What did you do to your WK/XK today? - Page 1131 - JeepForum.com
 531Likes
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16951 of 17029 Old 08-21-2017, 05:41 AM
TwoBobsKJ
Registered User
2003 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern
Posts: 856
Quote:
Originally Posted by caddydaddy View Post
I took it wheeling at the Ocean State Jeep Fest. My 6 & 8 year old kids had a great time going on the trail!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ah83kde_tI

That's awesome! Love the kids' commentary - "The Jeep is never gonna get stuck, right Dad...?"

What a great day together


Bob

caddydaddy likes this.

2003 Renegade, Black
- 3.7L, 42RLE, 4.10's, ARB Bull Bar, Smittybilt XRC 9500lb Winch, 4X Guard Trans skid, Skid Row Engine skid, Factory T-case & Tank skids, Custom BoulderBars, JBA Front Coilovers, OME 948 rear springs, Bilstein rear shocks, JBA A-Arms, Moabs with Goodyear Duratracs 265/70-16
TwoBobsKJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #16952 of 17029 Old 08-21-2017, 08:35 PM
Racer-X
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North
Posts: 116
We drove Sir, our 2006 Commander, up to Blue Ridge Georgia today to watch the total eclipse.

Along the way, I made some tests/observations with my OBD-II dongle and Torque Pro. I was checking IAT with my nearly complete (not quite 100% insulated yet) stock air cleaner housing "cold air intake" plumbing. The results are impressive. I'm running with IAT readings of ambient temp plus about five degrees F. After parking for 15-30 minutes, with a full heat soak, I was reading 150℉ or higher (we made three stops total on the trip) when I restarted the engine. That dropped fairly quickly, even in stop-and-go traffic, and in less than 5 miles at over 35MPH, it was back to IAT readings about ten degrees F over ambient temperature, and it dropped slowly after that, eventually getting under five degrees F over ambient.

I also discovered that my fan clutch is completely useless. Engine coolant temp ran around 200℉ +/- 5℉ when moving 35MPH or faster, but when stuck in stop-and-go traffic, ECT was creeping up, hitting about 215℉ in traffic. When I got home, I tested the fan clutch by trying to stop the fan with a cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels. I was able to stop the fan quite quickly with the cardboard tube, and after it was stopped, when I pulled the cardboard tube away, the fan sat stationary for several seconds before it started to slowly spin up.

I'll be checking to see if my factory electric fan is up to specification and operating as designed. If it is, I'm going to be looking for a better electric fan that can keep the thing cool and stable at 200℉ at a crawl, or in stop-and-go traffic. I've got some ideas for upgrades, if that proves to be necessary.

I'm pretty sure I won't be putting the mechanical fan back on. If it's not spinning now, putting a new clutch on will definitely hit my fuel economy when the new clutch is actually spinning the fan up. I'd rather find an electric fan setup that works for "normal driving" (without towing any trailer). I'll keep the fan clutch and mechanical fan for towing, but I'll leave it off for every-day driving without a trailer.

I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why my position is correct.
Racer-X is offline  
post #16953 of 17029 Old 08-22-2017, 07:00 PM
90grandoneer
Moderator
 
90grandoneer's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: City of Trees
Posts: 3,111
Yes, for sure your clutch unit on the fan is toast. Years ago I had that happen once in the middle of no where with my GMC truck and camper. I ended up pulling the fan clutch off and beating the crap out of the front of it with a hammer until it was completely locked up. Put it back on and drove on. Wow, did it make noise when it was all locked up all the time. What's happening with yours is also exactly why I changed the clutch system on the old Benz over to the electric fans. I say do it, and if you want, put over-ride switches on both fans so you can activate whenever you want in addition to the automatic settings you program for them. That would be the best of all worlds, IMO.
badgerwithhands likes this.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
90grandoneer is offline  
 
post #16954 of 17029 Old 08-22-2017, 07:43 PM
Racer-X
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North
Posts: 116
@90grandoneer ,

I do plan on electric fans. First I plan some diagnosis and analysis of the current electric fan. It seems Chrysler/Jeep thought the electric fan alone was sufficient for the 3.7L V6 and the 4.7L V8 without the tow package. The Tow package (which Sir has on his equipment list) includes "heavy duty engine cooling" which is the mechanical fan and fan clutch.

