Upper Control Arms: JBA or RRO? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 35 Old 01-19-2014, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
DK2005WK
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Upper Control Arms: JBA or RRO?

Hello,

Can anyone explain the difference between the two? I'm leaning towards RRO UCA's simply because of the price difference. But it doesn't say if it was made to fit stock or lifted WK's? Whereas JBA, has one specifically made for lifted WK's? TIA...

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post #2 of 35 Old 01-19-2014, 06:01 AM
sk1er18
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Both are made for lifted.

JBA arms use XK/WK control arm bushings whereas RRO use KJ bushings.



The JBA arms are made to the correct span (same as OEM arms). The RRO arms take a bit of finesse to install. My first set of RRO arms were about 1/4" less in span than whats pictured below and resulted in the bushings separating and the control arm rubbing on the unibody which made a horrible noise. RRO sent me a replacement set so +1 for customer service; but they still weren't as wide as they should be.



I recommend JBA arms. $.02

-Matt
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post #3 of 35 Old 01-19-2014, 10:26 AM
giulio17
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I'm so happy I got jba
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post #4 of 35 Old 01-19-2014, 01:52 PM
SSF556
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JBA no doubts

Silver WK Club Member #1
2008 CRD QT2
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post #5 of 35 Old 01-19-2014, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
DK2005WK
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Thanks for the input! Looks like I'll save up and go with JBA too.
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post #6 of 35 Old 01-20-2014, 11:34 AM
OttawaJeepClub
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I couldn't decide either. I ended up with the JBA. well made product and the support after I bought it was excellent.
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post #7 of 35 Old 01-20-2014, 01:10 PM
ca07wk
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I have the RRO and I have no issues or complaints. Valpacer also runs RRO UCAs.

Crawl-Offroad.com-Boycott Paved Roads
2006 WK Limited Modified QT2
OME HD/RRO UCA/Wrangler MTRs on Moabs/JKS Rear Discos/Steel Armadillo Skids, Sliders,Front Shackles,Antenna Mount/Crawl Rear Skid
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post #8 of 35 Old 01-22-2014, 06:54 AM
christiang26
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I am having problems with my RRO, you can see in the picture that the bushing is coming out and it is making a awful grinding sound
Attached Images
   
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post #9 of 35 Old 01-22-2014, 07:00 AM
sk1er18
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That was the same problem I had. There were two places where my arms were metal on metal. The first is the bushing separates so the outer metal ring of the bushing that rotates with the arm was actually touching the body and grinding into it.

The other place it was interfering was the arm itself was touching the body; you can see where the paint is worn away in the pictures below.

RRO sent me replacement arms which were wider... you might want to contact them.



Picture with the replacement arms




-Matt
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post #10 of 35 Old 01-22-2014, 07:06 AM
christiang26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18
That was the same problem I had. There were two places where my arms were metal on metal. The first is the bushing separates so the outer metal ring of the bushing that rotates with the arm was actually touching the body and grinding into it. The other place it was interfering was the arm itself was touching the body; you can see where the paint is worn away in the pictures below. RRO sent me replacement arms which were wider... you might want to contact them. Picture with the replacement arms
I talked with them yesterday, and they just said that I need to take them out, put the bushing back in and put some grease to help the squeak
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post #11 of 35 Old 01-22-2014, 07:19 AM
sk1er18
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They said that to me at first too until I explained to them the bushing itself was damaged/separating and that the noise was metal on metal, not the squeaking sound of an un-greased bushing.

It took a few E-mails but was eventually contacted by their operations manager. He was surprised to see such a deviation in the arms; probably the reason I had the issue but others haven't, those arms were made via the same process so I ended up with a set that hit the low end of the tolerance. I wouldn't be surprised if they make some adjustments to their fixture to prevent this.

That 1/4" made a huge difference when installing the arms and how the bushings looked after being torqued down.

-Matt
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post #12 of 35 Old 01-22-2014, 07:26 AM
christiang26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18
They said that to me at first too until I explained to them the bushing itself was damaged/separating and that the noise was metal on metal, not the squeaking sound of an un-greased bushing. It took a few E-mails but was eventually contacted by their operations manager. He was surprised to see such a deviation in the arms; probably the reason I had the issue but others haven't, those arms were made via the same process so I ended up with a set that hit the low end of the tolerance. I wouldn't be surprised if they make some adjustments to their fixture to prevent this. That 1/4" made a huge difference when installing the arms and how the bushings looked after being torqued down.
I just send them another email explaining that is a metal on metal grinding noise
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post #13 of 35 Old 04-18-2014, 04:29 PM
HEMI35
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you got RRO quality

get your money back and instead get these prerunner style UCAS for the WK

http://american-motorsports.net/?pag...suspensionId=6

HEMI35
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post #14 of 35 Old 04-18-2014, 06:03 PM
ChiliPepperXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMI35 View Post
you got RRO quality

get your money back and instead get these prerunner style UCAS for the WK

http://american-motorsports.net/?pag...suspensionId=6
Those bad boys must cost one their first child!
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post #15 of 35 Old 04-18-2014, 06:13 PM
ca07wk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliPepperXJ View Post

Those bad boys must cost one their first child!
Those are pretty sweet, and those guys are right down the street. I wonder if they'd be interested in extended movement tie rod ends, upper and lower rear control arm.

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