Got a few more things done a few days ago. The biggest was the front prop shaft CV rebuild. Here is how it went.
-First had to get the thing out. To get the shaft out I had to undo the rear front diff hangar and swing the link out of the way (super lift) then was able to get the shaft forward enough to clear the cross member.
-Once out, I just used a flat screwdriver and a hammer to pry off the end cap of the CV joint. When I popped it off a bunch of water and sand came gushing out. It was pretty much destroyed.
-Next remove the C-clip and the strap on the rubber boot.
-Then the CV joint slips right off.
Here is the culprit to the failure, torn boot.
The new kit all laid out. It is the Dorman rebuild kit and ordered from Napa. It was $164, I know it is online for cheaper, but I was in a pinch for time.
-When rebuilding, the first step is to attach rubber boot side to the bearing unit.
-You must make sure the bearing unit is facing right, the face of the T-case side is machined down for a paper gasket, flat surface is forward.
-They instruct to use a liquid sealant on the flat surface. I didn't have any, but I did have RTV sealant, so laid a small bead of RTV and pressed on the cap.
I didn't use any guides to keep the holes lined up, but it might not be a bad idea.
-It fits snug and had to use a rubber mallet to get it to sit down all the way.
-Once that was on, I packed the bearings with the provided grease.
Picture after packed, also note the machined detent on the face for the paper gasket.
-Slide the new CV unit onto the shaft splines, once lined up, it took a little persuasion with the rubber mallet to get it all the way on.
-Install the C-clip.
At this point I made sure to add some more grease. A little had come out when sliding it onto the splines. I did end up using nearly the whole tube they provided.
-Install paper gasket and end cap. Again, it fits snug and took some hammering to get it seated. Hindsight Note: It might be beneficial to put a little loc-tite 518 sealer on the paper gasket. The instructions didn't call for it, and I didn't use any.
-Reinstall into Jeep. I decided to use the new bolt straps with the old bolts. The straps provided with the kit have a little more surface area, and the bolts are an allen head with no guides. Use a star or criss cross pattern when installing bolts for proper seating. I used medium strength loc-tite on all mount bolts for good measure. For those lucky enough to have the U-joint on the front Diff ('05-'06 according to manual), the mount flange bolts torque to 80 ft-lbs. For the rest of us ('07+) with a CV on the front diff, mount bolts torque to 24 ft-lbs. The mount bolts to the transfer case on all models is 24 ft-lbs.