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Unread 10-14-2014, 05:38 PM   #1
Beer_Me
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Ordered RC 2" lift. Any words of advice?

Tips or tricks to make it easier?

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Unread 10-14-2014, 05:58 PM   #2
B2LL2F
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The instructions make it sound super easy and everything swings into place ... but its a lie.
Use spring compressors- not that expensive and worth it. Put them on & take them off when the spring is already under compression (use a jack under the LCA) saves spinning a spanner for a long time.
the back is twice as easy as the front so do the front first.
There is a video on Youtube where someone installs the kit- handy to see the process. He spends alot of time kicking the **** out of the strut to get it back in... You dont need to do this.
I found it alot easier to just unbolt the lower mount of the front struts and hammer them off the bottom of the strut. Makes it easier to get the now longer strut back in.
You also dont need to remove the UCA.
WD40 alot of the bolts first
Use good quality Jack stands
Get a wheel alignment done once complete or it handles like **** and chews your tyres.
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Unread 10-14-2014, 06:16 PM   #3
luckyse7ens
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You can rent spring compressors for free from local auto parts stores.

I would try PBlaster, that stuff works great, start spraying bolts days in advance.

Take lots of pictures and post them. I like pictures.

Good luck
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Unread 10-14-2014, 09:55 PM   #4
JeepN4KC
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Unless I'm forgetting something when installing the RC leveling kit the spacer goes on top of the strut tower. If you aren't swapping struts you don't need to break down the strut cartridge (no need for spring compressors).

Otherwise, good penetrating oil (not WD40), air tools, good floor jacks (more than 1 is helpful), jackstands (2 sets can be helpful), breaker bar, a good buddy's extra hands, and by all means use spring compressors if you are changing the struts - respect the energy that those things are harnessing.

Good luck with the install.
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Unread 10-14-2014, 10:52 PM   #5
Keeslinger31
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All you need to remove on the rc lift is the upper ball joint and the upper strut bolts you should be able to push the lower a arm down far enough to get the strut back on with the spacer on top
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Unread 10-15-2014, 03:31 AM   #6
Brains72
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Just got mine last night. Hope to start working on it tonight.
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Unread 10-15-2014, 07:58 AM   #7
BlackGeep
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There are several step by step videos on YouTube for installing that lift. I used the one for the Old Man EMU and it made it much easier.

BlackGeep
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Unread 10-15-2014, 09:03 AM   #8
Beer_Me
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Tons of great info. Thanks everyone.

The plan is 2 floor jacks, 6 jack stands, compressor & tons of liquid wrench.

I'll check for vids on YouTube.
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Unread 10-15-2014, 12:13 PM   #9
luckyse7ens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
Unless I'm forgetting something when installing the RC leveling kit the spacer goes on top of the strut tower. If you aren't swapping struts you don't need to break down the strut cartridge (no need for spring compressors).

Otherwise, good penetrating oil (not WD40), air tools, good floor jacks (more than 1 is helpful), jackstands (2 sets can be helpful), breaker bar, a good buddy's extra hands, and by all means use spring compressors if you are changing the struts - respect the energy that those things are harnessing.

Good luck with the install.
Oh yeah

I mistakenly assumed a strut replacement was in the works
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Unread 10-15-2014, 04:09 PM   #10
TangoTango
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they have an install video on youtube
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Unread 10-15-2014, 05:32 PM   #11
B2LL2F
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I'm not sure if you can put the spacer on without completely removing the strut from the car- i never tried. You do have to grind the tips of the bolts down so if you can access those with the grinder then you should be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyse7ens View Post
Oh yeah

I mistakenly assumed a strut replacement was in the works
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Unread 10-15-2014, 05:38 PM   #12
luckyse7ens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B2LL2F View Post
I'm not sure if you can put the spacer on without completely removing the strut from the car- i never tried. You do have to grind the tips of the bolts down so if you can access those with the grinder then you should be fine.
You have to remove the strut assembly as a whole. The spring can remain mounted on the strut and the spacer is applied between the strut and the body of the vehicle.
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Unread 10-15-2014, 06:19 PM   #13
Brains72
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Please help working on this now. Taking out without removing yolk is a piece of cake. Any words of advice I'm putting back in. I have the LCA down but axle prevents yolk from pushing in further.

Please advice ASAP

Thanks
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Unread 10-15-2014, 06:31 PM   #14
Keeslinger31
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The spacer I had just slid over the factory bolts no trimming and then the nut goes on
You'll have to lift the spacer a tad and fit the nuts on
Im sure its easier to remove the whole strut but if you do just do the bolt that holds the strut to the clevis not the clevis bolt unless you want to put a new bushing in

I would raise it up put it on stands

Remove the wheel

Place jack under the a arm

Remove the upper ball joint bolt

Remove the abs wore from arm

Remove the tie rod and sway bar bolts

Lower the jack (upper ball joint will pop out so watch out for that)

Remove all the crap in the way up top
(Coolant reservoir, air box, battery, fuse box)

Loosen the upper control arm bolts

Remove the strut bolts

At this point either remove the strut from the clevis or try and push the a arm down with your foot hold up the upper a arm and squeeze the strut out from the wheel well and have the spacer ready with the bolts

You can remove the brakes and spindle and it will make things easier as well. And put less stress on your lower balljoint

I would remove everything just to make it easier
But it can be done without removing much

I would avoid the clevis bolt that goes through the bushing as the bolt rusts to the bushing ruining the bushing when you twist the bolt.



image-3408680266.jpg

Clears my old spacers
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Unread 10-15-2014, 06:33 PM   #15
Keeslinger31
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Pop the axle out of the diff

Im unsure what you mean by yolk?
Thats the end that the driveshaft bolts to
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