I drive (drove?) a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 5.7L hemi for the last 100k miles with absolutely zero problems and ahead of schedule maintenance and such.
This jeep has been taken immaculately care of both with ahead-of-schedule maintenance and driven like an old man on back country roads. Yesterday after a long day of backroad driving and no problems or engine linghts on, I stopped at home briefly. After, my Jeep wouldn't budge after trying to start. it cranked and eventually turned over with some gas, but that just made some hideous noises so I shut it down immediately.
Then I had it towed to a local shop that I soon learned does questionable work.
Their diagnosis: Something in the valve train broke apart and fell down into the cylinder. So the piston was smashing that chunk of debris, which destroyed the top of the piston and the piston walls. The chunk of whatever is probably the size of a quarter.
They recommend replacing/swapping the motor completely with a manufactured (refurbished?) motor, which comes with a 100k mile, 3-year warranty covering parts, labor and everything in any state. That, they said, would run me about $6,000.
I asked if they could rebuild the motor and address the specifically damaged parts to save money, and they said they would strongly advise against that.
Am I being hosed? Is there a better way to fix this? I've done research, and used or rebuilt 5.7L hemis for my year run about $$1,500 to $3,000, depending on mileage and quality.
Find an alternate garage to deal with: "Then I had it towed to a local shop that I soon learned does questionable work.
What area are you in? I am sure there will be someone on the forum that lives nearby and can advise you on a reputable mechanic.
Your problem is probably the dreaded dropped valve seat. It is more common than it should be, and it usually happens to 05's and early 06's. I think they fixed the problem on the later models....I hope. I've got an early 05 Hemi LX and an early 06 Hemi WK, and I sure hope neither of mine take a dump. If they do though, here comes the 392 or bigger engine, built the way I want it.
If you're handy, you could rebuild yourself the exact way you want it. If not, Cleveland Pick A Part has a lot of late model, low mileage used engines for reasonable prices. Also, definitely find a reputable place to do the job. R and R'ing an engine isn't rocket science. The rebuild they're probably talking about is a Jasper rebuild.
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.
06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
I agree if there's any question about the integrity of the shop I would go elsewhere .6k maybe on the high side depending on the quality of the rebuild but quite high for used though .if I were you I'd invest 100 bucks or so for a borescope or inspection scope pull the plugs and have a look at the cylinders .or make the current shop show you because that's how they did it .
I am going through this on my wife's Commander Limited, ProMar Engine in NJ will sell a Re-Manufactured Long Block with 3 year unlimited mileage warranty for $3000 with free shipping to a commercial location, you must return the core within 30 days or be charged. I am fortunate that I can do the work myself so I cannot offer any insight in having a shop do the work.
Looking to purchase 2 BT Catch Cans PM if you have one or two for sale.
Silver WK Club #46
06 WK Overland
OEM Parkview Rear Camera
4XGuard Front Skid
4XGuard Rock Rails
04 TJ Rubicon Silver
Rokmen Fuel Tank Skid
Rokmen Front Skid
Rokmen Tummy Tuck
Ground Pounder Fab Front Bumper
Warn M8000 Winch
If it is your daily driver, go with a re-manufactured engine. A re-manufactured engine is completely taken apart, cleaned, measured, and all internal parts are replaced if they are out of specification. That type of engine will go the distance.
A rebuilt engine primarily replaces the broken parts and a few others. While it may work well you are rolling the dice on dependability.
Jasper is a well know re-manufacturer. Go to their website and they will give you a list of recommended installers for that engine.
If price is an issue you may find a low mileage used engine on ebay sourced from a recent accident. Find the Jasper recommended engine installer to source the ebay engine for you so you get the right one. Looks like ebay prices range from $2,000 to $3,500. Installation is probably about $1,200 to $1,500.
Thanks for all the help. I had it towed from the crappy mechanic to an outstanding mechanic not far away. The crappy mechanic was SO happy about this, that he called my cell phone and made sure I knew he doesn't work for free, and he won't release my car until I pay $200 for the diagnostics. I paid him, said, "You probably need it more than me," and let him know the other shop doesn't charge for diagnostics and perhaps that's one of the reasons why folks would pay to have their car transferred over there.
As y'all suggested, I'm ordering a re-manufactured motor, which the new mechanic will be calling me with options to discuss. And he offered to do any and all work to order and install the new motor for a flat fee of $675. Even offered to take out the new spark plugs, boots, intake and any other parts on my current motor that look to be in better shape than the one that comes in, just so I don't see a downgrade in quality. Plus, the new motor had about half the miles of my current one before being remanufactured.
Total cost: ~5,000 (with 5-year warranty)
Quick question again for anyone who might be able to answer; what happens to my old damaged motor? Does it get scrapped for a few bucks? Sold to be remanufactured? Can I Make back any of my money with it? Or is it worthless?
You guys have been more helpful than two mechanics and three towtruck drivers combined (and one mechanical engineer, my brother). So, thank you.
I would expect your old motor will have to be sent back to the company providing the new/rebuilt/used engine. They usually add a "core charge" to the price of the new engine which is refunded when the old one is returned. The core charge is normally several hundred dollars which is likely more than you will get for your scrap motor. Never hurts to ask about that detail tho.
06 Laredo - 4x4 V6 - Stone White - Custom LED Cargo Area Lights, Lighted Visors Added - now at 49k miles
97 Laredo - 4.0 4x4 Daily driver for 8 years then relocated to Arizona for 6 more years with the relatives
Glad you found a decent shop! As for the old motor, you paid a core charge when you bought the re-manufactured motor, right? I'd think they'd inspect the old one to see if it's worth rebuilding, and if not, then they'd probably keep what parts are good and scrap the rest.