Smokey the 2005 WK 4.7L (Re) Build - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 236 Old 10-04-2016, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
nathanjaybar
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Next up was the fuel rail. With it all apart, and with the cost being so inexpensive, I opted in to replace both upper and lower o-rings for all injectors. It looked like someone had replaced the upper ones at one point, but the bottom ones looked original. With a little coat of clean motor oil they slipped right in to the rail with no fight.

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With all injectors in place on the rail, I carefully installed the rail and injectors back onto the engine. You have to kind of shimmy it on there, as you're trying to get all 8 injectors to sit properly at the same time. Here's a close up of one after screwing the rail into place, then a shot of the whole assembly installed.

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Spark plugs were next. These are not performance or special plugs, very much stock plugs. These are the same ones I'm using on my '06 that I've been running for 15K or so miles. With a little anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the node, they were ready for install.

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Once all the plugs were in I installed all the coil packs I plugged them in, along with the EGR valve and fuel injectors, then installed the vacuum lines, along with other miscellaneous plugs here and there.

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'06 WK 4.7L V8 4WD | Recently purchased '05 WK 4.7L V8 4WD
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post #62 of 236 Old 10-05-2016, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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The A/C compressor and alternator went on next. Each are held on by pretty much the identical 3 types of bolts that secure them to the timing chain cover and heads. I also realized that I skipped the install of the power steering pump in my last posts. That too is held on by 3 bolts, all on the front of the driver side head.

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I rented a harmonic balancer installer, however it was not compatible with this engine.

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I was a little irritated at first, but I ended up just using the crankshaft bolt to drive the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft. I used a Scotch-Brite pad to clean the surface of the balancer, then put a little clean motor oil on both the inside surface of the balancer and the outer surface area to insure it would not damage the new seal on install.

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I could only tighten so far before I started cranking the engine, and that bolt needs to be set at 130ft/lbs. I had some thicker rope I used to essentially tie the harmonic balancer to the front sway bar to give me the leverage to hold the crank still. I saw this done with chains on Youtube some time back, which is where I got the idea.

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Once that was done, the serpentine belt was installed.

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At this point the top end is pretty much done. I just need to install the intake so the air intake sensor will read properly and not throw a code when it starts up. I still have to put the bottom back together, which includes the windage tray, oil pan, O2 sensors, y-pipe/exhaust and cross member. That and a little oil and I should be turning her over soon. I did a few of the above listed already, but I still have a couple pictures I need to snap, so that's it for now.

'06 WK 4.7L V8 4WD | Recently purchased '05 WK 4.7L V8 4WD
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post #63 of 236 Old 10-05-2016, 05:41 AM
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Hah! Yeah the installer tool seems to be mopar-specific. Both times now, I just used a block of wood and a hammer to get it started, then finished it off with the bolt. I did see a post somewhere about ordering a longer bolt from fastenal, but that seems like too much work.

You're close man, I can almost hear that engine firing up!

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'02 Laredo 4.7L / OME HD & Billies / 255/70R17 GG AT2

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post #64 of 236 Old 10-05-2016, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanjaybar View Post
The last thing I needed to do before installing the valve covers was to tighten down the camshaft bolts. 90ft/lbs is a little bit of a pain on those small bolts.

Attachment 3054313
Attachment 3054321
Wait, 90 ft/lb? Nuhh uhh. No way.

When I did a 4.7 cam swap many moons ago, I recall borrowing a nice dial type torque wrench because the spec was around 100 INCH POUNDS

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post #65 of 236 Old 10-05-2016, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Wait, 90 ft/lb? Nuhh uhh. No way.

When I did a 4.7 cam swap many moons ago, I recall borrowing a nice dial type torque wrench because the spec was around 100 INCH POUNDS
100 inch-pounds is for the bearing caps. Easy stuff. 90 foot-pounds is for the camshaft sprocket. That sounds about as bad or worse than the 130ft-lb required for the crankshaft bolt.


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post #66 of 236 Old 10-05-2016, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xTroy View Post
100 inch-pounds is for the bearing caps. Easy stuff. 90 foot-pounds is for the camshaft sprocket. That sounds about as bad or worse than the 130ft-lb required for the crankshaft bolt.
Yup.

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post #67 of 236 Old 10-06-2016, 04:09 AM
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Ahh, then that clarification needed to be made IMO. I read it as the cam cap bolts since you said it was 'a pain on those small bolts'...the sprocket bolts are very easy to get at.

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post #68 of 236 Old 10-06-2016, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Ahh, then that clarification needed to be made IMO. I read it as the cam cap bolts since you said it was 'a pain on those small bolts'...the sprocket bolts are very easy to get at.
Aaaah gotcha. I was more referring to holding the cams firmly enough to stand up against cranking down 90ft/lbs, being a pain.

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post #69 of 236 Old 10-06-2016, 09:58 AM
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Totally understood

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post #70 of 236 Old 10-09-2016, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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To install the oil pickup tube you have to position the windage tray in place. Then the oil pan can then be installed.

