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Unread 02-26-2014, 04:02 PM   #1
Tamerin
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Virginia
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Thoughts & Advice: General Maintenance

Sup,

I read all the forums and posts that I could, but it seems a lot of the posts on these are old. So, instead of asking in each, figured I'd just post up:

So this weekend, going to finish all the preventive care and maintenance I should get done. So figured I'd see if anyone has advice or such.

- Oil, Transfer Case, and Differential Fluids already changed at JiffyLube, so all good there.

- Transmission Fluid & Filter Change. First time doing it, should be interesting. Any advice? Mostly, like how not to damage the gasket.

- ERG Valve. A lot of people are mostly MOPAR and such, but my local Advance Auto and Auto Zone has a Duralast in stock. Listed as OEM, should I just purchase from the dealer instead of getting that one? And looks like I'll be getting a hack saw or dremel to cut that bolt it seems.

- PCV Valve. Again, should I get it from the dealer? Or just go with Autozone OEM product?

- Spark Plugs. Should be fun, 16. First time doing plugs on a Hemi, gonna just finger tighten. Looks like that is the number one suggestion.

- Steering Bolt Thingie. Yeah, I get that acceleration pop/noise, and my steering is a bit wobbly. Looks like I'll just get it all done this weekend since I'll be under the truck. Can't wait to have my stiffen steering again.

- Alignment/Wheels Rebalanced. Still have a slight wobble over 65 mph. First going to do the steering and brakes/rotors, cause those can cause the same feeling. After, going to figure out why after an alignment and wheels balanced 2 weeks ago, the feeling is still there.

- Rotors and Brakes. Last time, I had to use a rubber mallet to bang a little to get rusted rotors off my old Jeep. Prob the same here. Not advice needed, but it's getting done this weekend.

- Catch Can? Still have no idea where to get one, Billet only has one for the SRT, can I use the same one? Weird.

So yup, any other advice would be good.

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Unread 02-26-2014, 06:26 PM   #2
Jaashua
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What's the "Steering Bolt Thingie" I'd love some tighter steering.
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Unread 02-26-2014, 06:52 PM   #3
colinzj
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I'd be concerned about what Jiffy Lube put into the transfer case. Unless they see enough WJs and WKs that they stock NV245/247/249 fluid, it's probably not right.

Speaking from experience, AutoZone doesn't offer a PCV for any of the WK engines. Other parts stores may. Aftermarket should be fine.
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Unread 02-26-2014, 07:05 PM   #4
Tamerin
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Jasshua, check out here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/t...d-pop-1421373/. Gets rid of any noise regarding steering, but also helps stiffen the steering a little.

Colin, yeah a lot of people say that about the transfer case. I specifically asked if they have the right fluids, and they told me it. I don't have the sheet in front of me, but it's the OEM fluids. They barely had any in stock, but they used the right one. Where I live in Virginia, quite a bit of Jeeps overall go through that Jiffylube.

And so no Autozone, huh? Will check out Advance Auto or NAPA then.

I tend to try to stay with OEM parts, but I know sometimes stores won't have em, and I get stuck going to dealers and their 'lovely' prices sometimes. heh.
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Unread 02-26-2014, 11:52 PM   #5
colinzj
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Yeah, no AutoZone. No idea why, but neither the site nor the in-store system list PCV valves as available for our vehicles. Not even via special order.

NAPA and O'Reilly both have them. I'd assume Advance does too.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 12:13 AM   #6
BLK05WK
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For the catch can I think I ordered the 06 one for my 05 - I'm looking at my receipt now and it's code # 20010, description billet catch can signature series can 5.7 or 6.1 hemi engine $135
But yeah their website is the only reputable place I know of. I made my own bracket to hold it. I also replaced the pcv valve at the same time. Best first thing to do. The catch can pulled so much moisture out of my system. I live in a cold climate with lots of short trips so I knew this was an issue. I filled the can in the first 600 miles with mostly water moisture with a tint of oil since then it's picked up less and less amounts.
If I remember correctly I used the oem champion 530 spark plugs and I used a new set of shorty wires for my 05 5.7

http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_maintenance.htm
http://**********.org/f183/taylor-sp...sty-38692.html
http://www.custombilletstore.com/Hem...an_p/20010.htm
http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/82641/10002/-1

And I got my pcv through rock auto
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Unread 02-27-2014, 01:11 AM   #7
sunoff
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billet catch can

I think it's something to do with the mounting. They don't have the catch cans listed for some of our years/models. Just Get close it will work/fit. But you need to make a simple mount yourself. Search here for instructions. They were rather useless when calling with questions though...sounded like a "our lawyers told us not to answer that question" kinda situation...
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Unread 02-27-2014, 06:22 AM   #8
caulk04
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Finger tight on plugs isn't enough. With a gasket, it's something like 1/4 turn past touching. Without, it's like 1/16 turn past. Either way, a torque wrench is the better way to go. Use a bit of anti-seize on the threads regardless of what some people say about it being pre-applied. It's not.

Transmission gasket doesn't exist...mostly. I think I got a cork gasket with my WIX filter kit long ago but I don't trust it as far as I can throw it (cork, lol). Use RTV, I prefer basic black.

