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Unread 07-27-2015, 07:17 PM   #1
Billmild
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Undercarriage Picture request

I'm looking to see other undercarriages. My car seems to have a lot of rust on any exposed steel parts, and some on the corners of places under the car. I also noticed the skid plates are very rusty looking. Is this typical?

The joys of buying a used car.

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Unread 07-28-2015, 04:33 AM   #2
caulk04
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What year? Where did it come from?

Min has spent all of it's 7 years in a rust/salt area but has been garage kept it's whole life and since I bought it in '13 has been cleaned and treated with rust proofing every year. Same vehicle that hasn't been treated or garage kept will be much more rusty. Think 'rode hard and put away wet'.
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Unread 07-28-2015, 05:25 AM   #3
ggrassmid
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I didn't really take any before shots... but I spent a long weekend painting chassis saver over the entire bottom of mine; at least everything I could take off and reach with a brush. It wasn't fun, nor something I would want to repeat. But since I want to do a little more off-roading around Michigan, I figured it would be good to do since I'll be going through a lot of mud, plus the salt and winter crap I drive in also. I have an unlimited carwash pass and usually go through about 3-4 times a week in the summer, and every day in the winter to try and keep it cleaned off.
tank-skid-plate-1.jpg   tank-skid-coated.jpg   chassis-coated.jpg   chassis-coated-tank-area.jpg  
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Unread 07-28-2015, 06:17 AM   #4
caulk04
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That's good work, very labor intensive! The problem areas on any vehicle aren't the ones you can see though, that's why it's so important to get all the junk out of all the crevices and get it coated with something. Any rust prone area should have no shortage of shops doing 'oil' undercoating. A very popular one around here is a mix of bar&chain oil and fluid film brand coating. I personally do it myself with aerosol cans of a product called LPS-3. It goes on pretty light but dries very waxy and lasts all the way to the next year in all but the most severely blasted areas.

Anywhere you see two panels meet, a joint, a corner or a hole; that's where you need to take special care.
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Unread 07-28-2015, 06:43 AM   #5
ggrassmid
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I did use the Eastwood Internal Frame Rail Coating as well. I only got 1 good heavy coat of the Eastwood on (4 cans). The Chassis Saver I used up an entire gallon with 3 heavy coats on with a brush. They recommend 3-4 coats for the whole gallon (400 sq ft). Hopefully it holds up as well as the reviews. Some of the insulation/heat shielding was held on by stuff I didn't want to mess with taking off; but all the skids came off, spare tire, bumpers removed, and fuel tank dropped and coated as well (CRDs have a steel tank). I would like to use POR15s tank sealer next year, but we'll see how things go. I have front drivetrain and suspension work I'd like to get done first. I did use a 3-inch brush to make it go a little faster, so some places didn't get coated, like the ends of the sway bar link in the picture. All the important places I wanted coated are coated well; rockers and inside bottom of doors and door sills got 4 coats on them; over top the factory paint also.

When I prepped for Chassis Saver; I used POR15 cleaner degreaser several times; not fun laying on your back in the driveway spraying the bottom with hose and cold water. Once I felt it was cleaned well, I used the POR15 metal prep. This is supposed to somewhat etch the metal if it is smooth, plus with some factory coating still on in places, I wanted to make sure it all stuck and didn't just flake off later. I have a SS flag mount attached the the front hood mount. I painted that without doing the prep work and/or scuff it up since it was pretty smooth, and the CS is flaking off of that already from mounting and unmounting my flag.
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Unread 07-28-2015, 08:24 PM   #6
Billmild
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Do you by chance have any before pics?

The car came from Vermont. It appears to have had a factory undercoat of some sort. It is now flaking off.
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Unread 07-28-2015, 08:33 PM   #7
kwikrnu
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My 2007 has no rust after 145k miles in tennessee
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Unread 07-29-2015, 04:22 AM   #8
caulk04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikrnu View Post
My 2007 has no rust after 145k miles in tennessee
Well, yeah.
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Unread 07-29-2015, 05:57 AM   #9
ggrassmid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billmild View Post
Do you by chance have any before pics?

The car came from Vermont. It appears to have had a factory undercoat of some sort. It is now flaking off.
No, sorry. I didn't get much before pictures, and that's about all I have for after pictures also. I'm not a big person to take pictures, and when the whole project took me a weekend to do, I was concentrating on getting it done as well and as quickly as possible. I got home from work, and started taking apart so I could prep that night yet. The painting took 2 days of laying on my back for almost 8-hours. Then it was put everything back together and be ready for work on time. It was crazy!

Most of the surface rust was on the frame rails, rear axle carrier, and a little bit on the rockers, but not so much I was worried they were rotted through. When I finally got under and looked, the tube where the seats mount to still has factory coating, and the tube where the spare is at still had factory coating. Overall it was in a lot better shape (other than than the fuel tank skid) than I thought it would be for having 165,000 miles. The fuel tank (steel on mine) was in better shape than others have had, but the surface rust and missing factory coating on it was really my main objective of coating everything. If people were getting fuel leaking from rusted through tanks, I wanted to stop that NOW. The rest of the bottom side was more preventative for trail riding and getting mud stuck in places most car washes won't get to. I will still need to use the hose from the house, or use a quarter car wash place to spray those places.
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Unread 07-29-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
Billmild
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That does sound like a lot of work, but worth on a car with a Diesel.

My plan was to clean up areas and paint a bit at a time. What kind of prep did you do? Degreaser or what?
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Unread 07-29-2015, 03:48 PM   #11
ggrassmid
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I followed the POR15 prep procedures.
POR15 Cleaner/Degreaser
POR15 Metal Prep
Then brushed on the Chassis Saver following those directions; coat, wait about 1hr since it was hot and humid, and start the next coat. Took me roughly 3-hours each coat of Chassis Saver. The hotter and more humid, the faster it cures.
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Unread 07-29-2015, 07:20 PM   #12
caddydaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikrnu View Post
My 2007 has no rust after 145k miles in tennessee
I bought mine in Florida, and with 165K+ miles I moved to Connecticut. After just 1 Winter in CT, I am seeing quite a bit of surface rust on lots of parts underneath!
Be grateful you don't have to deal with this salty mess! I'll be getting everything coated up before the snow starts flying again.
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