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Unread 09-15-2013, 07:47 PM   #1
crown508
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2006 WK 
 
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Location: Boonville, IN
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transmission getting stuck in gear

i just bought a 2006 grand Cherokee 3.7L. it shifts and runs great. normally. what is happening is ill be driving and all of a sudden when i come to a stop and go to take off it will not down shift or upshift. seems like it might be in 3rd gear. if i cycle the key and start to drive again it is fine and wont do it any more that day. normal it occurs in the mornings on the way to work. when it does it i cant change the D to 4,3,2 or 1. when i try it just stays in D. but one cycle of the key and it shifts fine and i can change from D to 4,3,2 and 1 no problem. not throwing any codes or MIL. any one have any suggestions or a heading for me to look at?

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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:43 AM   #2
bull_blaster
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2005 WK 
 
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Location: Hillsboro, Oregon, USA
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I had the same problem too. Its the speed sensor inside the transmission. You will need to replace the Conductor Plate on the Valve body. Part is 200$ . Dealer wanted 800 for the job. Got it done for 300. Very easy fix just takes time to drain all the fluid. My transmission shifts like brand new.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:48 AM   #3
crown508
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Thanks bull_blaster. So it threw and code this morning. Was for the speed sensor. Forget what code. I wrote it down and left in my jeep. So the speed sensor is on the conductor plate ? All I need to do is pull pan and ill have access to the plate? Thanks
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Unread 09-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #4
smdrcr_9
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Is there a write up on this anywhere? I assume this part would work correct? http://www.1aauto.com/1A/automatic-t...FQai4AodwncAng

I have an 08 that does this and at first i thought i could clean/replace the shift module that everyone talks about but mine doesn't have the circuit board under the shifter like others do. Thanks.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 12:49 PM   #5
bull_blaster
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I would get the OEM conductor plate made by Mercedes Benz. Lots of made in china boards online so be careful. I got mine from ebay from a Mopar dealer for 213 shipped. I also got the 13 pin connector with new O rings for $12.

The job is very easy.

PART 1 :

1 - Make sure the Transmission is warm
2 - Remove the 13 pin plug from the socket by rotating the yellow locking tab.
3 - Next, using a 7mm deep socket and a short extension, remove the 7mm center bolt inside the socket.
4 - Pulling the plug and socket out is not easy...in other word...use gloves due to hot exhaust!
5 - Once the plug is out....proceed to PART 2


PART 2:

1 - Use a T-30 torx bit to unbolt the fluid pan.
2 - drain fluid.....about 30 minutes
3 - Using the same torx bit...unscrew the ten bolts the holds the valve body.
4 - Be careful as the VB drops, more fluid will come out...let it drain for 20 min.
5 - Once the VB is out...make sure you place it on a clean dust free surface
6 - Remove the two yellow plastic covers.
7 - Using the same torx bit...remove all solenoid brackets and the 6 shift solenoids
8 - Label each and make sure you put them back in the right place.
9 - Remove the Conductor Plate from the valve body...held by plastic tabs on the sides
10 - Using a clean shop towel..wipe and clean the VB. DO NOT use any chemicals or spray cleaners
11- Install the new board and make sure its on there tight...no play.
12 - Wipe clean all solenoids and place them back on the board.
13 - Place and bolt the VB back into the transmission.
14 - Install the new 13 pin socket . You might need to rotate it a few times till you feel the grooves click then push down hard till it clicks again. Do not over tighten the 7mm plug bolt otherwise you will strip the threads on the conductor plate.
15- Insert and lock the plug into the socker, replace filter and pan gasket, bolt the pan and refill fluid.

might seem like a hard job but its very easy. I will upload some pictures when I get home.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 12:54 PM   #6
bull_blaster
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
1ATony
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If you haven't already, I'd flush the transmission fluid and do a total fluid change on the tranny. Especially if the fluid's old and has some miles on it. Also change the transmission filter too. There could be something floating around in the tranny fluid hanging up the valve body or a governor.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 06:01 PM   #8
JV42287
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I had the exact same problem and also replaced the pressure sensor. Wasn't too hard at all. Search youtube for NAG1 pressure sensor for how-to's. There is a how-to on a Chrysler 300 with the NAG1 that helps explain the process. Good Luck.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 09:17 AM   #9
smdrcr_9
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So this is definitely the fix for our transmission having this problem? I just did the trans fluid a few weeks ago so I don't want to do it again for this and it not be the solution.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 10:21 AM   #10
bull_blaster
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Did you get any codes from the TCM ? I replaced the fluid couple of weeks before the sensor went bad....thinking that might be the problem. I ended up re using the same fluid, filter and rubber gasket with no issues. The fluid was still brand new so no point of wasting money. Just make sure you drain it in a brand new container and dont let dust or other contaminants get in.

this board is also used in several Mercedes cars and looking online....100% of the cases where the transmission was stuck in gear was directly related to the input speed sensor.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #11
smdrcr_9
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No codes, so is the speed sensor related to the conductor plate?
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Unread 10-03-2013, 05:11 PM   #12
CT05WK
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What is the part number for the MB board? I have an 05 WK 4.7 and I have the same issue.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 07:50 PM   #13
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT05WK View Post
What is the part number for the MB board? I have an 05 WK 4.7 and I have the same issue.
The 3.7's use a different (NAG1) transmission, whereas the 4.7's and 5.7's use the 545RFE transmission. If you're lucky enough to have a 6.1, it also uses the NAG1 though. Why they didn't use the NAG1 in all WK's is beyond me. My Hemi LX has it and, IMO, it's way superior to the 545RFE.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 08:00 PM   #14
CT05WK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
The 3.7's use a different (NAG1) transmission, whereas the 4.7's and 5.7's use the 545RFE transmission. If you're lucky enough to have a 6.1, it also uses the NAG1 though. Why they didn't use the NAG1 in all WK's is beyond me. My Hemi LX has it and, IMO, it's way superior to the 545RFE.
So I take it, it's not that simple in my stupid 4.7? Ugh. What is the fix for me? I hate the stealership and it's something I could realistically just deal with but it is annoying.
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Unread 10-04-2013, 01:59 PM   #15
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT05WK View Post
So I take it, it's not that simple in my stupid 4.7? Ugh. What is the fix for me? I hate the stealership and it's something I could realistically just deal with but it is annoying.

The very first thing to do is check and verify the correct fluid level when hot. Also, check color and smell. Being dark brown/black is not so bad, but if it smells burnt, that is not a good thing. After this I think the next thing I'd do is change the fluid/filters in the transmission. Some of the 05's with the 545RFE had a TSB relating to the cooler return filter. There have also been numerous occurrences of the sides of the main filter splitting. With either/both of these issues you'll possibly get all sorts of strange symptoms. Once this is done and the fluid level is spot on when hot, see if the problem is still there.

Beyond that, I'd check all the electrical plugs for security and cleanliness. Do this at both ends....transmission and TCM. If you have to go any further, it may end up being a solenoid pack. This will require dropping the tranny pan again, removing the valve body, replacing the pack and then reassembly.
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