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Unread 12-15-2013, 10:48 AM   #91
ASTMedic
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marysville, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeJeep09
Thanks, I am a newbie and joined after a search led me to this thread. I will search n23.
It should be on the first page here. There's a bunch of threads about the 4 low not working.

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Unread 07-08-2014, 09:45 AM   #92
melursus
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Location: nuremberg, texas
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I got it fixed (today and for the moment)

My mechanics diagnosed low voltage and charged the battery for a night. The problem ist gone for now. No flash, no parts.
The mentioned update I got a year ago.
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Unread 07-29-2014, 07:12 AM   #93
tate58
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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I've got a 2007 WH JGC CRD, and the service 4wd system showed up when trying to shift into 4lo. I came across this link, tried it, at to my surprise and relief, it worked. http://m.topix.com/forum/autos/jeep-...CFVJSBRAAALA0M
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Unread 07-29-2014, 10:58 AM   #94
06cdrmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tate58 View Post
I've got a 2007 WH JGC CRD, and the service 4wd system showed up when trying to shift into 4lo. I came across this link, tried it, at to my surprise and relief, it worked. http://m.topix.com/forum/autos/jeep-...CFVJSBRAAALA0M
That's called the "fuse pull trick" and it was noted in the other N23 thread back in January I believe..
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Unread 07-29-2014, 11:10 AM   #95
06cdrmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melursus View Post
My mechanics diagnosed low voltage and charged the battery for a night. The problem ist gone for now. No flash, no parts.
The mentioned update I got a year ago.
That is such malarkey (not you, but the battery issue).. In real world situations, batteries don't hold 100% of their charge for any more than three years, + or - a few months and to perform an adjustment that depends on 100% output, all the time and in all conditions is ludicrous and shortsighted, IMO. The tolerances are too tight.

Bottom line is that they released the software as a fix to a hardware problem and now it's causing more problems. New batteries cost $185 and new actuators cost $700 just to hide a problem that could more easily be solved by people using their parking brakes and testing a solution in real-world conditions.

I think it's time to say goodbye to any future Fiat/Chrysler consideration.
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Unread 04-16-2015, 09:33 AM   #96
efizzle
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Service 4x4 & Electric Brake System ... ONLY AT NIGHT

I've looked at these threads for awhile and haven't noticed anyone else drawing a correlation from the codes to the time of day. I've noticed I only receive these notifications when it is dark out. Is it a possibility there is a photosensitive sensor that could be the root cause? Any ideas? I've basically given up on the issue as I've been into the dealer numerous times where they always assure me that the problem is fixed.
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Unread 06-15-2015, 10:27 PM   #97
vjsimone
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Stipo - 2010WK - what was the no start issue? Fixed ??
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Last edited by vjsimone; 06-16-2015 at 09:52 AM.. Reason: Adding name
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Unread 08-04-2015, 12:00 PM   #98
modette
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This is how you check:

I made the video because no one really said HOW to check just some ****ty dude not really showing what to do. Found out my Service 4WD message was due to the rear axle Solenoid.

My 4wd system still worked so I knew it was not the FDCM (N23 bug), I also knew it was not the N23 because I have an unflashed FDCM ;-)

I'll post a how to change the Solenoid soon when the parts come in. This is easy enough to check yourself not sure why a dealer would have an issue checking this. No need to replace anything without checking this freebie method first.

What you need:
1) ohm meter
2) 18mm socket to remove seat

Check Pins:
22 & 14 (open circuit means replace)
23 & 14 (open circuit means replace)
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Unread 08-05-2015, 09:52 AM   #99
vjsimone
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When you meter beeps, isn't that a Complete circuit not an Open circuit. If your meter shows "OL" that would be an Open circuit. I'm asking, because you stated is was "Open" when it beeped.
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Last edited by vjsimone; 08-06-2015 at 10:03 AM.. Reason: Edit.
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Unread 08-05-2015, 12:50 PM   #100
oldsmoke
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There are a number of things that can cause the service light. The N23 recall was notorious for this so make sure you have that covered first if you are eligible for the free P 73 recall.

I set my service light off the other day when I had a few beers and decided to time myself on a brake standing 0-60 run. Posted codes for slipping transfer case clutch and transmission brake and one other one. Got my buddy to erase the codes and all is well. I guess I got a little spinning on the front axle when I launched hard. With traction control and the stability program (ESP) running these vehicles are engineered to never slip a tire so don't even think about stuff like laying a black mark or spinning donuts unless you turn off the traction control and ESP.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 06:40 PM   #101
modette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vjsimone View Post
When you meter beeps, isn't that a Complete circuit not an Open circuit. If your meter shows "OL" that would be an Open circuit. I'm asking, because you stated is was "Open" when it beeped.
I'm not hip on terms sorry, just a garage DIY'er
I corrected stuff in new video and corrected description.


oldsmoke - This had nothing to do with N23. My Service 4WD Message is now gone. I don't have an N23 issue, I fixed that with an unflashed FDCM way back when people were running back and forth to the dealer 100 times. No Thank you. Time is money.

