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Unread 04-02-2014, 12:02 PM   #1
08CanuckCRD
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Prepping a 2008 WK CRD for Towing?

Hi folks,

I'm getting ready to buy our first travel trailer and am wondering if there's anything I should be doing to my 2008 WK 3.0L CRD to get it ready to tow? I know an electric brake controller will be necessary; I'm looking for pointers on the vehicle itself.

What I have done since buying the Jeep in Sept:
  • Oil & Filter change
  • Coolant flush and fill
  • New All-Season tires
  • New Fuel Filter

Brakes were redone (pads & rotors) at the dealership before I purchased. I may have them inspected just to be sure.

Anything else I should check/replace/keep and eye on?

I'm making quite a trip to pick up the new trailer (Kitchener, ON to near Concinnati,OH). It's about an 8-hour run not including border crossing time, so I want to be as sure as I can be that the Jep will handle the trip and the extra load safely and reliably.

Thanks in advance.

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Unread 04-02-2014, 12:13 PM   #2
Jaashua
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Haha its a crd. It will do fine.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 03:02 PM   #3
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Coming through Detroit? You could drive in for a GDE tune and get better fuel economy on the trip back. Just a thought.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 05:32 PM   #4
IIMacGyverII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDE View Post
Coming through Detroit? You could drive in for a GDE tune and get better fuel economy on the trip back. Just a thought.
Absolutely a great idea. I love my GDE Hot Tune!

Also, check your differentials and transfer case. If the fluids are barely tinted, they are fine, if they are dark, dirty, or stink, drain and fill them. 75-140 gear oil, and don't forget the limited slip additive. 2 qts per diff and 2 qts in transfer case. Here is a link for info:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...matio-1409139/

Check your trans fluid quality and quantity. You have the Mercedes transmission and it takes a special tool to check the level and you have to know the transmission fluid temperature. Since your towing it will be imperative to have the correct amount and quality fluid in your transmission. Here is a link for info:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...hange-1394418/

Also be sure to check your intake house from the filter to the turbo! There was a bad seal that would break and allow oil to leak out and cause swirl motor failures as well as let dirt in to your turbo. If dirt is entering your turbo it WILL destroy your turbo! If you have an orange seal that meets the turbo, you have the old house. If it is black then it is the new updated correct house that will not leak or allow dust in to your turbo.

Those are must do's... Well, the GDE tune is great but not must do! Here is a good recommendation, get a ScanGuage II. It's 150$ and it will allow you to monitor many different gauges on your motor. Most important of all being Transmission temp. You'll want to keep an eye on it while towing(i'm sure you'll be fine without it) but it's also very nice for checking your transmission fluid level since you need to know the transmission temp.

You're CRD is a towing machine. It will do very well! I tow 8500+lbs often and it never fails!
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Unread 04-02-2014, 06:55 PM   #5
08CanuckCRD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIMacGyverII View Post
Absolutely a great idea. I love my GDE Hot Tune!

Also, check your differentials and transfer case. If the fluids are barely tinted, they are fine, if they are dark, dirty, or stink, drain and fill them. 75-140 gear oil, and don't forget the limited slip additive. 2 qts per diff and 2 qts in transfer case. Here is a link for info:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...matio-1409139/

Check your trans fluid quality and quantity. You have the Mercedes transmission and it takes a special tool to check the level and you have to know the transmission fluid temperature. Since your towing it will be imperative to have the correct amount and quality fluid in your transmission. Here is a link for info:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...hange-1394418/

Also be sure to check your intake house from the filter to the turbo! There was a bad seal that would break and allow oil to leak out and cause swirl motor failures as well as let dirt in to your turbo. If dirt is entering your turbo it WILL destroy your turbo! If you have an orange seal that meets the turbo, you have the old house. If it is black then it is the new updated correct house that will not leak or allow dust in to your turbo.

Those are must do's... Well, the GDE tune is great but not must do! Here is a good recommendation, get a ScanGuage II. It's 150$ and it will allow you to monitor many different gauges on your motor. Most important of all being Transmission temp. You'll want to keep an eye on it while towing(i'm sure you'll be fine without it) but it's also very nice for checking your transmission fluid level since you need to know the transmission temp.

You're CRD is a towing machine. It will do very well! I tow 8500+lbs often and it never fails!
Thank very much for the detailed overview and the links! The GDE tune is on my wishlist, but for now I'll have to stick with the have-to-do's. I pass through Detriot a couple times a year at this rate.....

Differential fluids were checked OK when the oil was done. No idea on the transfer case or transmission fluids. I'll be checking out those links and getting them checked off my list.

