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Unread 12-11-2013, 09:01 AM   #61
paroxysym
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedlizard72 View Post
I do have a super chips but haven't use it for calibration, and I don't have the trans tuner app. I run the performance 87 tune majority of the time. Performance is good, considering it's the 4.7 and my mixed driving has been yielding mid 14's (EVIC) mpg since I got home. Best I have seen on the highway is 19. Haven't tried at stock settings yet.
gotcha. i didnt know if you did due to the fact youre running a procal when you could make the changes to the PCM with the superchips. still one of my fav jeeps lol

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Unread 12-11-2013, 12:34 PM   #62
Omelet
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Welcome back bud! Glad you're hoke safe for the holidays!
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HEMI Club Member #31 - - - JEEP Makes It, HEMI Shakes It!!!
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Unread 12-11-2013, 06:31 PM   #63
twistedlizard72
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Thanks Omelet! Unfortunately its a short R&R before I'm back in the field.

Latest additions! WHen I heard Aspen Creek was closing it's doors I immediately ordered the Front Recovery Shackle kit. Got it installed last night.







Got my transfer case fluid right today. I made the mistake of following the owners manual which said AFT+4 last time I changed it. Fluid was $14.00/quart from the dealer, it is NV 245/247/249 specific and they had plenty in stock. Smells like an ATF/Gear oil mixture and is clear.

Also am having a new Rear prop shaft built. Should be ready for pick up Monday. Going with the 1310 u-joints because they have discontinued the 1330 mount flanges, so in case something implodes, I can still get parts. More to come on that!

No news on the T-case codes. They cleared yesterday and t-case is shifting properly through all ranges. Setting the park brake before exiting the Jeep is now a religion.
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Unread 12-19-2013, 10:23 PM   #64
twistedlizard72
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Got a new driveshaft today! Unfortunately, replacing the rear was only half the problem. The driveline vibrations are much better, but without the rear shaking the front made itself known.

Built by High Desert Driveline. It uses Spicer 1310 u-joints and everything is serviceable!





Also broke 110,000 miles today.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 09:39 AM   #65
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Got a few more things done a few days ago. The biggest was the front prop shaft CV rebuild. Here is how it went.

-First had to get the thing out. To get the shaft out I had to undo the rear front diff hangar and swing the link out of the way (super lift) then was able to get the shaft forward enough to clear the cross member.



-Once out, I just used a flat screwdriver and a hammer to pry off the end cap of the CV joint. When I popped it off a bunch of water and sand came gushing out. It was pretty much destroyed.



-Next remove the C-clip and the strap on the rubber boot.



-Then the CV joint slips right off.



Here is the culprit to the failure, torn boot.



The new kit all laid out. It is the Dorman rebuild kit and ordered from Napa. It was $164, I know it is online for cheaper, but I was in a pinch for time.



-When rebuilding, the first step is to attach rubber boot side to the bearing unit.

-You must make sure the bearing unit is facing right, the face of the T-case side is machined down for a paper gasket, flat surface is forward.

-They instruct to use a liquid sealant on the flat surface. I didn't have any, but I did have RTV sealant, so laid a small bead of RTV and pressed on the cap.

I didn't use any guides to keep the holes lined up, but it might not be a bad idea.

-It fits snug and had to use a rubber mallet to get it to sit down all the way.



-Once that was on, I packed the bearings with the provided grease.

Picture after packed, also note the machined detent on the face for the paper gasket.


-Slide the new CV unit onto the shaft splines, once lined up, it took a little persuasion with the rubber mallet to get it all the way on.

-Install the C-clip.

At this point I made sure to add some more grease. A little had come out when sliding it onto the splines. I did end up using nearly the whole tube they provided.

-Install paper gasket and end cap. Again, it fits snug and took some hammering to get it seated. Hindsight Note: It might be beneficial to put a little loc-tite 518 sealer on the paper gasket. The instructions didn't call for it, and I didn't use any.

-Reinstall into Jeep. I decided to use the new bolt straps with the old bolts. The straps provided with the kit have a little more surface area, and the bolts are an allen head with no guides. Use a star or criss cross pattern when installing bolts for proper seating. I used medium strength loc-tite on all mount bolts for good measure. For those lucky enough to have the U-joint on the front Diff ('05-'06 according to manual), the mount flange bolts torque to 80 ft-lbs. For the rest of us ('07+) with a CV on the front diff, mount bolts torque to 24 ft-lbs. The mount bolts to the transfer case on all models is 24 ft-lbs.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 12:08 PM   #66
ttusqrl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedlizard72
Got a new driveshaft today! Unfortunately, replacing the rear was only half the problem. The driveline vibrations are much better, but without the rear shaking the front made itself known. Built by High Desert Driveline. It uses Spicer 1310 u-joints and everything is serviceable! Also broke 110,000 miles today.
The usual suspects for questions on this -- how much were the front and rear driveshafts and how long to put them on?

