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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:19 PM   #1
enkeivette
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Possible causes of P0299 and ETC light?

Starting a new thread with all the info up top, since it took me awhile to narrow down the problem/ DTC.

Got DTC P0299 (low boost) and an intermittent ETC light flashing/ limp mode. When its not in limp mode, sometimes I can hear the turbo spooling, other times I cant, and its way down on power.

So, causes? I know the turbo is ok, it spins freely and there is no bearing play. So could this be a waste-gate/ actuator/ or pressure sensor issue? What is the usual suspect for P0299?

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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:45 PM   #2
suzieque
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p0299 has been turbo boot actuator or dirty MAF sensor. As a starting point, you could unplug the MAF sensor and reset the code and see how it runs. I disconnect my MAF quite often because it in turn disables the EGR and I like to run without EGR.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...4&postcount=19
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...7&postcount=28
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...60&postcount=4
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 03-26-2013, 01:37 PM   #3
enkeivette
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Where is the MAF sensor? In the intake just before the manifold I'm guessing?

Last edited by enkeivette; 03-26-2013 at 01:50 PM..
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Unread 03-26-2013, 01:40 PM   #4
enkeivette
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Is there no classic mechanical actuator on this? Just the black box electronic thing?
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Unread 03-26-2013, 02:06 PM   #5
suzieque
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nope. the airbox on the crd has 2 plugs on it. 1 plug is the ambient air pressure, its the smaller sensor at the back. the other plug is just on the hose leading to the turbo, that is the MAF plug, its four wires, unplug it and reset your error codes and start up and see if your vehicle runs and drives normal, except you will get a p0101 code eventually.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 03-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #6
enkeivette
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Deleted the codes, disconnected the MAF and the ETC and low boost codes seem to be staying away... we'll see, cross your fingers for me. And I can hear the turbo working.

It does shift funny sometimes at part throttle, but Im thinking that could be because the comp is confused without the MAF
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Unread 03-26-2013, 06:55 PM   #7
enkeivette
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Drove around almost the whole day with the MAF disconnected and without seeing the ETC light flash... but it just went off again. :/

So its the turbo actuator? Have I eliminated everything else? If it comes back with the MAF disconnected that means its not the EGR for sure? Is there any way to put a current across the actuator and test it?
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Unread 03-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #8
suzieque
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Disconnecting the maf shuts down the egr and the components related to egr function. The system defaults to certain parameters with respect to air fuel mixture. I often disconnect the maf because you will see a 10% increase in fuel economy. The problem is disconnecting the maf will set off the check engine light disable the dpf regen and i like the dpf regen myself. If your jeep has had check engine lights for a while then your dpf may have a stored regen waiting to happen.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:00 PM   #9
suzieque
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Well my belief is that the only thing left to check is for an air leak in your intake and hoses going to and coming from your intercooler. Look for telltale oil leaking out of joints and connectors.
If you see nothing then it suggests the turbo or turbo actuator and the actuator does not seem to be available separately.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #10
enkeivette
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I found a company that rebuilds Sprinter actuators, hopefully theyll do mine.

I just reset the comp, and had a friend brake torque the engine full throttle while I watched the actuator. Its not moving. Also, its way down on that initial massive torque peak. Accelerates more like a gas engine now.

I found a leak, already sealed it up. Didnt change anything.

Last edited by enkeivette; 03-26-2013 at 08:20 PM..
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:15 PM   #11
suzieque
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I spent a bit of time on the weekend looking at the actuator trying to find a way to reduce failures with the thinking that they are failing due to nearby heat sources. I wonder if the engine cover limits airflow around the actuator to much because it gets real warm under the engine cover. If I had a spare cover i would cut extra venting in it and measure temperature differences before and after.
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2008 WK "S" Limited bright metallic silver exterior, light graystone interior, 5 speed W5J400 transmission, June 18/2008 build, C213RE rear differential with 3.73 axle ratio, C200FE front differential with 3.73 axle ratio, 245/60R18 Goodyear Fortera tires (stock summer tires), NV245 transfer case, GT2056V turbo, 3.0L CRD (OM642.980)
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:35 PM   #12
jjt250
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Why not just take the cover off altogether? I have been running without mine for a couple months. The only difference I've noticed is that you can hear the engine more. I'd be willing to do some experimenting with it on and off if you'd like, though.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 09:13 PM   #13
enkeivette
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Does anyone have a link to a thread showing pics of the elephant hose mod? I did a search, cant find any, or even a decent description. Does it just involve blocking off the port on the intake tube in front of the turbo, and putting hose on the crankcase vent? Where does the electrical sensor right there go?
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Unread 03-27-2013, 06:49 PM   #14
enkeivette
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Changed out the fuel filter, problem is still there. It has to be the actuator, sending it out tomorrow. Cross your fingers for me.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 07:13 PM   #15
manny31
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did your issue go away. Im having same problem
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