Replacing the Serpentine belt - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum > Replacing the Serpentine belt

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsEnd of Summer Sale, 20% OFF!

Reply
Unread 08-24-2011, 06:49 PM   #1
multihulls
Registered User
2006 XK Commander 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Posts: 15
Replacing the Serpentine belt

Has anyone changed the serpentine belt on their V6 diesel? My XH Commander has now done 100,000 km, the belt is showing signs of cracks in the rubber and the other week the idler pulley started making noise. It must have had too much dust and mud in it over the last 4 years. I sprayed some CRC into bearing area and this has calmed the noise down until I do a replacement.
My question is has anyone replaced the serpentine belt and can advise on the process involved? It looks like I may need to take a few parts off so I can loop the belt onto all the various pulleys and drives etc.
I look forward to your helpful advice and any video links etc.

multihulls is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-27-2011, 06:52 AM   #2
multihulls
Registered User
2006 XK Commander 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Posts: 15
Can anyone give me some help and advise on this subject?
multihulls is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-09-2011, 05:01 AM   #3
multihulls
Registered User
2006 XK Commander 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Posts: 15
Here's how I replaced the Serpentine belt-XH Jeep Commander

Jeep XH Commander Serpentine Belt replacement procedure
Here are the instructions I have pieced together after replacing the Serpentine belt on my 06 XH Commander. This was done without removing the front grill or radiator. It can be a very tricky and frustrating procedure. Patience is required and it will take approximately 3 hours to complete. There's very little space between the engine and the radiators so if you’re not dexterous or have large arms you’re better off removing the grill and radiator.
Replacement recommended at every 160km or excessive wear as detailed below.
Under normal use, the serpentine drive belt should be inspected at around 80,000 km or after 3-4 years of service. If not replaced at this time, the belt should be checked each additional year or 20,000 km. Under severe and off-road conditions inspect the belt annually. When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small cracks that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib to rib are considered normal. These are not a reason to replace the belt. However, cracks running lengthwise along a rib (not across) are not normal. Any belt with cracks running lengthwise along a rib should be replaced. Also replace the belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Warning: The Spring Tensioner should not be disassembled because of high spring tension. The tensioner unit is serviced by replacing with new unit.


1. Alternator
2. Power steering pump pulley
3. Engine belt routing and tensioner release location
4. Crank
5. Tensioner
6.Water Pump
7. Air conditioner
8. Idler pulleys x 2


Belt removal:
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER. SLOWLY RELAX THE TENSION BACK TO THE STOP POSITION.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
2. Remove plastic engine cover. Remove top metal intercooler pipe. 1 x torx bolt (use 8mm socket as substitute) remove small torx screw at front to release and remove the large front connection clip inserted into the pipe so you can then remove this component.

3. Remove front black plastic Turbo Resonator. First place a clean cloth over this components top hole and secured with a strong rubber band to prevent any dirt or contaminates falling inside. Please note you don't need to remove the bottom rubber pipe from the Turbo Resonator.
The Turbo Resonator is held in place by 2 x torx bolts (use 8mm socket as a substitute). One is found on the L/H side at the top and the other well hidden behind the Resonator, it's 2/3 the way down the R/H side. This torx bolt angles up at approx. 45 deg. You need to use your 8mm socket on an extension to release the bolt then unscrewed with a hand driver. This is the tricky bit and very hard to reach and to see.

4. Remove the alloy belt bridge. (I’m not sure what is real name is) this component acts as a bridge over & around the belt. Remove the 2 torx bolts with an 8mm socket.

5. Now you’re ready to remove the belt. Release the belt tension and remove the belt. Use a 12 point, 17mm socket (1/2" drive) and a long handle with an extra piece of extension pipe for control and leverage to rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner (5) counter clockwise until it contacts its stop. (This is about a of a turn) A strong pin such as an Allen key can be inserted into the hole as seen in the diagram to hold the tensioner in the removal position but it is extremely hard to find this hole so I just got a second person to carefully hold the socket arm releasing the tension while I removed the belt. WARNING, watch out because this is dangerous and tricky. Remove accessory drive belt. Once the belt has been removed slowly rotate the belt tensioner clockwise back into its free arm position. Or use the Allen key or suitable pin to hold the tensioner in place ready for new belt installation.