I have a bad vibration in the tunnel at 10 MPH (feels like rearward) and another at 25-30 (feels like front). It won't do it when in neutral or decelerating, only under acceleration load.

Dropped it at the dealer for two days and they couldn't figure it out. They reseated my exhaust, removed the rear shaft, checked hub bearings and CVs, checked the rear diff, etc. Couldn't find anything to point to what it was. Luckily I didn't have to pay for the onerous inspection!

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2005 WK 5.7 ORT | Mod SL (OME struts & 990s) | JBA UCAs & Discos | Saguaro Front Bumper | Warn Zeon 10s | 265/70/17 BFG TA KO | AIRAID CAI | Gibson 3" Exhaust | DiabloSport Intune | JL Stealthbox
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Unread 12-24-2013, 09:19 AM   #67
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Mine was doing the same thing, only it seemed to me it would start vibrating at a higher speed. Pretty much only under the same accelerating load. It was getting real bad there towards the end and the vibration was emitting an oscillating drone that would drive you nuts!

I think I would start with the front CV. I got mine through Napa for $164, but I did find them online for around $90. As far as time to install, I think it was about 4 hours. A good amount of time was used to figure out how to get the front prop shaft out. You can also get a whole new front prop shaft, prices seemed to range from $250-$550 depending on the source. www.indydriveshafts.com seemed to be the cheapest source.

As far as the rear goes, I had a local driveline shop build one. (High Desert Driveline, 760-244-0066) It was $550 to have it built which is way cheaper than OEM with more benefits. Lots of options to go with on the rear. You can do the local route, which may be a little more expensive, but your supporting local business, or go with a Bill's Engelwood Driveshaft, Tom Woods, or Indy Driveshafts for around $400+/-. Time to remove and replace is about an hour.

Out of curiosity, have you had your wheels balanced?
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Unread 12-24-2013, 11:22 AM   #68
ttusqrl
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So do you think the culprit of your vibration was the CV or the driveshafts?

I am 99.9% sure it isn't wheel balancing. The vibration has too high of a wavelength and really feels like it is in the tunnel. I go to get my wheels rotated and balanced for their 5k routine in about 800 miles though.

Thanks for the info! Also, do you think your shop would manufacture some more driveshafts?

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Unread 12-25-2013, 10:30 AM   #69
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I think the CV was the culprit behind the majority of vibrations. I had made up my mind that changing the rear would solve all the issues because it felt like they were coming from so far back in the chassis. After changing the rear, it was pretty obvious it was coming from the transfer case. But it sits pretty far back, so I can see where it would be hard to distinguish the two apart.

I will give the shop a hollar after we get through Christmas and ask.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 09:29 PM   #70
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Hey there!

I'm local to you and am having some of the same trans-symptoms as you.

Could you pass along the name & number of the shop you used to do the rebuild?

Yeah I'll have them install the full shift kit as well as it never has been smooth.

Thanks!

Also btw, when you said your filter split which filter were you referring to the cooler filter or pump filter, and where did it split?

Thanks again!

:-)

Last edited by four2score; 12-28-2013 at 09:58 PM..
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Unread 12-28-2013, 10:01 PM   #71
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PM sent

It was the flat pan type filter that looks like this


The metal top separates from the plastic bottom. I've always seen it on one of the long sides.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 12:03 AM   #72
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Yeah I've read about that a bunch of times with the Dodge RAM guys. (Same Trans.) There's even some TSB's out for the issue.

The split allows the fluid to drain back from the converter and cause all kinds of slipping and shifting problems which is what I'm currently experiencing.

Ok cool deal! I'll check mine out and let you know what I come up with.

Thank you!
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:07 AM   #73
twistedlizard72
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Got the Jeep out into the hills over the weekend. Went and checkout out the Swansea Township site outside of Parker, AZ. Roads were all pretty well maintained. Lots of cool stuff back in there.

Arriving to the site


The Smelter


Some foundations from part of the smelting process.


Train Depot




Back side of the slag pile and some of the collection/cooling pools.


Daaaaaaaang. Lookin' Good!
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Unread 04-09-2014, 03:20 PM   #74
paroxysym
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still prob one of my top 5 WKs on here i like. anything new with it?

once mines paid off and i move west ill be going with the SL and the 285s, looks so balanced
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Unread 04-10-2014, 03:11 AM   #75
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Thanks for the compliment!

Unfortunately not a whole lot has happend over the last 10 months. I'm deployed once again so time hasn't been in my favor.

I have ordered some things from Kolak for when I get home. I'll be adding the muffler and tip that Kolak recommends for the 4.7L, new brake rotors, and a cabin filter kit.
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