I have another thread running here about removing the mechanical fan and fan clutch and going with only the stock electric fan.

I'm doing water pump, coolant, thermostat, radiator cap, serpentine belt, tensioner, etc. etc. This weekend. My plan is to leave off the mechanical fan and clutch when I'm not towing (I tow a trailer that's close to max capacity for ours a few times a year).

The mechanical fan on these 4.7L V8's looks to be over 10,000CFM at 2500-3000 RPMs at full clutch engagement. Actually, I haven't fully run the numbers, but it looks to be around 12,000CFM. That's great for towing.

The electric fan has the appearance of one that pulls maybe 2,000CFM (maybe a little less than that). Does anyone know the actual CFM rating of the stock electric fan? It seems barely adequate for cooling the beast lugging around 5000 pounds (just the Jeep itself, no trailer). If mine is not at peak operating condition, I'll repair/restore it and do more observations.

Otherwise, if it's truly inadequate for the task, I've been looking at three different options to replace the stock electric fan with something stronger. The "junk yard find" is rated around 5,000CFM. I think I have a few of those available at a "pull your own parts" yard not far away. They are dual two speed (three wire) fans that will easily wire to the existing wiring in the Commander. I think the electrical connector plugs right in because it's another Mopar that I'm getting the fans from.

The other options are new aftermarket "universal" fans. There's a single fan with shroud that's about the diameter of the stock electric fan, but a little deeper, with sharper pitch to the fan blades that's rated at 3,300CFM, and there's a pair of slightly smaller fans that should fit that pull 4,600CFM. Any of those will be an upgrade to the current electric fan, and should be adequate for everything except towing.

I'll be keeping the stock "heavy duty engine cooling" mechanical fan and fully functional fan clutch for when I know I'll be towing a trailer. No electric fan comes anywhere near even a small mechanical fan driven by a fan clutch. I won't even pretend that any electric fan setup is adequate for the stress of towing a trailer.

I'm not arguing, I'm just explaining why my position is correct.
Racer-X is offline  
post #16955 of 17029 Old 08-23-2017, 03:34 PM
rhelgason
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hafnarfjordur
Posts: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brill
Installed a bunch of new stuff today - 4xguard side guards/sliders, belly guard, all the OEM skid plates, and added 1/4" front strut spacers to try to offset some of the additional weight.
Looking good

Jeep is the life and life is a jeeping
rhelgason is offline  
post #16956 of 17029 Old 08-23-2017, 03:42 PM
rhelgason
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hafnarfjordur
Posts: 142
Name:  image-3887152111.jpg
Views: 102
Size:  651.2 KB

After the lift ❤️
bensylrm likes this.

Jeep is the life and life is a jeeping
rhelgason is offline  
post #16957 of 17029 Old 08-23-2017, 10:22 PM
badgerwithhands
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 250
Garage
Removed my turbo because of an oil leak. Damned bolts loosened up. I just re-did all of that 6 months ago. Added a little blue thread locker this time.

07 WK Overland CRD, cargo LEDs, OME HD, MOPAR skids, rack,
future mods: tires, lights, CB, skids,
badgerwithhands is offline  
post #16958 of 17029 Old 08-24-2017, 08:19 AM
90grandoneer
Moderator
 
90grandoneer's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: City of Trees
Posts: 3,111
Hey, badgerwithhands, I don't know if you've seen this video on Nord-Lock Wedge Washers, but this may help with your problem. After having bolt loosening problems with the headers on my 5.7, I discovered these and it has cured the bolt loosening problem. You may want to examine the possibility.

