Transmission Fluid change, Dealer screwing with me?
I need to change my tranny fluid because I do a lot of towing, boat in the summer and sleds in the winter. Dealership wants $325 for a flush and fill because I have an Overland with 5.7 tow package with a "special" transmission with "special" fluid and it 'MUST' be flushed not just drained. They said that the torque converter fluid doesn't get drained when you just drain and refill and that has just as much fluid in it as the pan. I've searched here and it seems this price may be high and everyone here says a drain is fine although I don't know if the treads I read pertained to the "special" transmission I have. I think they're either stupid or just trying to screw with me or am I wrong? Seems real high to me.
LOL WOW! No the converter fluid doesnt drain when you drain the pan but it does mix with the new fluid as soon as you drive it the first time. DONT FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION! WOuld you flush your engine? I hope not. Absolutely no need. Pan fluid change and filter is all you need. Thats if you even have a filter. A lot of the newer transmissions have a fill and drain plug and thats it. Do a little more homework. $325 is a ripoff. NEVER go to the dealer unless it's for a warranty issue.
The 545RFE is a special transmission with special fluids now? Someone ought to tell Jeep. (And really, I probably would call Chrysler and complain.)
Special fluids is total BS. Outside of some performance applications, basically everything in the Chrysler line for over a decade has used ATF+4 or the ATF+3 it replaced. The ATF+4 you need isn't anything special, you just need more of it.
They're correct about the torque converter, but the factory service schedule is well aware of that and only requires a drain and refill (and new filters). There's nothing wrong with a flush if you want one, and it may not be a bad idea if you've been doing abusive towing and the fluid's in obviously crappy shape, but the schedules and the vehicle are built around the assumption you're draining the pan and adding around half a fill's worth of fresh fluid.
2006 WK Laredo 4x4 4.7L
1993 ZJ Laredo 4x4 4.0L — Dead, sold, and rolling again
If your fluid is in good shape then yea a flush wont hurt anything but still not needed. If your fluid is over due or burnt up do not flush it. The flush can actually cause more problems than just leaving the old fluid in there. Over due or burnt fluid needs to be changed out a little at a time. 2 or 3 pan/filter changes over the course of a year will do it.
Ah and ATF+4 is about $6 a quart. I know my tranny took 6 quarts not sure what yours will take. Filter and pan gasket are in the $15 range. It's a messy job but can be done in about a half hour in your driveway if your handy. Maybe an hour if its your first time. Why not give it a shot yourself. Would probably cost $50-$75 to do it yourself.
Yes you have maybe 12 bolts holding the pan up. Loosten the bolts on the back and both sides then slowly loosten the front bolts. Let the pan kinda hang lower on the back side so the fluid drains out some. Its messy no mattery what you do but it's not hard by any means. The filter is either pressed in or held in with a bolt or two. Either way yes its right there infront of your face you cant miss it. Just match it up with the new one you buy. When you remove the old filter just make sure the old o ring gasket comes out with it. You will know what i mean as soon as you look at the new/old filter. Would be a good idea to also change your transfer case fluid as well as both diffs. 30K is the marker for it all.
Not sure if this help much with changing the filter.
FLUID AND FILTER REPLACEMENT
For proper service intervals, refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION.
1. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
2. Place a large diameter shallow drain pan beneath the transmission pan.
3. Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to transmission.
4. Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.
5. Slowly separate front of pan away from transmission allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.
6. Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts holding pan to transmission.
7. While holding pan level, lower pan away from transmission.
8. Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
9. Remove the screw holding the primary oil filter (1) to valve body.
10. Separate filter from valve body and oil pump and pour fluid in filter into drain pan.
11. Inspect the oil filter seal in the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is not installed completely in the oil pump, or is otherwise damaged, then remove and discard the oil filter seal from the bottom of the oil pump. If the seal is installed correctly and is in good condition, it can be reused.
12. If replacing the cooler return filter (2), use Oil Filter Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the transmission.
13. Dispose of used bans fluid and filter(s) properly.
Inspect bottom of pan and magnet for excessive amounts of metal. A light coating of clutch material on the bottom of the pan does not indicate a problem unless accompanied by a slipping condition or shift lag. If fluid and pan are contaminated with excessive amounts of debris, refer to the diagnosis section of this group.
