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IowaJeepNewbie 02-18-2013 02:17 PM

Tech write ups/ DIY write ups
I am going to make this a stickie, HOWEVER this thread is for links ONLY. NO CHIT CHAT! Refer questions to private messages, build threads, or WK General Discussion


Ok I am hoping I can help out by making this thread for writes ups from tech write ups to DIY. If you have questions about the write up or DIY use that thread to ask. If you find one you like to have on this list ADD IT. This is just the start more to come

Here is a link to a thread if you want to talk about things in this thread like we need to add but you cant find or it shouldnt be here lol


You can find alot of great Jeeps here with alot of great info in the members build threads

WK/XK Build Threads List

WK Maintenance information and schedules

WK Maintenance information and schedules

Engine Work

Hemi spark plug change write-up

WK engine oil and filter Change

Throttle body cleaning

CRD maintenance items: Serpentine belt, diff fluid, fuel filter, CCV plug information

WK engine oil and filter Change

PCV Valve of 05 3.7L WK with Picture DIY

how to replace spark plugs on a 3.7l v6 WK

Elephant Hose Installation step by step 3.0L CRD

2005 Transmission cooler line leak (Link 2 Post #6)

2005 WK Limited 4.7 Oil Change


Grand Cherokee CRD - Transmission Fluid Change

Gas Transmission Fluid change

Rear Brakes

In-Dash Aux Input

Replace the MTC Blower Motor Resistor

the (?) HVAC/switch lighting thread

Rear seat cup holder replacement

How To Change Front Struts and Rear shock on a 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7

IowaJeepNewbie 02-18-2013 09:02 PM

I will put the video ones I find here....

JeepN4KC 02-18-2013 10:50 PM

I'll throw a couple in the list. I'm not savvy enough to shorten the clicky links titles very fast but here's some:

PCV Valve on 4.7:

Torqueing upper strut and center bolts post lift - cheater method:

Communications - CB install:

Rear fender roll:

Pinch weld cut&fold:

Drain/Refill rear diff w/ cover swap:

Sunroof drains?:

jaje 03-06-2013 09:38 AM

Stillen Brake Upgrade:
Bilstein Strut Upgrade and Alternator Replacement CRD:

Jaashua 03-09-2013 12:05 AM

9 Attachment(s)

My write up for headliner watermark removal.

DieselDevotion 03-11-2013 04:49 AM


Omelet 03-11-2013 01:11 PM

Here's a few of mine:

Omelet's LED Rock Lights

Omelet's Rear Fender Mod!

Omelet's Headlamp Project!

Omelet's Hidden Winch Build

TrailTitan5 03-11-2013 09:04 PM

Here's my install of a Mygig RER: MyGig RER Installation Also important to note is that a MyGig RHR Low Speed (the model upgrade of the RER) will also work in this installation as well :)

gemiller 03-19-2013 07:42 PM

How To: Differential pinion mount/bushing replacement

Should probably be on the top list.

R4TCHET 03-25-2013 11:26 PM

Expanded Sheet Grille Mod

gamma500 03-31-2013 08:44 AM

2005 4.7 L JGC waterpump DIY
Sorry no pictures but thought I might lend some help to this DIY.

My waterpump started a small leak after 7 years/55K miles. Got AutoZone replacement with plastic impeller for $47.00, gasket included, Made in China. RockAuto has similar and also one with metal impeller.

1- Remove underneath splash pan. Drain antifreeze via stopcock(clockwise looking forward) on lower,DR side of radiator. This plastic valve can stick and forcing it will cause breakage..if it won't turn more than 180 degrees easily, go to removing lower radiator hose instead which needs removal anyway. remove radiator cap to help drain process. Have catch basin to catch, reuse coolant.

2-Loosen 4 bolts (1/2") on fan blade to clutch, do not remove yet.

3-Remove fan clutch: you need a 32MM open wrench or large adjustable wrench in my case. Stabilize the black pump pulley so you can loosen the large nut (loosen is counterclockwise looking from ft.). They make flimsy specialty tools for this. I used a magneto pin holder vice grip from 20 years ago but a way I have used before is to take a length of chain and attach to face of pulley via one of the 4 holes in it and attach other end of chain to lower suspension piece so the pulley is fixed as you apply the wrench to nut. Use PBlaster or Kroil to nut and soak..mine came off incredibly easily.

4- Take off fan bolts, slip fan off clutch, remove clutch and lay clutch vertically aside, not flat per Manual warning..

5- I removed the fan shroud, actually dropped it down so pump accessed. You will find it easier to maneuver shroud if lower radiator hose is off..I used vicegrips to loosen tension clamps, lubed hose so they slipped better. Wedge a small screwdriver under lip of hose to break seal, don't get too rough, and squirt some PBlaster up there. Note which end of hose goes where for latter. Position catch basin under hose to collect antifreeze. Remove the 10mm shroud bolts at top sides and lower sides (these 2 are about 6 inches up from bootom of shroud). Disconnect the electric fan grey connector by pushing down on tab/pulling. Wiggle the shroud towards the bottom which necessitates getting the power steering rubber lines/electrical wires(on lt.) out of the way. You should now have a full view of the waterpump area.

6-Mark direction of serpentine belt , rotates lt. to rt. from ft. of car.

