[MagJeep]

Im about to put my spacers on, 1.5 rough country, with blue thread locker.

When i re-torque/check the tightness, will the thread locker get messed up?

Idk why I just thought about this, probably a silly question though.

Also, someone said to use Red (permanent), what do you guys use?

[Static83]

Torque to 90/95 ft lbs, then when retorquing torque to 75/80. With thread locker they shouldnt move at all.
Use Blue.

[sk1er18]

If you properly torque them, they wont budge when you re-torque... which is really just a torque "check" to make sure they didn't loosen. Due to difference between static and kinetic friction, make sure the nut is moving at the time proper torque is reached. You can try re-torquing immediately and you'll see that it wont move because you'll need more torque to overcome static friction in the threads.

There's no reason to check the torque with a lower value. That defeats the purpose of checking it.

[MagJeep]

How do i keep the whole rotor from moving when tightening the spacers on? I'm just picturing it in my mind right now and i imagine them spinning as im trying to torque them in. i kmow the backs wont move b/c of the e brake.

[sk1er18]

If 4x4 just do one wheel at a time. With the other 3 down the one wont spin. Otherwise put lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and use a pry bar to stop it from rotating.

[MagJeep]

Originally Posted by sk1er18

If 4x4 just do one wheel at a time. With the other 3 down the one wont spin. Otherwise put lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and use a pry bar to stop it from rotating.

ohhhhh, haha i knew that was a dumb question. Thanks.

Also, there looks to be some anti seize left on the original studs, should i scrape that off with a wire brush?

[Static83]

Originally Posted by sk1er18

If you properly torque them, they wont budge when you re-torque... which is really just a torque "check" to make sure they didn't loosen. Due to difference between static and kinetic friction, make sure the nut is moving at the time proper torque is reached. You can try re-torquing immediately and you'll see that it wont move because you'll need more torque to overcome static friction in the threads.

There's no reason to check the torque with a lower value. That defeats the purpose of checking it.

This would be true if torque wrenches were 100% accurate, but they are not, they can be off by +/-10 ft lbs depending on quality.
The second torque is taking this into account to be sure you dont break the thread lock when retorqueing.

These are also close to the directions that come with the spidertrax spacers.

[Static83]

You can also just have somebody press the brakes

[MagJeep]

Originally Posted by Static83

You can also just have somebody press the brakes

Haha i thought about that too, but thought there had to be a better way.

[MagJeep]

I should scrape the anti seize off right?

[trax95008]

My 8 year old girl has become quite accustomed to operating the brakes while I work on the XK. From just holding it to loosen or tighten lugs, all the way to pumping them for a brake fluid exchange!

[Luck06]

I didn't use any thread locker on my spacers and they seem to be holding tight just fine. A couple of them loosened up a bit after about 300 miles, but after torquing them down the 2nd time they haven't budged. I just checked them last weekend during an oil change and they were still at 100 ft/lbs after 3k miles.

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[Static83]

Originally Posted by MagJeep

I should scrape the anti seize off right?

Yes, I would.

[MagJeep]

Im sure they'd be fine without it, but it cant hurt, right? Plus its only medium strength. What do ppl even use the red for???

[Static83]

Fine without thread locker? I would say no, unless you want to constantly be checking the torque, not sure if I would trust wheelspacers without the locktight to be honest.