It was the Front Actuator/Solenoid.
Parts - Front Axle
52114327AC HARNESS, Electronic Front Axle,With [DSG]
52114003AF ACTUATOR, Axle Locker, With [DSG]

Parts - Rear Axle
52114328AC HARNESS, Electronic Rear Axle, [DSF] Only
52114003AF ACTUATOR, Axle Locker, [DSF] Only

Dropping the Front Axle:
1) Remove Skid Plate
2) Remove Vent Line
3) Remove Connector Wire
4) Remove the Propeller Shaft (4-bolts)
5) Remove the three bushing mounts (3 bolts; 15mm and 20mm needed)
6) Use Bottle Jack to tilt/position the axle down to get to the 10 bolts (16mm needed)
7) Leave two bolts on and put pan under axle to catch old fluid when you open up the housing
8) Replace Actuator/Harness, clean housing and replace housing cover
9) Reverse rest of the steps adding fluid at the end till it runs out of the fill hole

What you need:
1) Basic Tools - 15mm, 16mm, 20mm,extensions (mainly for propeller shaft and the one bushing bolt)
2) 13mm Hex Socket - Use a 13mm wrench on end to remove cap
3) RTV for Axle Housing Cover
4) 2 Quarts of 75-140 Diff Fluid; I used Royal Purple so no anti wear additive needed). You will use about a quart and a half.

I hope this helps someone.
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Unread 08-14-2015, 08:48 AM   #102
oldsmoke
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Time is money

Yah, no kidding!! The run around the dealer gave me with N23 was ridiculous. I put in an unflashed fdcm about a year ago. I just mentioned the P73 because it is free and worth a try for those who have the N23 flash.

Glad you were able to DIY it and thanks for posting up your procedure. I think you are the first to find and fix this problem on the forum. Was there a fault code that pointed straight at the actuator?

Interesting to see in your photo the diff cover has 10 bolts. Many people have claimed the ELSD has 12 bolts.
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Unread 08-14-2015, 10:34 AM   #103
modette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsmoke View Post
Yah, no kidding!! The run around the dealer gave me with N23 was ridiculous. I put in an unflashed fdcm about a year ago. I just mentioned the P73 because it is free and worth a try for those who have the N23 flash.

Glad you were able to DIY it and thanks for posting up your procedure. I think you are the first to find and fix this problem on the forum. Was there a fault code that pointed straight at the actuator?
No code, at least with the AutoZone scanner they use.

How it started.
Every once in a while for the last 2 months I would be driving and the "Service 4WD Message would come on" but then go off and stay off. One day I started the Jeep and it stayed on, I tried to reset it with disconnecting the battery to clean any codes, then when it came right back I went to Autozone and was told no codes and no codes stored. (of course those dingbats were like oh it's just a service warning you need to reset).

This is the video I found, it's pretty slow going video but he did in the comments give me a lead on the wires at the FDCM to check:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq0_8PM7BeM

I do see the procedure is listed in the Service Manual (I should have checked there). duh!!! LOL

How I knew it was not N23, besides having an unflashed FDCM the first thing I tried was putting the vehicle in 4Lo which worked just fine. So I drove with the silly "Service 4WD message" on for a bit (I don't drive much maybe once a week). I ordered up the parts and thinking it was the rear (my mistake in understanding that guys write up) I figured doing the rear is what a 30 minute job at most. So I ordered the parts. Come to find out I had whether or not the circuit was complete backwards in my mind to working or not working.

In a positive way to think about the front axle at least it got totally cleaned out and all fluid changed. It was due and I dreaded doing event he pumping method to suck it out and replace what you can...at least now it's cleaned up good and should last me. Also the gears look like normal wear which is good as per the Service Manual. So remember that people even if it's the FRONT your Jeep probably needs the case open and it cleaned out, the old actuator was pretty thick in crude. The wire was so fragile (probably from heat cycles).

I also had a small coolant leak at the thermostat which had been replaced. So I took that off and fixed that small leak. I think the flush metal piece was not sealing tight, cleaning it, a little RTV and then put it back together I think fixed the issue. But that was so small and not related to this issue. Just fixing small stuff while I am elbow deep in working on the vehicle.

Being that checking the FDCM is a 10 minute job to pull the rear seat (two 18mm bolts) that is a no brainer to check your actuators in the axles (also called solenoids). You can rule them out real quick.
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Unread 08-14-2015, 11:44 AM   #104
oldsmoke
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Doh....Front axle. I gotta learn to read more careful. Wonder if one of those ELSD carriers could be grafted into my QuadTrac2 front axle and rigged up to a switch to act like a switchable locker?
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