I have a 2007 3.0L CRD with about 40K miles on the clock. The other day the car stalled completely without warning in the middle of traffic. Had it winched onto a rescue truck and brought to my local trusty mechanic (not a Jeep specialist but with plenty of diesel engine experience).
I had read a lot about the Crankshaft Position Sensor issues on this vehicle so I ordered one immediately and had it shipped to my mechanic over the weekend. He installed it first thing after the (holiday) weekend but it made no difference. Engine turned over but still would not fire.
Eventually he discovered that a fuse on the Power Distribution Centre had blown. It was fuse # 16 which is labelled IPM/Coils. He replaced the fuse with an identical one (10A) and the engine fired up immediately. I drove the car home without a hitch. However, the very next day I had the same issue. This time I had a spare fuse and replaced it and the engine started again as expected.
I have since discovered that this very critical fuse (#16) is listed with a 25A - rather than 10A - rating and so I'm thinking I'll replace the 10A with a 25A one. However, some questions:
What is Fuse #16 protecting - some components within the IPM? I have a diesel engine so coils don't come into the equation.
Has anyone experienced this issue before?
By replacing the 10A with a 25A am I going to move the issue from the fuse to somewhere else where it may hurt more?!
Could this be related to the infamous Swirl Motor issue (i.e. is this a symptom)
NOT a symptom of swirl motor. Bad swirl motor makes you limp, not die.
Thanks Chirpz. I have read a lot of the comprehensive material you have posted on the swirl motor and I may be taking some premptive measures in the near future. I'm glad to hear that your opinion is that my swirl motor is not the issue on this occasion.
Any idea where I could get my hands on the wiring diagram for my vehicle? I'd really like to see what could suddenly be causing this fuse to blow (albeit a seemingly under rated fuse).
I can't imagine why the previous owner of this car would have swapped a 25A fuse for a 10A so I'm of the opinion that this 10A fuse was factory fitted. My thinking is that maybe as the diesel engine obviously doesn't have ignition coils, the lower rated fuse (10A) is installed in this slot for this model where a 25A fuse may be fitted on the petrol engine version.
Anyone else like to check what fuse they have in slot 16 of the Power Distribution Centre of a 3.0L CRD WK?
By the way. I'm thinking my next course of action will be to replace the 10A fuse with a 15A and see what happens over the next day or two. Could be that 10A is marginal for whatever this fuse is protecting.
Thanks ianrmz250 and dieseljeep07 ... I stuck a 25A fuse in there and have been running fine for the past 2 days. Strange that the 10A fuse had been doing the job since I bought this car nearly 2 years ago and suddenly there's more current flowing through there to necessitate a bigger fuse. I guess maybe it was always marginal and some small change in the current draw was enough to blow the fuse.
Following up on my blown fuse issue. After I put the correct 25A fuse into slot #16 of the Power Distribution Centre everything was fine for a few days. However, that wasn't the end of it. Next thing I got was the amber engine light plus red throttle light and no acceleration (limp mode I guess). I checked for codes and P2015 came up. Thanks to all of the available information on this forum I knew immediately that I had swirl motor trouble. Rather than spend a lot of time and money on a swirl motor refit, I decided to go for the easy option and wasted no time in getting my hands on that 4.7K resistor and fitted it into the swirl motor connector. Since then (about 2 weeks ago) no issues.
My feeling is that my original issue - fuse blowing in slot #16 was a precursor to the swirl motor giving up. I'll never know why the previous owner put a 10A fuse into a 25A position but regardless - given that I had been driving trouble free for 2 years before that fuse blew, followed very quickly by the P2105 code I'm convinced the 2 events are linked. It's kind of academic at this stage but thought I'd share this conclusion with you anyway.
Thanks for the update. Also I can't say enough good stuff about how well my Green Diesel Engineering Tune worked, which will also bypass the swirl issue. Plus you will see increased fuel economy, throttle response and torque.