Funny you mentioned the intake tube - I was having a poke around under the engine cover this afternoon and noticed oil residue on the turbo housing (the metal body that the intake tube feeds into, yes? Not a real car guy but I'm working on it!) The intake seems to have a black seal under the grime and a band clamp holding it to the (what I assume is) the turbo. The oil seemed to be coming from the CCV hose - leaking around the port where it connects to the intake. I pulled it off and cleaned it up before shoving it back on. Does that sound normal for a CRD or should I be looking at replacing that part? The CCV hose had an orange fitting at the end fwiw. Any advice on what to do with this is greatly appreciated.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 07:16 PM   #6
IIMacGyverII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08CanuckCRD View Post
Thank very much for the detailed overview and the links! The GDE tune is on my wishlist, but for now I'll have to stick with the have-to-do's. I pass through Detriot a couple times a year at this rate.....

Differential fluids were checked OK when the oil was done. No idea on the transfer case or transmission fluids. I'll be checking out those links and getting them checked off my list.

Funny you mentioned the intake tube - I was having a poke around under the engine cover this afternoon and noticed oil residue on the turbo housing (the metal body that the intake tube feeds into, yes? Not a real car guy but I'm working on it!) The intake seems to have a black seal under the grime and a band clamp holding it to the (what I assume is) the turbo. The oil seemed to be coming from the CCV hose - leaking around the port where it connects to the intake. I pulled it off and cleaned it up before shoving it back on. Does that sound normal for a CRD or should I be looking at replacing that part? The CCV hose had an orange fitting at the end fwiw. Any advice on what to do with this is greatly appreciated.
That's not really normal, the replacement intake tube comes with a new CCV tube and it can leak but I don't think it would. You should fix it if it is leaking.

You will have to take the intake tube off to verify that it is the black seal. It will appear black on the outside but it's orange on the inside if it's the old seal.

I'm betting you have the old intake and the leak is actually coming from the bad orange seal which is right next to the ccv valve tube but it could have been replaced and the oil is old from the old tube when it was leaking.

That being said, the swirl motor will eventually fail on its own and with the oil already all over the swirl motor, it will fail sooner than it would have on it's own. You should carry a 1$ resistor with you just in case or get the GDE tune which will ignore the swirl motor(on purpose) anyway and you won't have to worry about it ever. The GDE tune also removes the EGR function and stops the oil/exhaust build up that chokes the CRD's intake manifold over time because of the CCV dumping oil in to the intake which is what leads people to do the "Elephant Hose Mod" that effectively dumps the blow-by oil on to the road or in a catch can that you can empty later rather than the factory setup which dumps it in to your turbo and intake.

Here is a link to the swirl motor resistor fix:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/s...r-mod-1397852/
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Unread 04-02-2014, 07:38 PM   #7
08CanuckCRD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIMacGyverII View Post
That's not really normal, the replacement intake tube comes with a new CCV tube and it can leak but I don't think it would. You should fix it if it is leaking.

You will have to take the intake tube off to verify that it is the black seal. It will appear black on the outside but it's orange on the inside if it's the old seal.

I'm betting you have the old intake and the leak is actually coming from the bad orange seal which is right next to the ccv valve tube but it could have been replaced and the oil is old from the old tube when it was leaking.

That being said, the swirl motor will eventually fail on its own and with the oil already all over the swirl motor, it will fail sooner than it would have on it's own. You should carry a 1$ resistor with you just in case or get the GDE tune which will ignore the swirl motor(on purpose) anyway and you won't have to worry about it ever. The GDE tune also removes the EGR function and stops the oil/exhaust build up that chokes the CRD's intake manifold over time because of the CCV dumping oil in to the intake which is what leads people to do the "Elephant Hose Mod" that effectively dumps the blow-by oil on to the road or in a catch can that you can empty later rather than the factory setup which dumps it in to your turbo and intake.

Here is a link to the swirl motor resistor fix:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/s...r-mod-1397852/
Well, poop. Here I was thinking that maybe the previous owner had actually done some real maintenance on this thing..... Oh well, it looks like a straightforward-enough job even for me! It did seem to me that the oil was leaking around the CCV port on the intake, but I'm the first to admit I have an amateur's eye for engines. Not a great design, IMHO, though, when the CCV tube just pushes in without any way to clamp or fasten it there. I popped it out with 2 fingers!

Thanks for the link to the resistor fix. I had actually browsed that thread last week! Anyone know if the ready-to-go Resistor Plugs mentioned in that thread are still available to purchase? Might be a handy thing to have in the glove box just in case....

Question: if the intake tube gets replaced with the newer black seal tube, is the swirl motor still at risk? Is there a way to effectively clean the intake system on a CRD? I'm not competent to take on some of the tear-down-and-rebuild projects on the forum here, but I'd like to know what the options are (if any exist).