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I made a time consuming mistake and forgot to put the support brace in position before installing the oil pan. That just meant I had to take the oil pan off, then right back on again.

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I tightened down the y-pipe at the exhaust manifolds, then at the muffler which wrapped up the exhaust install.

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One of my plugs for a fuel injector was broken so I ordered a replacement, this is after clipping the stock plug off and then with the new one in place.

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At this point I could start the engine. I took 2 videos, one of the engine priming with oil and then one with the start. I'll have to post those later. I've run in to some issues and have a couple codes being thrown that I'm addressing today. I'll post a bit later with details.

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post #71 of 236 Old 10-09-2016, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, let's start with the good stuff. Here's a video of the first start up after the rebuild:

2005 Grand Cherokee 4.7L - First Start After Rebuild
(I'm not sure how to imbed videos)

I am VERY excited she fired back up, however the job is far from done. First off, I'm sure you can hear from the video, the tap/knock is still very noticeable. Just to recap, when it was apart I checked for play on every connecting rod and even took 2 caps off to find near flawless bearings. (Check previous posts for pictures of bearings.) One of my neighbors took a closer listen and thinks the sound is coming from the top end. When I lean in I can hear the tapping coming from what seems to be from the top around cylinder 3 or 5. On higher RPM's the knocking almost completely goes away - mind you, I have not rev'd the engine above 2K RPMs. I wonder if this has to do with non-lubricated lifters/lash adjusters and might go away once I can actually drive the vehicle and splash some oil around the top end.

The engine is throwing some codes - P0016 and P0344:

P0016 - Crankshaft / Camshaft Timing Misalignment
P0034 - Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent

I purchased new camshaft and crankshaft sensors, cleared the DTCs, pulled the battery and started it back up. P0016 went away until I let the motor get to operating temp and it came back. I checked the wiring harness and they look fine, no frays or cracks. I've read that these codes can be thrown due to a bad starter however I need to read up a little more. I'm pretty sure the alternator needs to be replaced, the interior lights dim and flicker under any sort of electrical load (radio, heat, A/C). I have not tested the alternator, I plan to do that this week some time but I don't know if that's the true culprit.

So, I'm wondering if the timing is off. Even though I went back and did it a second time, triple checking my work before closing it up, there's always a chance. I was also considering taking it a little bit apart and lifting off the driver side valve cover to make sure oil is getting up there. Any ideas?

Also, if you notice in the video there were 2 attempts to start the Jeep. The third attempt I gave it some gas and it fired up. This is the case any time I want to start it. I need to feather the gas pedal for it to start. I have not checked the fuel pump relay, but if it's fine I'm assuming I'll need a new fuel pump. Anyone have thoughts on that front?

On top of all of this, I am only about half way done with removing the dreaded top axle bushing. What a friggin pain that thing is.

'06 WK 4.7L V8 4WD | Recently purchased '05 WK 4.7L V8 4WD
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post #72 of 236 Old 10-10-2016, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanjaybar View Post
I wonder if this has to do with non-lubricated lifters/lash adjusters and might go away once I can actually drive the vehicle and splash some oil around the top end.
Def. possibility. I have seen/heard this on vehicles that have sat around for lengths of time. It goes away eventually...

Be confident in your work. Slap some coolant in it and go drive it.
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post #73 of 236 Old 10-10-2016, 04:20 AM
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If that's coming from the top end, I'd be triple checking the timing and talking to whomever did the heads to see if those lifters were primed or what's going on...

For the video, if you use the URL out of the address bar (
) instead of the share link, JF will parse it for you. I'm not sure why they can't work with the share link as well, but hey... whatever works.

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'02 Laredo 4.7L / OME HD & Billies / 255/70R17 GG AT2

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post #74 of 236 Old 10-10-2016, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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I think I've figured it out. I believe the timing is off by a single tooth. I went back and studied the photos from the build. When I installed the main chain (crankshaft to idler) I had it upside down. Take a look at this diagram:

screen-shot-2016-10-10-8.10.45-am.jpg

The chain has 3 marks on it. The side of the chain with the 2 marks straddles the top gear marker, while the bottom single mark sits directly on the bottom gear marker. Looking at my photos, I did it backwards.

So, now I have to adjust the timing without pulling the cover off. If I get my hands on this tool:

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I should be able to do so. Not the end of the world, more of a pain. But I'm glad I found this out now. Maybe this is contributing to the ticking noise, I guess we'll see.

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post #75 of 236 Old 10-10-2016, 10:11 AM
takman
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I dont know much about this engine...but it's an interference engine right? On a lot of vehicles, being off a tooth would cause cause the valve to hit the piston. But you would know that when you cranked it over by hand before starting. At best, being off a tooth would cause hard starting, and rough idling/running.

If it's running smooth, and ticking, I'd saying its just the lifter....but i could be wrong. Just some thoughts.
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