Belt installation:
6. Position the serpentine drive belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the belt tensioner counter clockwise until it contacts its stop position. Route the accessory drive belt around the idler (8) and slowly let the belt tensioner rotate on to the belt. Make sure the belt is seated correctly onto all pulleys.
To finish off do a reversal of 5 back to 1
Reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
image002.jpg   image004.jpg   image006.jpg   image008.jpg  
multihulls is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-09-2011, 05:25 AM   #4
AJeepZJ
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Ft Bragg, MO
Posts: 3,575
There is also a video or two on youtube for this.
__________________
All Gear, No Skill.
AJeepZJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-09-2011, 08:46 AM   #5
BAH101
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 749
4-5hours, I don't remember it taking that long. The write up is pretty much like mine though. I used a long bar extension on my breaker bar to release the tensioner, it takes quite a bit of torque, but I was able to inset a drill bit into the holding hole to keep the tensioner out of the way. There are a couple of plastic points on your fan cover, these will tear up your arms when working there. I cut them off and sanded them smooth before starting. I also used an inspection mirror to see it the belt was installed around all the pulleys properly. It is a pain in the behind to replace, but not the worst job on the Jeep. The hardest thing for me was connecting the turbo connection to the outlet of the turbo resonator (the black kidney shaped thing), the first time it was not set properly and blew off down the road. You can limp back to your shop slowly though.
__________________
2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
BAH101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-11-2011, 10:58 AM   #6
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
I'm soon going to be doing this and looked at the turbo resonator. I can see how the clamp connecting the top of it to the pipe that goes to the turbo comes off. But what's up with the bottom end connection to the pipe that goes to the intercooler? It looks like some sort of wire c-clamp? You can see part of the clamp, if that's what it is, in the lower right of the first photo above. Am I seeing the right thing? How is it removed?


Thanks for all the instructions and the warning about sharp edges.

BTW I bought a replacement belt off an Amazon re-seller for $31 after shipping vs.local part store wanting $80 plus sales tax. I's a Goodyear "Gatorback" with cross grooves as well as the usual longitudinal grooves. Seems like it should work. I'll post something here once I get it installed. Goodyear PN 4070802. I also saw a belt advertised for about $35 from Contitech, but availability is questionable. One site sold it to me then half a day later told me it was out of stock and wanted to sell me another. Smelled like bait and switch to me.
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-18-2011, 01:41 AM   #7
oilverland
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Okanogan County, WA
Posts: 151
Replaced the belt today. I found I didn't have to disconnect the hose at the lower end of the turbo resonater. Just pushed the unit down and toward the passenger side. I didn't remove the top metal connector pipe to disassemble, but to reassemble I had to remove the bolt that held it in place. I had no problem finding the hole in the tensioner in which to insert an allen key. I use a really bright halogen light clamped onto a bike repair stand so maybe that helped.

Took me two hours, including retrieving the aforementioned allen key when I knocked it into the tangle of hoses near the botttom cover. But, I have very skinny arms and narrow hands with long fingers. I suspect this could be really hard to do if you have big hands and arms.

The funky Goodyear "Gatorback" belt seems to work fine.
__________________
2008 Overland Diesel QDII with mud flaps and Bilsteins.
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 with factory "upcountry" 1" lift and skid plates [traded in some years ago]
oilverland is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2011, 06:54 PM   #8
multihulls
Registered User
2006 XK Commander 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJeepZJ View Post
There is also a video or two on Youtube for this.
I haven't found a video of the removal procedure for the V6 3 litre diesel only for the V8 petrol models. These have a totally different set up. Maybe if you have found a video for the Merc V6 diesel you could post the link for us. Thanks.
multihulls is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-20-2012, 07:45 PM   #9
BAH101
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 749
Replaced my belt and fuel filter, two hours total. My old belt had 60000km on it, looks like new, you could even read the p/n still on it. Could have gone a lot longer. Guess I will keep it as an emergency spare.
__________________
2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
BAH101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-10-2014, 11:49 PM   #10
PDragon
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Edmonton, Alberta (Canada)
Posts: 46
Hi guys, How did you manage to remove the resonator from the jeep? I found that the there's a flap attached perpendicular-ish to the resonator that doesn't let me pull it through the pipes and bars at the bottom of the jeep ( I believe is the flap used to attach the resonator to the motor, between the lower and upper hoses).
Also: How do you make sure the resonator is properly attached to the hoses?(so you don't drive away and enter in limp mode) Does the top C-clip (which I assume one needs to place last) give any trouble to align with the small front-facing torx bolt? Thanks!
__________________
2007 WK CRD Laredo / QDII / GDE Eco tune / +210,000 kms
PDragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #11
BAH101
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 749
I didn't have any problem with the top, just the bottom. I now just undo the top clamp, the bolts and let the resonator just sit on the bottom clamp. It gets in the way a bit, but lot easier than attaching the clamp. Don't forget the upper o ring also.
__________________
2008 CRD QDII, OME HD, Pintlers wheels with 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armour's, Jeepinbyal UCA's. 4XGuard Front guard, Side Guard, belly guard, Matrix HC. GDE ECO Tune w/ delete.
BAH101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-11-2014, 08:05 AM   #12
PDragon
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Edmonton, Alberta (Canada)
Posts: 46
Thanks Bah!
__________________
2007 WK CRD Laredo / QDII / GDE Eco tune / +210,000 kms
PDragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.