Originally Posted by N3ROST4R
Thanks for the help guys.
I did see the FAQ but it was pretty vague and there seems to be a lot of variables so I just wanted to be sure.
The FAQ is misleading and incomplete at best in terms of tire sizes without mods or spacers. For reference, I have an OME MD lift with Bilstein 4600 in front, stock wheels. I just went through this a couple weeks ago and ordered a set of 265/70-17 (Cooper AT3) based on the sizing recommendations in the FAQ only to find they rubbed pretty bad at full lock on the plate/frame at the rear inner wheel well. They also rub very slightly on the sway arm, but not enough to worry about. Everyone seems worried about the pinch weld but I have plenty of clearance.
One thing you will most likely have to do is cut the upper ball joint stud. Start with just cutting the nub off where the threads start and go from there. I ended up having to be pretty aggressive and cut most of the threads off but now have plenty of clearance. Cutting the stud isn't a big deal if you have an angle grinder or sawzall, and even a dremel or hacksaw will work if need be. If you decide to go with spacers, cutting isn't needed. I trimmed mine before I had the tires installed and trimmed them more when I got home from the tire shop as there was maybe enough room for a credit card to slide between the stud and tire and I wanted more clearance than that.
As far as sizes, 255/70 might still rub a touch, and 265/65 might fit but would probably rub a bit as well.
With $700 worth of new tires, I was pretty much forced to order a set of spacers, and I too went with 1.25" (spidertrax). They have been out of stock for a few weeks but apparently are shipping today so I should see them next week. Ideally I wanted 1" spacers but there are concerns with the wheel studs poking out past the spacer that could cause issues with my spare (stock wheels have opening that would allow room for the studs) so I decided to go with 1.25". From what I have gathered, if you go out much past this, like with 1.5" spacers, then you change the geometry just enough that the pinch weld comes into play. I have no personal experience with this so I can't say for sure either way but that is another reason why I didn't want to go wider than 1.25".