss now.. short of putting the old map lights back to incandescent I don't know how Im going to remedy this problem. I really like the LED lighting but its turning out to be a major pain in the @$$. Ive probably wasted a good 7 hours screwing with bulbs. Ive broke at least 3 LED bulbs, broke the blades off 2 glass bulbs, and snapped the power plug clip off one of my bulb housings. Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated because everyone just says to put a resistor, or leave an incandescent bulb on the circuit.. Ive got 5 of 7 bulbs back as incandescent and still have the rear 2 glowing full blast.
Where did you get that!?!? I liked my Mazda key that was like that and I need to replace a button pad anyway...
Walmart cuts keysNot the same source as mine but you'll find a bunch on eBay. Easy to switch out the guts of your current fob but you do need a good locksmith to cut the new key. But worth the hassle imo.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Flip-Key-Fob-Keyless-Entry-Remote-Combo-4-Buttons-For-Dodge-Jeep-Chrysler-/131326990012?hash=item1e93b2d6bc:g:3i0AAOSwLVZVuxdQ&vxp=mtr
Oooo, I never even thought of that... good point, thanks for the heads up.Be careful with those flip keys--especially if you've had the ignition recall on your WK.
I was using a flip key and the torque required to turn the key twisted the key and it jammed in the ignition. I was afraid it was going to get stuck and break off in the ignition, but fortunately I was able to use a pliers and very carefully somewhat straighten it out and remove it.
YMMV, but I would recommend staying away from the flip keys--especially if your ignition requires any significant force to turn. The key part is just not as solid as the OEM one-piece key. I am back to a straight key fob--for good.