I'm wanting to do the resistor fix on the swirl motor (actuator) for P2015 error code.
Finally got to a local electronics supplier today and picked up what I believe is the correct resistor. Posting a pic here in hopes that someone can verify I have the right resistor before plugging it in and frying something else on my motor.
Someone please verify I have the right resistor for the swirl motor mod.
That is the correct resistor. It looks identical to mine. Get it installed and no more problems.
You won't fry anything on the motor if it was the wrong resistance. You would either continue to get a check engine light or fry the resistor.
Thanks tnadanzig !
Hey Tango Tango
The idea is thaet the resistor tricks the vehicles computer into believing the swirl motor is working to get everything back to normal. Right now my vehicle is in limp mode.
I'll be attaching the resistor to a couple of spade connectors and slipping them into the plug for the swirl motor (actuator).
It cost me $1 for a pack of 4 resistors (I bought 2 packs) and $1.20 for each pack of 10 connectors. Bought 2 different sizes to see which works better.
Here's a picture:
I did the resistor mod and it went well. No more warning lights on the dash. Power has been restored. Thanks to everyone on this site for their support and info.
I was hesitant because I'm not familiar with diesel engines and there isn't much space to work with. Once I saw the swirl motor plug, I knew it wouldn't be as difficult as I thought. I didn't even use the spade connectors because the metal wire on the resistor was thick enought to make a snug fit. Snipped the resistor wire a little shorter than the picture, taped it up and tucked it down between the swirl motor and the fuel filter. Put back the bracket right above the plug and dropped one of the four screws down beside the fuel filter. Pulled out the fuel filter, but no screw. I think it fell down beside the manifold, so that's where it stayed. The missing screw is the one that connects the bracket to the top of the swirl motor. The other 3 screws are in place and doing the job. I'll try and fish a small magnet down there or just get another screw to replace it.
I found another problem that has to be addressed immediately. Orange rubber on the intake pipe. Looks like it was put in improperly by the last person who took it off. You can see where it was folded/crimped. Also a small tear in the rubber. The smaller rubber seal is completely torn. There is also a screw that secures the intake pipe to the top of the engine that was never fastened back in place.
The swirl motor would have failed sooner if the intake seal was like this for any length of time, so I believe the damage was done just before I bought the vehicle (Chrysler dealer). I've only had the truck 3 months. I tried to clean the intake pipe and rubber seals as best I could and put it back together. I'll tackle this issue next.
damn man thats harsh looks worse than mine did
atleast everything is working for u
i got some resistors on order from ebay lol
i dont have a swirl motor problem but will put in the resistor when they get here
2008 CRD // GDE Eco // DPF delete // 3" intercooler // OME HD // 265 dirtytracs etc.
Glad the resistor cleared your limp mode. Man that orange seal caused all kinds of a mess. Your swirl wasn't going to last long with those seals. I would do an elephant mod to keep those CCV gases out of the intake and keep your engine from getting anymore dirty.
2008 3.0L CRD WK LTD - Wifes, GDE DPF Delete Tune, Turbo Resonator Delete, 3" Intercooler, Addcoo Rear Sway Bar, 3.07 gears
2007 3.0L CRD WK LTD - Stage 2 Custom Spooling Tune, Go Fast Parts Pro-lite Build
2003 F250 6.0L CCLB - Gearhead Tunes
Thank you all for comments and questions. I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2008 3.0 CRD with 150k km on board. Good mileage, good power, crappy interior finishing but I like and (used to) trust diesels.
As of last 6 months, I have started having various problems, some due to quality of work done at the dealership, some due to something that seems nearly intentional design towards timed demand for services.
I am an engineer and, as I learn more about the 3.0 CRD, I cannot understand how such details like the oil leak over the swirl actuator and the undesired oil vapor intake dealth with by the elephant mod could be left behind without being addressed by the manufacturer.
As they say "follow the money" .
So, got the P2015 and the switch to limp mode after doing a u-turn with a reverse on a mountain road, 20 miles from the nearest highway (I live in the Canadian Rockies). I have an ODB2 tool that is now part of my auto first aid box. I tried to reset it (trick that worked once before with a P0107 - MAP sensor) but did not succeed.
Went in limp mode back home (140 miles, Canadian winter with -30 below) with an unhappy wife sitting next to me (she drives a Liberty that never gave her surprises).
Dealer confirmed the Swirl actuator failure and gave me a rough estimate of between 2000 and 4000 depending on what is found during the replacement.
I took the car home and, at my son's insistance (he drives a Jeep Wrangler 4X4 with mods) with the documentation at hand, I jumped into the repair.
The whole exercise took 20-30 minutes and I used a $ 5.00 resistor pack that included the 4.7 K Ohm resistor ( I spent more as I bought also a headlamp). The fix was done yesterday and allowed me to clear the error code and to drive with what it seems full power.
I took pictures and I will follow up with mileage and other info in a week from now.
So, thank you for the info and the courage to take ownership of issues.
I have been using the Dealer from Hell since the Jeep was new. The warranty just expired and after them telling me it would cost me $7k to replace the turbo, I decided to hire the best mechanic I know... Me, and I'm pretty stupid . I just did the resister fix and it worked great... for the first couple of blocks. Then the light came on and limp mode returned. Do I have another problem someone can suggest? I have ordered the GDE Tune for a more long term fix but I would like to make sure I don't have any other issues. The problem is, the dealership cleared the codes and the pcm hasn't generated any new ones yet so I don't have the error code(s). My next step would be to plug the swirl motor plug back in and wait for the error codes to come.
I have been using the Dealer from Hell since the Jeep was new. The warranty just expired and after them telling me it would cost me $7k to replace the turbo, I decided to hire the best mechanic I know... Me, and I'm pretty stupid . I just did the resister fix and it worked great... for the first couple of blocks. Then the light came on and limp mode returned. Do I have another problem someone can suggest? I have ordered the GDE Tune for a more long term fix but I would like to make sure I don't have any other issues. The problem is, the dealership cleared the codes and the pcm hasn't generated any new ones yet so I don't have the error code(s). My next step would be to plug the swirl motor plug back in and wait for the error codes to come. Any help would be appreciated. D
It could be your resistor has come unplugged.
2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.