Unfortunately since I mounted them up side down the logo was now up side down. Luckily I learned from Rigid that I could unscrew and flip the face so they look right side up. I just haven't done it yet
One of these days I will actually flip the face around and order a couple of black covers for them!
I finally got around to refurbishing my Hi-Lift jack. I bought this thing years ago and it had been bolted to the rear bumper of my XJ until recently. I tore it down, sanded it, primed it, painted it, and put it all back together. I also sprayed the foot with bedliner to give it a little more grip.
A side by side of what it looked like before, and after I finished with the paint.
I wasn't too thrilled with the SL shocks and the control they provided. I am sure they are great with their coils, but the OME HD coils along with the added weight I had seemed to over power the shocks allowing the rear end to bob after hitting a big bump or dip. So I decided I needed something I could customize to my liking. That is when I scored a set of 11" travel Fox 2.0 remote reservoir shocks. I love the fact that they are rebuildable so you can replace any part if it wears out instead of having to buy new shocks. Also the fact that you can fine tune them to any setup was a big plus. They had the same extend length as the SL shocks at 28" so I knew they would fit nicely. They came with spherical ball joint ends so I grabbed a set of bushing ends to use on the frame end and keep the joints on the axle end. This way the axle will still flex well, but they would still provide some cushion for vibrations.
I had to use some spacers and a couple of washers to get them to fit right in the shock mounts. Once bolted it I situated the reservoir and checked my clearances.
I rapped the top SS hose with some heater hose to keep it from rubbing on the frame. It wasn't rubbing yet, but it was close. Better safe than sorry!
With the tire back on, the shocks are just visible.
I never did wire a switch into the cab for my D2s. I didn't want to go cutting any holes that I wasn't sure I really wanted. I finally figured out what the plan was. I bought the Saguaro switch panel! This was a but of money that I wasn't too sure about at first. The panel its self is cheap, but the Carling Technologies V-Series Contura II switches are not cheap. In the end it was all worth it. The fit and finish of the panel it perfect and the switches are very nice.
I wanted to keep the wiring as clean and simple as possible. So this was my plan (please excuse the crude diagram )
Instead of wiring the switch and LED power separate I wired them together. This way whenever the switches have power (when the key is in the ON position) the lower LEDs will be on.
The back side:
I found a hole in one of the dash supports to use as a ground.
I ran a wire into an open slot in the fuse box for the ACC power. You can't see it but right after that there is a 5amp fuse before the wire runs up to the switches.
Now when the switches have power the bottom LEDs are on. When you turn a switch on the top picture illuminates as well.
Your right, those Carling Technologies V-Series Contura II switches arent cheap. I just paid $79.51/shipped for five red switches and than plus the panel. Their both coming in sometime this week.. I hope their worth it.
You will like them, they are great switches! One nice thing is that there are so many different types and they all use the same cover. So you can get different ones to fit your needs, but they will all match and not look different.