After adding all of the additional weight in the past year, especially the rails, I decided the MD coils just weren't going to cut it anymore. Before the Jeep felt very controlled on and off road, but lately it was feeling a bit floaty. Also in preparation for a near future project, it was time to upgrade to the Heavy Duty coils! So I place another order from Kolak.
While I had the struts apart I also installed some rubber bumpstops to the existing foam ones. These effectively keep the tires from smashing into the fenders on hard hits.
I used these and cut them in half so they were 0.5" thick.
How much did you spend on them? And any comments on them? I'm in the market for some. Any cons?
They are $60 a pair. I haven't had any issues with them. The only thing that could be a con is that with the 1" set they are only hub and lug centric, not wheel centric. I didn't see it as that big of a deal.
I was kind of in between mods and I needed to do something one weekend. So I knocked out some painting. I had been looking for that perfect graphite paint for some time and finally found what I was looking for at Pep Boys. First I painted up the Matrix then moved onto the 4xGuard front skid. I painted the center crossmember on the Matrix Khaki to match the Jeep and the rest graphite.
It took some convincing to paint the skid because I liked how it looked silver, but in the end I think I like it better this way.
It was time for a little more suspension modification! In my hunt to continue pushing the OME lift I had a new batch of goodies for her. I installed the OME HD coils up front but not in the rear yet, so I did that here. I had done some measuring and found that with a little bit of work I could run longer rear shocks. So I ordered up some SuperLift SuperRide shocks from Kolak. I didn't like the white shock body and yellow boots so I painted the shocks graphite and had Kolak also send me black boots.
Comparison to the OME.
OME rear shocks (PN: N190) extend out to 26" where as the SL shocks (PN: 88200) extend out to 28". So I could get 2 more inches of down travel by running these.
However! Before you go swapping longer shocks in, I had to do a few things. First I had to extend my break lines. I could have bought the SL brackets, but I am cheap and I had some steel sitting around. So I made my own!
And in case you haven't done it already, notch the gas tank skid so the UCA can drop down as far as possible.
Lastly, check the wires doing down to the diff (QDII) and if need be extend them. (You can see it in the track bar pic below)
In the effort to maximize flex and articulation I chose to swap out the sway bar links to a set of JKS quicker disconnects (PN: 2001) These are not a direct bolt in. You have to drill out the top eye to match the frame end bolt. I like these links because they are adjustable, the ends are rubber ball joints that will flex with the suspension, and they are greasable. I adjusted them out to the same length as the Rusty's ones.
To keep the axle center I installed the Rusty's Adjustable Track Bar (PN: RC-TB732-WK) and adjusted it .5" longer than the stock one.
Last thing was bumpstops. I fixed the front, so now to fix the rear. I used a pair of 2" PVC couplings and got longer bolts. I painted the couplings so they weren't white and put them in. These fixed the rubbing issue in the rear for all but the extreme stuffs.
I wanted to start a light collection so I started looking around. I got into the LED off road lights, loving how much light output such a small unit could achieve. After some research I decided on the Rigid Industries Duallys. So I went and talked to a buddy at the local 4WheelParts. He told me that the D2s were just released and he could get me a killer deal on a set. After some convincing to spend a little bit more money I paced an order for a set of D2s in the amber combo pattern for $300. Unfortunately they did not have any yet, but where expecting the first shipment the following week. A week later I got the call and picked them up!
As I mentioned earlier I wasn't happy with the mounting placement. I had learned that living here in North Mexico meant nothing with exposed bolts was safe. All it took was for the guy parking next to you at Walmart to see the expensive lights sitting there and decide he wanted them more than you. So I had to devise a plan. I thought of tack welding the bottom of the bolt so the nut wouldn't come off, but that meant I couldn't take them off if I wanted to without cutting the bolt. Plus if you notice the allen bolts going in the sides, you pull those out and the light comes right off the mount. So my plan was to flush mount them into the grill. I wasn't too sure I would like the look, but I did it anyway! Worst case, I didn't like it and then I needed to replace the grill inserts (something I wanted to do anyway).
So I pulled the grill off, bent up a couple of brackets, welded them in place, drilled mounting holes, and mounted the lights!
Man look at all that space behind the bumper . . .