1. Using a suitable solvent, clean pan and magnet.
2. Using a suitable gasket scraper, clean original sealing material from surface of transmission case and the transmission pan.
CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to the transmission will result.
1. If necessary, install a new primary oil filter seal in the oil pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with a suitable tool (appropriately sized drift or socket, the butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool).
2. Place replacement filter in position on valve body and into the oil pump.
3. Install screw to hold the primary oil filter (1) to valve body. Tighten screw to 4.5 Nm (40 inch lbs.) torque.
4. Install new cooler return filter (2) onto the transmission, if necessary. Torque the filter to 14.12 Nm (125 inch lbs.) .
5. Place bead of Mopar RTV sealant onto the transmission case sealing surface.
6. Place pan in position on transmission.
7. Install bolts to hold pan to transmission. Tighten bolts to 11.8 Nm (105 inch lbs.) torque.
8. Lower vehicle and fill transmission with Mopar ATF +4.
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.
2. Add following initial quantity of Mopar ATF +4 to transmission:
1. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 10 pints (5 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
2. If transmission was completely overhauled and the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 24 pints (12 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
My 5.7 Hemi with the 545RFE took 8 quarts of ATF+4 to bring it to the full mark after changing both filters. I started with 5 or 6 quarts and then slowly added, after running it a bit, until it read full when hot. There are two filters. The return filter is a small screw on (like an engine filter) and the main filter goes over the pump pickup tube. Be sure to remove the old "neck seal. In order to avoid problems (sucking air), this caution in the shop manual must be adhered to:
"CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage
to the transmission will result."
06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
Not sure if this helps either, but I thought I would give it to you and let you make your decision.
Chrysler Group vehicle fluid systems do NOT require regular flushing.[/COLOR] These systems include: engine oil, transmission oil, axle lube, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and refrigerant. The only exception to this requirement are published in the vehicle maintenance schedules, e.g. engine coolant.
Exceptions to this recommendation include only those instances where a failure has occurred and/or the system has become compromised, contaminated or overheated beyond the normal operating range.
Chrysler Group does NOT recommend aftermarket chemicals to flush the engine, transmission, brake or steering systems. Chemicals contained in these products can damage the system elastomeric components, and contaminate the component fluid, leading to loss of system/component durability and service life. When necessary, only the original approved system fluid should be used to flush these components using teamPSE(R) approved equipment.
If the engine coolant contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with Mopar Cooling System Flush, p/n 04856977, or equivalent. Follow with a thorough rinsing to remove all deposits and chemicals. Refill with a minimum of a 50% mixture of the specified coolant and distilled water.
Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.
I have not attempted the Transmission yet, Parts guy said the 545RFE trans that I have will only need One Gallon of ATF+4. From the reading I've done online it sounds like I should have another Gallon on hand. He also said that there was no need to change the spin on filter, I did buy the flat one (primary I think it is). My Jeep has 107K miles on it now, and I have no clue if the previous owner did any of this (it runs fine)...the previous might have as the Rear diff fluid was clean and the carfax showed the vehicle was serviced regularly at a local dealer. (hmmm can a dealer look up maintenance history based on a VIN if I take it back to that dealer where the carfax shows...place is so close to where I live).
If you go on Jepo.com, under the owners section, you can list the vehcile by the VIN as yours and it will show you service history. Jeep will also email coupons for oil changes and stuff too. 17.95 oil change and wiper blades is nice, or 17.95 oil change and chassis lube to keep my doors from squeeking.
The local dealer sent me a coupon by email to do the filter and fluid for $189 with the disclaimer that 'some' transmissions would be more. I called and confirmed that my transmission was NOT one of the ones that would cost 'more', so I made an appointment for early Saturday morning. Before I hung up the phone I again confirmed that the price would be $189 for my jeep. When I got there the guy at the counter told me the woman I spoke to on the phone didn't know what she was talking about, and my jeep was one of the 'more' ones. I walked out.
OK, so the directions above are helpful, but what supplies do I need to accomplish the job?
One gallon of ATF-4
The two filters
Pan gasket? RTV?
Poor grammar is something up with which I shall not put.