Chirpz and Clarkyau like this.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
90grandoneer is offline  
post #16959 of 17029 Old 08-25-2017, 07:31 AM
WickedWylee
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 3
Garage
Started the Jeep up after sitting for a few days, and noticed it was running pretty rough. At first my scanner didn't show any codes, but after a min or two of idling it threw a p0305. I pulled the coil pack for cylinder 5 and the bottom of the boot was charred and burnt. It actually had a burn hole through the boot! I'd upload a pic but my post count is too low. You can check out the damage here:
imgur.com/f20E4d5 and imgur.com/UYxwfwJ

I pulled the spark plug out and the ceramic white part had a long black crack in it from top to bottom. The bottom of the ceramic was burnt so bad it discolored to orange and black. Sooooo I guess its time to replace all of the coil packs, plugs, and wires. I bought the wk at 155k miles, and currently sits at 160k. I'm not sure if the plugs have ever been replaced because the electrodes are pretty much non existent lol. Gonna be a huge increase in performance after this.
WickedWylee is offline  
post #16960 of 17029 Old 08-25-2017, 07:54 AM
PolkaPower
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 21,035
I used Sultans of Spark coils packs that grandoneer recommended.
They produce a much hotter spark and you can open up your plug gap quite a bit more.
PolkaPower is online now  
post #16961 of 17029 Old 08-25-2017, 04:17 PM
90grandoneer
Moderator
 
90grandoneer's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: City of Trees
Posts: 3,111
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I used Sultans of Spark coils packs that grandoneer recommended.
They produce a much hotter spark and you can open up your plug gap quite a bit more.
Yes, I'd highly recommend them. I have found, with my somewhat modified Hemi, that I can't run the spark plug gaps at .065 in. like they recommend. When I do, I get wide open throttle high RPM (maybe 5800-6200 RPM) spark blow out. Running the plugs at .060 in. gap works fine though. I may have to reduce the gap a little more with the new heads and a little higher compression.

http://www.tricktuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6

"If you are getting spark blow out at high rpm and wide open throttle this can be caused by too much boost, too big of a spark plug gap, too lean or rich of an AFR, or low compression. Many times an aftermarket ignition can clear up the spark blow out by increasing the voltage for a more powerful spark. If not, tighten the gap up."

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, Transgo Shift Kit, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
90grandoneer is offline  
post #16962 of 17029 Old 08-25-2017, 05:50 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 21,035
I gapped mine to 60 not 65 like they recommend. Just incase.
PolkaPower is online now  
post #16963 of 17029 Old 08-26-2017, 12:32 AM
gcjeepjames
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryton View Post
Never thought to do this. Do you have a link to where you done the mod please? Thanks
Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the process but it's relatively intuitive to do.
gcjeepjames is offline  
post #16964 of 17029 Old 08-26-2017, 11:35 AM
631GCLaredo
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Commack
Posts: 14
New water pump, thermostat, lower radiator hose and coolant flush.
My engine was squealing at 126,000, it was the water pump bearing was worn and leaking a little. I got the parts online, from RockAuto. Mopar for the thermostat and hose and I went with Cardone Select for the pump.

2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo X, Mineral Gray metallic, gray leather, Quad Trac 1.
631GCLaredo is offline  
post #16965 of 17029 Old 08-26-2017, 01:50 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 21,035
Does anyone know how to turn off the alarm?
I pulled the horn fuse until I figure it out.
Neither key will turn it off.
I've tried with the fob, key in Ignition, and door lock. Nothing works.
I was using the spare and the alarm triggered.

Sent from my GRACE using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
Almost ran out of gas today SYCOHEMI WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum 45 12-20-2016 08:08 PM
Got a 95 GC today colby72olds ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 2 06-20-2010 06:34 PM
got my 94 ZJ today, and did my first mod Saleen4971 ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 10 09-22-2009 12:52 AM
sad day, today cyberbrain ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 21 02-06-2008 09:32 PM
Hey, Today is 5.9 day! CAHotRodBoy ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 5 05-09-2005 09:35 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome