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The Cure for your Tie Rod Roll!Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineOffset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!

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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:16 PM   #1
JawjuhJeep
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RC BB Install Help/Advice

I'd like to start off by saying long time lurker and military jeeper here, and this is my first thread!

So I recently picked up my RC 2" BB lift and I started today. Knew the front end was gonna suck so I thought I'd might as well hit that one head on...aaaaand I'm stuck. Here is my problem:

I can't get the upper ball joint to remove from the upper tie rod.




I can't get the tie rod to separate from the knuckle.




And while I was able to remove the lower strut bolt from the pax side, I can't remove the one on driver's side.




Let me know if you can't see the pics. More importantly, let me know if I'm doing something wrong and/or you know something I don't or have some advice. Thanks for the help in advance and I know, I know: FNG.

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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:30 PM   #2
BoraBora
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I ran into that ball joint problem too, just have to use a heavier hammer and give it a few good hits. However, to get around this you can simply unbolt the upper control arms and move the entire assembly out of place while you remove the coil.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:32 PM   #3
JeepN4KC
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For the UCA ball joint - smack the flat spot on the upper part of the knuckle with a hammer. Swing it like a man, hit it good and solid - the joint will pop out.

The lower tie-rod end - shouldn't even need to disconnect that.

The driver side clevis - what can you not remove on the driver side? The nut from the bolt? The bolt from the lower arm/bushing? If you have the nut off (remember, the bolt will not spin because of the tab on the bolt head) just drive it out of the bushing with a hammer. Lube it good with penetrating oil and consider heating the bolt head with a torch. The expanding/contracting of the steel heating/cooling will help break it loose.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:44 PM   #4
JawjuhJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
For the UCA ball joint - smack the flat spot on the upper part of the knuckle with a hammer. Swing it like a man, hit it good and solid - the joint will pop out.

The lower tie-rod end - shouldn't even need to disconnect that.

The driver side clevis - what can you not remove on the driver side? The nut from the bolt? The bolt from the lower arm/bushing? If you have the nut off (remember, the bolt will not spin because of the tab on the bolt head) just drive it out of the bushing with a hammer. Lube it good with penetrating oil and consider heating the bolt head with a torch. The expanding/contracting of the steel heating/cooling will help break it loose.
Awesome thanks for the help, and yep its the bolt that won't come out. I beat on if for awhile (giggity) but it wouldn't budge.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:45 PM   #5
BoraBora
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Just noticed you're from Northern VA as well. Let me know if you need a hand.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:45 PM   #6
JawjuhJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoraBora View Post
I ran into that ball joint problem too, just have to use a heavier hammer and give it a few good hits. However, to get around this you can simply unbolt the upper control arms and move the entire assembly out of place while you remove the coil.
How hard is it to unbolt the UCAs? And do the bolt on both sides of the strut?
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:47 PM   #7
JawjuhJeep
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Originally Posted by BoraBora View Post
Just noticed you're from Northern VA as well. Let me know if you need a hand.
Yeah man, didn't even see you're from McLean. I might hit you up if I can't make any headway, if thats cool.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 05:52 PM   #8
JeepN4KC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JawjuhJeep View Post
Awesome thanks for the help, and yep its the bolt that won't come out. I beat on if for awhile (giggity) but it wouldn't budge.
In that case, also remember to run the nut out on the threads to the end of the bolt - so the nut is flush with the end. That'll give you a bigger surface area to whack with a hammer and it'll also serve to protect the tapered end of the bolt.


If you have a compressor and the right tools you can drive it out with a chisel or air hammer, but a bfh will get it done.
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Unread 12-29-2014, 02:25 PM   #9
Jtav2012
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Wish I could help, but I'm barely competent with anything more complicated than a hammer. I was just afraid there was a problem with the kit itself, when I saw the thread :P
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Unread 12-29-2014, 04:15 PM   #10
luckyse7ens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
In that case, also remember to run the nut out on the threads to the end of the bolt - so the nut is flush with the end. That'll give you a bigger surface area to whack with a hammer and it'll also serve to protect the tapered end of the bolt.


If you have a compressor and the right tools you can drive it out with a chisel or air hammer, but a bfh will get it done.
This is what I did. Left the nut on the end of the bolt Hit the sucker hard three times and it popped right off. Are you supporting the LCA? Don't. Let the weight of the work for you.
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Unread 12-29-2014, 06:34 PM   #11
JawjuhJeep
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Thanks for the replies, with a little muscle I finished the front! But..... New problem! lol I was finishing the last side of the rear when the bolt hold the bump stop broke off. It was super rusted. Any ideas? I only have hand tools, no drills. Will the tension from the spring keep the spacer in place?
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