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Unread 06-13-2010, 02:06 PM   #1
JMorash
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2005 WK 
 
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Throttle body cleaning

Took my intake off and saw so much crud in my throttle body. Can it be cleaned?

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Unread 06-13-2010, 02:30 PM   #2
glopez2k
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You are not supposed to clean it but Ive read some posts where people claim to have cleaned it. Will be ineteresting to read what other people answer.
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Unread 06-13-2010, 02:47 PM   #3
I8AHUMR
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It's not serviceable. If the location of the valve is changed the computer gets confused b/c it loses track of where it was. It won't match what the computer has in memory
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Unread 06-13-2010, 05:53 PM   #4
Walt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I8AHUMR View Post
It's not serviceable. If the location of the valve is changed the computer gets confused b/c it loses track of where it was. It won't match what the computer has in memory
You are correct in stating that "it is not serviceable". In Chrysler's terms, that means it is replaced as an assembly, rather than any indivdual components.

The throtle body can be cleaned and it is not difficult, but a degree of care is necessary. I did it as the first thing after warranty expired. 90grandoneer put me on to this crud buildup . Frankly, I was astounded as to how much oily crud had built up in 30K miles . We have posted this description on several other threads on JF since about Jan '10.

Here's what I did:
1. Remove the big box (air intake silencer) from the front of the engine. Comes off with 1 @ 10mm capscrew and a sliding clip underneath. Loosen all hose clamps and rubber transition pieces. Also, disconnect the intake air temperature sensor underneath. Have to slide the assembly towards the front of the Jeep to disengage.
2. Remove the 4 @ 10mm capscrews holding the throttle body to the intake manifold. When disengaging the throttle body assembly, take care not to damage to the big O-ring between the throttle body & the intake manifold. I did not disconnect the wiring harness (afraid it would somehow lose its memory.) Others have since told me that it can be disconnected, provided, the negative lead to the battery is removed first. The OEM Service Manual (Section 14) that I now have confirms this.
3. I cut a new wooden paint stirrer down to about 4-5" in length. Carefully open the butterfly and insert the paint stirrer in the bore, perpendicular to the open butterfly. This allows you to work on it easily.
4. I used a clean, old cotton t-shirt, isopropyl alcohol, and q-tips to carefully remove the crud buildup on the throttle body bore. Particular attention is needed around the butterfly shaft penetration into the throttle body and where the closed butterfly lands on the bore. Clean the back side and the edges of the butterfly. These are machine surfaces, so be sure that you do not scratch them.
5. I also wiped out the intake manifold in the area where the throttle body bolts up and where the PCV valve discharge into the intake manifold.
6. In re-assembling, remember the O-ring and hand-tighten the 4 capscrews. Torque is 5.6 N-m (50 in-lbs) and they are done in a criss-cross pattern. Object is to avoid distorting the throttle body upon re-installation.
7. Replace the air intake silencer cross box and connect the hoses and intake air temperature sensor. Might want to ensure the intake air temp sensor is clean also.

Take your time. This is about a 1-hr job. Hope this helps.
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Unread 06-13-2010, 08:06 PM   #5
90grandoneer
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Boy Walt, I am glad you're doing all these. You've got it down to a science now, LOL!! I'll just stand by and watch. Thanks!! Did you say yours is out of warranty now? If so, are you going to start doing some of the more productive mods?
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Unread 06-14-2010, 08:01 AM   #6
JMorash
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Anyone ordered a arrignton engines throttle body 90mm bore? I'm thinking abut doing that.
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Unread 06-14-2010, 08:02 AM   #7
BonesWK
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sea foam??
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Unread 06-14-2010, 09:19 AM   #8
90grandoneer
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JM, if you do, let us know how it works out. Could be an easy performance gain.
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Unread 06-14-2010, 02:27 PM   #9
bob123
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The dealer always tries to sell me the throttle body serviced and I can't imagine the TB being that dirty only at 40,000 miles or so.

If the dealer claims they can clean it then I would think we can clean it too. Maybe they use a spray type cleaner so not much contact is required.
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Unread 06-14-2010, 04:06 PM   #10
duckmans83
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Does normal spray TB cleaner cause problems with the electronics or something?
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Unread 06-14-2010, 04:11 PM   #11
90grandoneer
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As Walt said above: " Frankly, I was astounded as to how much oily crud had built up in 30K miles." Check it out and I think you'll be equally astounded. After cleaning it, the only sure fire, long term fix, IMO, is the catch can and a good PCV valve.
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Unread 06-14-2010, 07:12 PM   #12
Walt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
Boy Walt, I am glad you're doing all these. You've got it down to a science now, LOL!! I'll just stand by and watch. Thanks!! Did you say yours is out of warranty now? If so, are you going to start doing some of the more productive mods?
After losing my splendid and award-winning 1st draft response, I'll try this again.

1. It's out of 3/36 warranty, but Chrysler and the dealer provided an "extended warranty" for those discrepant condiditions that remained. It's at 47K miles.
2. We hit a milestone over the weekend. Dealer finally installed a new EGR valve, TSB flash for 5.7L HEMI performance, serpentine belt, and serpentine belt tensioner. Wow! What a performance difference! Engine delivered 20.7 mpg at 60 mph with A/C unit on. Smoother idle, idle speed increased fm 550 rpm to 625 rpm, and shifting responsiveness is better. Hasn't performed this well since it had 10K miles. '08 WK GC Limited may be a keeper now.
3. Mods I want to do now: oil catch can, Fumoto drain valve, DashDAQ XL with NAV feature, cabin air filter, real skid plates, and SC programmer.

BonesWK writes: sea foam?? . I didn't use this either as a cleaner or as an additive (brake vacuum drag or intake manifold). Two (2) things prevented me: the "extended warranty" as we sorted out the issues and the fact that the residue ends up on the O2 sensors/catalytic converters. I've had intermittent O2 sensor codes (P0133) that come and go for no apparent reason. Didn't want to pour any more fuel on the fire (pun intended). I have read that others really like the Sea Foam treatment; I'm just a very conservative engineer and cautious right now.

bob123 writes: The dealer always tries to sell me the throttle body service and I can't imagine the TB being that dirty only at 40,000 miles or so.
If the dealer claims they can clean it then I would think we can clean it too. Maybe they use a spray type cleaner so not much contact is required.
Here's my take: The crud on the inside of my throttle body at 32K miles was caked and required a small degree of mechanical removal. Not sure that a mild spray cleaner (alone) would do it. I was unwilling to use a harsh cleaner. Doubt that dealer's mechanics (on flat rate reimbursement) would take that much care, like you undoubtedly will. If you wipe it out, it's no longer in the intake area; if you spray it in place, the crud just moves further down towards your cylinder and valves.
At 40K miles, you should be able to pot a small plant with the crud you remove. Remember that the buildup will occur on the back side of the butterfly and venturi opening, just at the point where the butterfly closes. This comes from part-throttle operation (when you have the highest intake manifold vacuum).

duckmans83 writes: Does normal spray TB cleaner cause problems with the electronics or something? Don't know the formulation of throttle body cleaner. Isopropyl alcohol is a very mild solvent and was my starting point. Would have moved on to a stronger solvent if it had not worked. I avoided having the solvent get into the actuator motor.

OK, I'm done. My Return to you normal programming......

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