A couple things first.....I didn't find the setup to be too difficult but, even today after using it almost exclusively since 5/21/10, I still make minor adjustments from time to time. I got mine "real close" after about the 1st attempt. Also know that everyone's preferences are different and, depending on how your WK is modded, your setting may need to be significantly different from others. On mine with the 5.7 and MDS, I set mine to maximize the "on" time of the MDS. On your 4.7, you won't need to worry about this. I also added the Sonnax Line Pressure Booster to the transmission, which helps by increasing the clutch clamping pressure.
I'll tell you how I went about setting things up, FWIW:
1. First I drove it around for a few days, paying particular attention to the things I didn't like with regard to the up/down shift schedules and the torque management...shift firmness. I made notes and wrote down (and dated) up/down shift schedules on all of these items. Torque management is a complete, ongoing experiment though. I started by lowering (%age wise) all of them in 10% increments. This is where some tinkering comes into play. Even today I could lower a couple of them by about 10%, or so.
2. Like at least one other member, I got a couple "beta" schedules off the internet which, in my case, were in graph format. They really weren't too much help as far as shift schedules go, but did give me some hints on how things should be set up.
3. Using the "beta" graphs as a model, I then graphed the up/down shift schedules, using each of the speeds listed on the tuner.....first for the stock setup and then the way I thought (using my notes) I wanted mine to be. Graphing the stock setup (currently showing on the SC Tuner) further enlightened me and confirmed some of the things I noticed on the beta schedules......the most noteable ones being that the downshifts should not overlap the upshifts at any point on the graph and the closer the up/down graph lines are to each other, the more sensitive the downshifts are to the slightest throttle increase. The farther away they are from each other will require somewhat more throttle to force a down shift.
4. Once you load the initial settings you "dream up", you'll get an idea where you stand. Then it's a matter of periodic tinkering and "fine tuning" to zero it in the way you want it. I did do a few more graphs, (mostly to get my light throttle down shifts to the sensitivity that I wanted) but most of it was slightly adjusting my initial settings.....a little at a time. I'd say that I drove it for maybe a week or two between adjustments, again making notes on what I wanted to change. I'd also date the changes, so I knew what was what.
5. My current light throttle up shift schedules are are all above 2000 RPM (most ~2200-2300 RPM), all the light throttle down shifts require very little application of throttle (absolutely no lugging the engine) to force a downshift, and my 4-5 light throttle upshift is set for ~69 mph. Since my FRI Sidewinder cam works better at a higher RPM, almost all my highway driving is in 4th gear....~62-67 mph, or ~2100-2300 RPM. This also maximizes my MDS "on" time. My usual highway fuel economy is ~20-24 mpg (mostly 21-23 mpg) depending on the never-ending wind. Just got back from a 185 mile trip today and mileage was 22.4, figured with a calculator.....185 miles, 8.25 gallons of non ethanol 91 octane fuel.
Hope this gives you some pointers, and if you have any other questions, I'll try to help any way I can.
06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.