What did you do to your WK/XK today? - Page 1102 - JeepForum.com

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post #16516 of 16530 Old 03-19-2017, 08:31 PM
Mainsail
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Puget Sound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvrdone1 View Post
mainsail: haven't seen you on the forum in quite some time - thought that maybe you had sold the wk. Ive got a 4" led mounted to the right of my hitch & plugged into the trailer plug like you describe. has worked fairly well all winter. us North West guys need to see what we're backing in to !!
Nope, still have it and it's up to 106K miles. That's not too terribly bad for a 2005 right? I drive the 1986 M1009 a lot more because of the parking at work- if someone door-dings that beast it'll do more damage to their car.

Like I said, I'll know in the morning if that's enough light. I think it will be, but I think I only spent $20 for each light bar so I wasn't expecting top-of-the-line.

As you can tell from the pics, it REALLY needs a bath; today was the first nice day since last fall though.


Poor grammar is something up with which I shall not put.

Last edited by Mainsail; 03-19-2017 at 08:35 PM. Reason: ETA
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post #16517 of 16530 Old 03-19-2017, 09:05 PM
Budasac
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Woodbridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainsail View Post
Finally finished my aux back-up lights. The visibility out the back is terrible, and I've noodled the best way to light it up back there for a long time. Now that LEDs are so inexpensive I decided to tap into the 7-pin trailer outlet; it has everything I need. There's a good 12v source, a ground, and even a reverse-light pin to trigger a relay so they'd only come on when the shift lever is in R. I do not like hacking up the sealed factory wiring, and was not enthusiastic about tearing the interior out to run wires for a switch.

I considered mounting the LED light bars to the rear 4XGuard skid, but I wanted it to be portable to use on either jeep and remove when it's not needed (carwash etc.)

So I picked up a Smitybuilt Beaver Step to mount the lights to. Now that my drillpress is up and running I was able to get nice straight holes for the mounts.

Next up is the wiring. The first two pictures show what I did. I dremeled the mounting tab and corners off a relay so that it would fit inside the 7-pin trailer plug. It's a tight squeeze and I had to solder the wires to the relay tabs- blade connectors weren't going to fit.

The rest of the pictures show the finished product. Tomorrow morning I'll know if the cheap LED light bars I bought are bright enough.

I still need to do two things to be completely finished. Right now the light bars are grounded to the skid plate- I want to move the ground inside the plug to the trailer ground so that it's completely portable. Then I will fill the trailer plug with RTV to seal it all up.
Nice job on the lights. 👍 Very clean looking.

Just curious though, why bother with the relay? You're auxiliary lights are no different then trailer lights.
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post #16518 of 16530 Old 03-19-2017, 09:12 PM
Mainsail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
Nice job on the lights. 👍 Very clean looking.

Just curious though, why bother with the relay? Your auxiliary lights are no different than trailer lights.
Thanks. I'm not sure what you're saying. The relay makes the lights come on when the gearshift lever is moved to Reverse. I didn't want to put much draw on the actual taillight circuit- the relay allows me to utilize the dedicated 12v aux circuit to power the lights.

Poor grammar is something up with which I shall not put.
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post #16519 of 16530 Old 03-19-2017, 11:43 PM
underscore
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2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
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The reverse pin in the trailer connector should already be able to drive backup lights on a trailer directly, so you shouldn't need the relay.

I wonder if anyone makes an LED pod that would plug into the trailer harness and fit into the receiver directly? It'd probably have cooling problems in there though.

2007 WK CRD QDII
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post #16520 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 08:55 AM
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: The Abyss
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Waiting on my "fastman" ported throttle body delivery today.
Getting all of the easy bolt on hp mods out of the way before I dig into a cam and headers.
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post #16521 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 03:37 PM
PolkaPower
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Location: The Abyss
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Throttle body from The Fastman arrived. Time to install it!
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ForumRunner_20170320_143657.jpg   ForumRunner_20170320_143706.jpg   ForumRunner_20170320_143714.jpg  
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post #16522 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 05:13 PM
Mainsail
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Puget Sound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
The reverse pin in the trailer connector should already be able to drive backup lights on a trailer directly, so you shouldn't need the relay.
In this case it's probably overkill as the cheap LED bars aren't pulling much more power than a couple incandescent bulbs, however if I decide to go brighter, and I probably will, I'd rather have it.

That said, the cheap light bars are not too bad. I can see out the back much better.

Poor grammar is something up with which I shall not put.
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post #16523 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 07:40 PM
UnboundWK
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Location: Roseville
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Well not today, but over the last couple weeks i have done a few things. Mainly just cleaning as it sat for a few months while i replaced the engine. After that i installed new headlight and fog light housings. I also installed a light bar with switch panel, rockers and plastidip'd the badges. Next up is rebuild the front end, Full brake system up front(rebuild calipers, rotors and pads).

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post #16524 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 07:51 PM
PolkaPower
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Difference in bore.
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post #16525 of 16530 Old 03-20-2017, 08:37 PM
underscore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainsail View Post
That said, the cheap light bars are not too bad. I can see out the back much better.
Good to know, I think the one I have is the same (I only have one for now though) but I haven't had a chance to put it on yet. At present I may as well not have a rear view mirror at night.

2007 WK CRD QDII
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post #16526 of 16530 Old 03-21-2017, 08:50 AM
T1m
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Location: Kenner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnboundWK View Post
Well not today, but over the last couple weeks i have done a few things. Mainly just cleaning as it sat for a few months while i replaced the engine. After that i installed new headlight and fog light housings. I also installed a light bar with switch panel, rockers and plastidip'd the badges. Next up is rebuild the front end, Full brake system up front(rebuild calipers, rotors and pads).

The badges look great! I bought some plasti-dip to do mine but I chickened out. My WK looks just like yours and you may have just settled my internal argument with myself.
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post #16527 of 16530 Old 03-21-2017, 02:48 PM
PolkaPower
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Just ordered this wideband
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post #16528 of 16530 Old 03-21-2017, 08:52 PM
Luther9351
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NEW FLORENCE
Posts: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower
Difference in bore.
What exactly would this do?
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post #16529 of 16530 Old Yesterday, 12:19 AM
UnboundWK
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Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by T1m View Post
The badges look great! I bought some plasti-dip to do mine but I chickened out. My WK looks just like yours and you may have just settled my internal argument with myself.
its super simple. Just take your time and dont rush. Spray a light coat wait about 30 min and do another. Do as many as you need to get good even coverage. Make sure you mask off around the area you are painting, but you dont need to mask of each individual letter. So if you mask a square off around the emblem and you can just peel off the excess and it will stay on the badge. Here are some pictures i took while i did it. When you are done, use a tooth pick to get the pieces out of the middle the letters that are tough to get.




T1m and underscore like this.
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post #16530 of 16530 Old Yesterday, 09:26 AM
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luther9351 View Post
What exactly would this do?
It's a larger bore so it lets air in faster, improves flow/throttle response.
It's a good addition if you are doing headers, cam, tune, exhaust, etc.
Not recommended for stock.
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