7-Loosen belt tensioner (farther left lt. small pulley via its center bolt, turningto lt.) 14mm? Slip off belt from pulleys after drawing diagram of how they go back.

8. Remove inner rt. tensioner pulley so waterpump bolts under it can be accessed.

9- Loosen all 8 of the pump bolts and have piece of cardboard with holes in it positioned to show bolt sites since they are different lengths. Remove bolts, position catch basin below pump and give a knock with rubber hammer, don't pry with metal object which might score mating surfaces. Mine came off with minor tap and gush of coolant.

{{ My leaking area was from the peripheral mounting gasket, not a failure of the bearing seal which explains why no coolant from "weep hole"}}.

10- Clean mating surface with ScotchBrite or equivalent, dry as best as can.
Clean mounting bolt threads. I noted the longer bolts had corrosion on their distal ends like they protruded into a water gallery so I prepped them with some RTV before reinstallation, just a dab at those areas. Short bolts were new looking.

11- Applied thin layer of RTV (blue GasketMaker Permatex) to new gasket and let it set up for 10 minutes..go light here, some feel this isn't necessary but my original gasket obviously shrank and failed.

12. Mount new pump with bolts in correct holes, finger tightening all 8. Torque to 43 ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern making sure pump is flush to surface and not cocked. Spin pump pulley to make sure it is free, not binding.

13- Replace inner tensioner pulley...45 ft/lbs torque

14-Replace serpentine belt after checking positioned in all pulley grooves, with tensioner pulley moved to rt.

15. Move fan shroud back up and position the lower tabs in recessed slot, put back those 10mm bolts. Finger tighten top 10mm bolts, reconnect fan electrical connector, replace lower radiator hose and replace tension clamps in same positions. I clamped these with vicegrips then turned down the adjusting knob so they closed the clamp even more while attached and position in original, right near end of hose, positions. Tighten the fan shroud 4 10mm bolts snuggly.

16- Place fan blade (marked on blade which way is "Ft.") on clutch, and place clutch 32mm nut onto new pump pulley and tighten a few threads. Then finger tighten the 4 fan blade bolts onto clutch. Tighten 32mm nut snuggly, I used blue thread locker. Tighten fan blade bolts fully now.

17- Close radiator petcock if still open, start filling with HOAT coolant via radiator cap opening watching as air bubbles gurgle up and eventually you can't fill anymore without overflow. Leave funnel in opening, start Jeep, run her up some ramps a bit or curb so front end is higher than rear. As Jeep starts coolant in radiator neck will start going down. Check for leaks..none, right!! Let Jeep idle and start warming up so thermostat opens, loosen the bleeder NPT plug on rt. side of engine..follow the rt. radiator hose backwards to its casting attachment and the bleeder is there. You'll need the correct metric hex socket or you might get lucky and loosen with the correct metric bolt head being inserted and using a vicegrip on the shaft. Remove bleeder plug almost completely so it can wobble, place rag around area to catch coolant, let Jeep warm up (takes a while) adding coolant to radiator neck as level drops, and watch for bleeder to start spurting out mostly air and than airfree coolant at which point you tighten down the bleeder plug. Top off radiator neck, replace radiator cap. Fill overflow tank to "Low" marker and take a test ride checking that Temp Guage OK..should be a bit to the left of midline. Come home, turn off, let her cool off and adjust overflow tank level as needed, usually will have gone down and need refilling to midway point between H/L. Again check underneath for leaks. Replace splash pan.

DRCracker 07-16-2013 09:30 PM

Lower Grill Expanded Metal Insert DIY
Here's my lower grill insert build;


LifeOnABoard 07-26-2013 07:36 AM

3.0 CRD VNT Turbo actuator disassembly instructions

I don't have a direct source for replacement motors or gears.

Tools required: A milling machine and a small selection of end mills. Philips and flat head screw drivers. A punch set and small hammer.

1. Pop off clips holding the black case to the gear box. Split open.
2. Mill out the pressed in cap covering the screw that holds the motor in place with a 5/16" end mill.
3. Remove the screw.
4. Do your best to remove the leaf spring holding the motor in without damaging anything.
5. Remove motor.
6. Eyeball a clearance hole for punching out the pin that keeps the worm gear in place. Mill the clearance hole with a 3/16" end mill.
7. Punch out pin, remove gear.
8. Re-assembly is reverse of disassembly.

On the Jeep Grand Cherokee, the process of removing the actuator, rebuilding it and re-installing it takes 2 - 3 hours.

I have read that the dealer recalibrates the actuator to the vehicle when a new one is installed. Although I technically have the original unit back in place, I still plan on taking it to the dealer as the gear stripped for a reason. Whether they are competent enough to understand what I'm asking is to be determined. This is an ECU function. Actuator rebuilding shops can't do this for you.

ONE LAST NOTE: I have flip flopped on this matter and it's really just a small curiosity. I'm making one last statement about this. It appears that the gear stripped in the IDLE/PRESSURE RELIEF end of the lever's rotation.

DRCracker 09-07-2013 09:57 PM

Here's my procedure for changing ignition electrical switch;


DRCracker 09-14-2013 12:47 PM

Cabin Air Filter Kit Install on 2006 WK
Cabin Air Filter Kit Install


The time now is 09:57 AM.

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