As some of you may know, I recently have finished the installation of my Oracle CCFL Demon Eyes and they look MEAN! I love the feedback that I have gotten from them and have gotten some requests to do a write up, so, here we go! Before I start, I would first like to apologize for the lack of pictures as I had minimal time to complete the install. I will be using pictures from Oracle though to help!
Installation time: 24 hours to 48 hours (if painting headlight bezels)
Here is what you will need:
1. Oracle Halo Kit Jeep Grand Cherokee Custom LED Lighting Accessories for SRT8 from ORACLE
(You can do just the headlights, I opted for headlights and fog lights)
2. Basic tools to remove the headlight/fog light assembly
3. Flat head screwdriver
4. Dremel or other cutting tool
5. Drill with a 2 mm bit
6. Silicone sealant to reseal headlight lenses Sealants : Permatex® Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant
7. Epoxy Loctite Epoxy Instant Mix 1 Minute from Loctite Adhesives
8. SPST relay (These can be found at any general parts store)
9. 16 and 18 gauge wire
10. In line waterproof fuse (Fuse at 10 amps)
11. A switch (Oracle supplies these, but make sure to request one when ordering the halo kit as they seem to forget sometimes)
12. Paint (If you want to paint the bezels)
13. If soldering, then simple soldering tools and solder. If not, fuse taps are recommended.
14. Latex gloves and a paint marker are recommended
15. An oven that can fit your headlights
Alright, that is all! Some basic electric knowledge does come in handy, but is not necessary.
The first step is to simply remove the headlights. To do so, I highly recommend removing the bumper as it is easier, it will end up taking less time, and is safer.
1. Start by removing the grille by removing the plastic push pins located across the top and remove the grille by leaning it outward away from the Jeep.
2. In each wheel well, there are two plastic (and later replaceable) rivets that need to be cut. I did this by slipping a knife behind them and carefully cutting through the plastic.
3. Above the two plastic rivets in the wheel well, there is a tiny bolt that connects the bumper and fender. Remove this on both sides.
4. Along the bottom of the front cross member, there are three 10 mm bolts that need to be removed. (assuming you have the front air dam removed already, if not do that first)
5. On top of the bumper cover near where the grille would meet the cover, there are four more plastic push pins that are to be removed as well.
6. From there, unplug the fog lights if you have them and you are ready to go! Slowly start to budge it away from each side. Then, remove it fully and place it somewhere safe!
Remove all bulbs from the headlight assembly. And now you have access to all of the bolts keeping the headlight assemblies in place. Note that on the passenger side, the air intake tube needs to be removed before the headlight can. This is done by simply pulling it away from the air filter box. After the bolts are removed, simply remove the headlights and take get the oven ready!
If you have not done so already, make sure that your headlight will fit into your oven. From here, preheat the oven to 230 degrees and get a cookie sheet ready. Remove everything you can off of the headlight assembly before moving on. I put down a slightly damp towel and placed the headlight lens down into the heated oven for 20 minutes. This part can be VERY tricky and takes time and patience. Remove the headlight and using a flat head screwdriver, CAREFULLY start to separate the lens from the housing starting with the high beam side. Slowly work the lens away from the housing and give yourself 2-3 minutes of separating before you heat the assembly again. I had to stick the headlight in the oven up to 5 times before I got the lens completely off. If you rush, you risk the sealant hardening again and possibly cracking your lens. Do the same to your other headlight.
While you were removing the lens, you may notice that the housing is a little warped where you stuck the screwdriver in. It helps to squeeze the lips with pliers to maintain a proper seal. It's easier to do this while it is warm, so I did this with a heat gun while I waited for the paint to dry on the bezels. I also went back while the paint was drying to heat around all areas of the lips to remove all of the old sealant.
Before you go ahead and paint (if you choose to or not), you want to get the drilling out of the way so there is minimal handling of the bezel after it is painted. WARNING, whenever you handle any reflective part of the bezels that you do not want painted, wear latex gloves. The reflective part of the bezel seems to be a coating that is easily smudged off. To find out exactly where you need to drill, grab your halo ring and line it up in the bezel so that the three areas circled in red are in contact with the bezel and so that the halo is centered to your liking.
Mark those points and use your drill with a 2 mm bit to drill where you marked. Do this for the high and low beams on both headlights.
Now you are left with three parts, the housing, the bezel (reflective part), and the lens. If you want to paint the bezels, now is the time. To paint the bezels, I recommend looking at this thread by Omelet: Omelet's Headlamp Project! - JeepForum.com
Like I said, while waiting for the paint to dry, I did my best to get other things done to save time. You can start by using the heat gun to remove the old sealant (I personally found this to be quite time consuming and a friend definitely came in handy), repairing the housing lips, and if you still have some time to spend, you can go ahead and open up your fog lights if you chose to get a set of fog halos too (See step eight)! Also, if you went ahead and got yourself a paint marker, use it on the back side of the halos to eliminate the back lighting effect.