The GDE tune is starting to look very cost-effective next to all the potential repair bills....
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Unread 04-02-2014, 08:01 PM   #8
IIMacGyverII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08CanuckCRD View Post

Thanks for the link to the resistor fix. I had actually browsed that thread last week! Anyone know if the ready-to-go Resistor Plugs mentioned in that thread are still available to purchase? Might be a handy thing to have in the glove box just in case.... You'll have to PM the guy who was making those. I don't remember where to find it.

Question: if the intake tube gets replaced with the newer black seal tube, is the swirl motor still at risk? Is there a way to effectively clean the intake system on a CRD? I'm not competent to take on some of the tear-down-and-rebuild projects on the forum here, but I'd like to know what the options are (if any exist). With the new seal, the cause of the failure is removed so it won't continue to leak, however since it's already caked in oil.... You can try to clean it, but I doubt it will do you any good at this point because you won't be able to clean where you need to clean it.

The GDE tune is starting to look very cost-effective next to all the potential repair bills.... It is! That, combined with the mpg and power increases, is why it was the first thing I did to my CRD other than complete fluid flushing.

I'm sure all of this is a little daunting, it was for me, but don't worry, your CRD is an awesome vehicle and every problem you could possibly have, someone else has already had it, fixed it, and posted the solution here on JeepForum.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 11:30 AM   #9
08CanuckCRD
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Anyone got a source for a new intake tube??

Well, the intake tube turned out to eb the old orange-seal variety. Pulled it off, cleaned it up and attempted to celan up around the turbo as much as I could, though with 150000Km on the Jeep, I'm guessing the damage is already done. I'll be stocking a 4.7K resistor for the eventual/inevitable swirl motor fail. <sigh>

Anyone have a line on a place that sells the new black-seal intake tube at a reasonable price? My local dealer here in Kitchener, ON wants $180CAD for it!

So far the best online price I've seen is $75USD, but with shipping north of the border, it hits $125USD (about $140CAD). Better, but still ridiculous for what it is.....
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Unread 04-03-2014, 01:30 PM   #10
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This is where I got it:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/53013672ae.html

Mopar part number: 53013672AE

Also, because of the orange seal, inspect your turbo compressor wheel for damage. See this thread to see what CAN happen:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...amage-2114185/

That of course doesn't mean it will or has happened. You should check yours though.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 02:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIMacGyverII View Post
Also, because of the orange seal, inspect your turbo compressor wheel for damage. See this thread to see what CAN happen:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...amage-2114185/

Just to clarify, mine has the updated black seal. I believe the compressor wheel damage was from a damaged air filter gasket, and it then sucking in Florida sand.
I don't think much dirt would get into the turbo from on top of the engine due to a bad orange seal, but I may be wrong.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 03:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by caddydaddy View Post
Just to clarify, mine has the updated black seal. I believe the compressor wheel damage was from a damaged air filter gasket, and it then sucking in Florida sand.
I don't think much dirt would get into the turbo from on top of the engine due to a bad orange seal, but I may be wrong.
i hear you, it's unlikely with most OJ seals but mine and some of the others I've seen have had the seal ripped and some of it missing from part of the seal. My compressor wheel damage is most likely from the chuck of missing seal which was allowing a hole easily large enough to suck dust and dirt in past the filter and in to the turbo.
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Unread 04-04-2014, 05:20 AM   #13
08CanuckCRD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIMacGyverII View Post
This is where I got it:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/53013672ae.html

Mopar part number: 53013672AE

Also, because of the orange seal, inspect your turbo compressor wheel for damage. See this thread to see what CAN happen:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...amage-2114185/

That of course doesn't mean it will or has happened. You should check yours though.
Thank llMacGyverll. I think my compressor wheel is ok - had a look when I pulled the intake tube. Smooth leading edges on the vanes and spun freely. My orange seal was actually in one piece - no tears, rips or missing pieces - so maybe I got lucky on that one!

Fwiw, found an online source for the updated intake tube that doesn't charge an arm and a leg for shipping to Canada.Still gonna run me $110USD delivered, though. Right now I'm thinking I'll just drop into a few Jeep dealerships on my trailer-retrieval run in 2 weeks (Detroit to Cincinnati). Price may not be a whole lot better but I could change the tube out on the spot....

Thanks for all your help!
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Unread 04-04-2014, 10:48 AM   #14
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how heavy is the trailer you are towing and what is the tongue weight? the stock WK squats quite a bit with tongue weight. Monroe has load leveller shocks that are good and discussed in this forum. I have rear air bags from Airlift and they are wonderful.

heavy trailers (>3000lbs) should have a weight distributing trailer hitch and longer trailers (>18') benefit by an friction based anti-sway bar.

My comments are not crd specific.
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Unread 04-04-2014, 09:11 PM   #15
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I don't think you have to go that far. I just towed over 5k lbs and it was more than fine with out any air bags or sway control.
Brake controller is about all you really need
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