I just bought a new PCV from RockAuto as part of and order I was placing anyway. Considerably cheaper than anywhere else. AirTex brand I believe. It was tight going in, nothing I didn't expect with new o-rings.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 08:09 AM   #9
TSEJEEPERS
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You may want to consider putting a drain in the transmission pan.
It makes it alot easier and less messy next time you change your fluid.
Agree with the RTV.
Buddy did one and used the gasket. It leaked.
If you can afford it get a in-lbs torque wrench. It takes the guess work out of tighting the bolts on the pan.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 10:19 AM   #10
colinzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Use a bit of anti-seize on the threads regardless of what some people say about it being pre-applied. It's not.
It is. The plug (Champion, NGK, Autolite, Bosch) is silver specifically because it's coated with an anti-sieze, anti-corrosion layer. You are literally looking at the anti-sieze when you pull the plug out of the box.

Uncoated plugs from any of those brands are black.

If you apply liquid anti-sieze because it makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside, remember to reduce the torque. Book values are all dry.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 11:01 AM   #11
caulk04
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The silver zinc coating simply does not have the same anti-corrosive properties that a good anti-seize grease does. You can't call it anti-seize because it's not. It's a chemical coating like galvanized steel has.

How many factory OEM plugs have you broken loose, then had to work out of the head? Every single one I've ever removed has had resistance the whole way out. Every single plug I've removed that I've installed with anti-seize has broken loose and slithered right out of the head smoothly.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 02:14 PM   #12
816jared
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamerin View Post
- Rotors and Brakes. Last time, I had to use a rubber mallet to bang a little to get rusted rotors off my old Jeep. Prob the same here. Not advice needed, but it's getting done this weekend.
.
the only tricky part about doing brakes is there a rubber o-ring around the hub, I used needle nose pliers to remove it.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 04:06 PM   #13
Tamerin
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Woot,

Thanks for the information. I'll see if I can get a Catch Can delivered before next weekend, have a long drive to NC and back. Would be nice to have it installed and see how much junk gets kept out.

I'll check out NAPA for the PCV valve, and prob just the ERG Valve too.

Looks like I'll be picking up a torque wrench too. First time doing spark plugs actually, all the cars I've ever owned already had new plugs installed, never got around to doing them myself. So first time for everything, why not, right? Already have the Champion plugs, made sure to get the OEM style too. 16 of those darn things, no way do i want to have to replace them cause I bought the wrong kind.

And yeah. When I had my 3.7l, I was completely stumped when I got to the hub. Had no idea where the o-ring was when I changed the rotors then. I can honestly say, the rotors and brakes on my 5.7 are long over due. Squeals all the time, about an hour after I left the lot with it too. Shook my head I didn't check them before I picked 'er up.

I'll prob just change the plug wires another date. Limited budget, lol. Trying to do a lot of the work myself, pretty sure it will take two days. Been awhile since I've gotten dirty with a vehicle.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 05:40 PM   #14
lowpsi
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I just did the EGR this past weekend (advance Auto around 44.00), a metric wrench set is your friend. I had read about the cutting of the bolt as well and I managed to wrench it back in with little to no effort (no cutting). All in all that project took almost two hours, partly because I did not have the correct wrenches and also because I took a lot of things out to make it easier to get my big ole hands in there.

I really would like to get in touch with someone who has done the steering thingie before I do it myself as I am thinking my noises might be something else. Sort of have them take my Jeep for a quick spin round the block (with me in it as well) to see if the noise is what they had as well... lol
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Unread 03-01-2014, 01:21 PM   #15
Tamerin
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Soooo,

Got called into work today, so didn't do the work myself. Instead, took it to a trusted shop I've taken all my other vehicles, and the work was done for around $650 in total (parts and labor). Yeah, I could have prob saved 200-300 doing it myself, but needed it done and didn't have time today or tomorrow.

For the transmission fluid, I got that Castrol Max AFT-4. I called the nearest dealer, and they didn't have any MOPAR AT4 they could sell to me, and none of the specialty shops in the area did either. Was sort of surprised, but was in a hurry, so I got that. Synthetic/High Mileage Tranny Fluid, said it was specific for Chrysler/Dodge vehicles. Should be fine, yeah? Didn't get enough either, only got 6 quarts, drove from the shop to the nearest Advance Auto, and put another quart in. All topped off, right at the line too.

But, two things.

1) Damn Jeep didn't want to start up when I went to Advance Auto. Originally, I thought it was the spark plugs, now I'm thinking it's the ignition? It's always random, no codes, no nothing. So advice?

2) Message "Transmission Over Temp" came up as I was heading to Advance Auto as well. Topped it off, message went away. I had this happen several times before I did the tranny fluid, but it only happened when I idled for long period of times. This time, it came up twice as I put the vehicle under load (take off/acceleration). After I topped off, it didn't come up again, and I sort of pushed the Jeep to try to get it to come up, but nothing. Could it be a bad sensor? The shop said they think the wrong fluid was put into the Jeep the last time, cause they said the fluid they changed out was pretty good still. Thoughts?

Overall, I can feel a performance gain, if only a little. Perhaps a bit more responsiveness when gas is down.
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brakes , maintenance , spark plugs , steering clunk , transmission fluid

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