Now that you have your bezels drilled and painted, the fun stuff is on its way. Wearing latex gloves, one halo at a time, run the wires through the drilled holes and make sure again that they line up as they did before. Now get your epoxy ready and hold the halo in place. Pace some epoxy on the backside of the halo on the three points that I highlighted above in the red circles. Let them sit, and if it needs the extra support, use some masking tape to hold it in place.
After waiting the recommended amount of time (said on the bottle of epoxy) you can move on to the next halo ring. Note, it the ring you just placed in has some play to it, you can add some more epoxy to it for a more secure bond. Repeat that process for all 4 halos. Let all of them sit while the epoxy sets. I allowed mine an extra ten minutes. Then check again to see if there is any play in any of the rings. If so, add the necessary amount of epoxy for reinforcement.
Now that you have your halo rings installed, it is back to the reassembly. If you have the LED version of the halos, all you have to do is run the wires out of the existing holes for the headlights. If you have the CCFL version as I do, you need to connect the inverters to the wires going through the bezels. Do this and from there, run the wires from the inverters out of the existing holes for the headlights.
You should now test to make sure that your halos work properly. Get a 9 volt battery and touch the negative wire from the inverter to the negative terminal on the 9 volt. Do the same with the positive wire. If there is a problem, check your connections. If there seems to be no solution, contact Oracle, they have great customer service.
Now you get to reassemble the headlight! Place the bezel inside the housing and get the inverter wires through their corresponding headlight hole (low beam halo wires go through the low beam hole and the same goes for the high beam). Using your sealant, run a constant bead through the lip of the housing and make sure to cover all areas. Then, replace your lens back where it goes and tape the lens to the housing for support. Repeat this step with your other headlight. The silicone sealant offer calls for some time for it to fully cure, so read the instructions carefully on the silicone to make sure that you get the best seal.
You can now move onto the wiring steps (step fourteen), but I chose to add fog halos too, so I will write how I did that next.
Onto the fog lights! These are a piece of cake compared to the headlights and take a fraction of the time! Begin by removing them from your bumper. They require a "star" type screw driver application to remove. I will find out exactly what that is soon. There are a few holding each fog light, but come out easily, especially with the bumper still removed. Then, just disconnect the wire to the bulb and you are set.
Remove the bulb from the housing and get your Dremel ready! Following the line where the lens and the housing of the fog light meet, I kept my Dremel blade steady for a clean cut (there is no way to remove the lens otherwise). After doing this to both fogs, I sanded them down to a nice, smooth edge.
I found out the hard way how weak the reflective coating is on these lights. I got a fingerprint on the inside of the fog light and tried to lightly buff it out with a microfiber. I noticed the smudge kept growing and after some research, I found that this cannot be undone. So, definitely be careful here. I decided to paint mine because of the smudge, but you can do so if you like the look anyhow.
In the same fashion that you did the headlight halos, line up the ring so that it has contact with the housing in the three circled areas below.
Do the same for both fogs.
There is no drilling required, so you can move right onto the epoxy. Place epoxy behind the ring at the three places circled above. Do the same as the headlight and make sure there is no play after drying. Do the same for both fog lights.
Run the wires through the existing breather hole.
Take the black breather cap and drill a 2 mm hole through it so that you can reuse the cap. Run the wires through the cap and place the cap back where it was over the breather hole.
Now is the time to connect the inverters and test the rings just as you did with the halos.
With the rings epoxied in place, it is now time to replace the lens. To do so, take the silicone sealant and run a thin constant bead along the rim of the housing.
Then, place the lens onto the housing and tape it down to support it.
Now it is time to fully reassemble the lighting and the bumper. This is a complete reverse step process that you used to take it all apart.
After placing all the bolts back in place and all of the bulbs are where they should be, it is time for some wiring diagrams.
If you did what I did and installed headlight and fog light rings, you will want to follow this diagram (thanks to Tyler Ide)!
All of the wire ran in the above diagram is 18 gauge EXCEPT for the wire running from the relay to the fuse to the battery which is 16 gauge.
If you are just looking at a headlight halo install, here is what I would run:
That is it!
I hope this helps anyone looking to do this. If there are ANY questions or recommendations for this, please feel free to ask/tell me. I will probably end up revising this write up tomorrow during the day as its pretty late and the eyelids are getting heavy.
Here are some finished pictures, though!
Thanks for looking!