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Unread 04-25-2007, 11:52 PM   #1
bull_blaster
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New Rotors! drilled, slotted or both

Hello Folks..

I need some advice whether should i get the front rotors resurfaced or just buy new ones. I took my GC to leshwab tires and they told me the reson iam getting this shaking when breaking down from high speeds, like 60 or 70 is becuase my rottors are not straight, and they told me the reason behind it is that the rotors probably got hot at a certain point and cooled off very fast which caused them to mess up. The resurface cost is 99$( i didnt get them dont yet) but the tech there told me if you wanna buy new rotors , make sure they are not drilled cause the holes closer to the outter ring might crack when heated, so he wants me to go with slotted disks instead. any help or advice will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Unread 04-26-2007, 06:10 AM   #2
Kolak
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I'm beginning to get emails from WK and XK owners stating that, much like ZJ & WJ owners, they are experiencing rotor warping. Stillen has just released their cross-drilled rotors for the WK/XK and I expect we'll have the same excellent results with them that we've had with other Jeeps. Cracking has not been an issue as the holes are both radiused and chamfered to prevent that.
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Unread 04-26-2007, 07:17 AM   #3
garsarno
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Take the $90 and invest in new rotors versus resurfacing. The resurfaced rotors will not dissapate the heat as well as new ones and in a few months, you will hear the tune "can't resurface again - you need new rotors" from the dealer. Better yet, buy the cheapest rotors from Auto Zone or similiar and repalce when the pads need replacement. I have purchased the best and cheapest rotors in the past - the best did not last any longer than the cheapest. Just my $.02.
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Unread 04-26-2007, 09:41 AM   #4
98ZJ SFD
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Go with what Kolak suggested, you'll be happy you did. I'm in the process of doing my brakes, and recently purchashed slotted rotors from Quadratec (not knowing Kolak sold brakes) to replace my stock ones. When it's time to do the front brakes, I'll be going with Kolak.

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Unread 04-26-2007, 12:20 PM   #5
bull_blaster
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so should i wait until my brakes need to be changed and do'em all at once cause my brake pads are still in good shape @ 21K miles , and will the rotors warp do any damage other than shaking if i decided to wait? thanks.
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Unread 04-26-2007, 12:23 PM   #6
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I would think your braking efficiency would be compromised with warped rotors, the pads wouldn't be able to make as good contact with warped rotors compared to straight ones.

I would think you could keep your stock pads for now, and just get new ones later.
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Unread 04-26-2007, 06:07 PM   #7
z0lt3c
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You probably don't need either slotted or drilled rotors. Those features only come into play during extreme driving, like at a track. If anything I would go slotted only and definately go with new rotors, do not resurface.
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Unread 04-26-2007, 08:54 PM   #8
98ZJ SFD
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I tend to drive my ZJ hard from time to time, and where I work I hafta go down a mountain, so lots of hard braking for long periods of time, so that's why I went with the slotted. For the average person, drilled or slotted probably not needed.
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Unread 04-30-2007, 09:12 PM   #9
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Kolak is right... I used Stillen exclusively on my old '97. (Hey! I love Old 97's!) Never had another shimmy from warpage again. I went thru 2 sets of rotors with 1 recut. Sign up to their mailing list... every once in a while, they give away free pads with rotor purchase.

Word of warning, though... the cross-drilled type corrode from the holes out, so you'll get some oxidation (rust) falling out into the pad/rotor interface. Over time, this creates wear streaks in patterns around the holes, and minimizes swept area. All I'm saying is, you may have to just suck it up when you need new ones again, rather than recut them. But they're great. Noticeable improvement in stopping on my old GC. May not be as much an improvement... my '06 brakes like a freight train.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 08:53 AM   #10
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There's a lot of advice here, but some of the info is a bit skewed.

Primary functions:
Slots are there to clean the pad surface, and "true" it up.
Cross drills are there to help vent the gas build up out from the pad / disc.

Bonus functions:
Slots can also help release gas build up.
Cross drills can help shed heat.

Cons:
Shops won't resurface the rotors
Slots eat pads up quicker (a lot more brake dust)
cross drills often fill up with pad material getting blocked.

The rotors are thick steel, rust should never be an issue on them (other than for appearance, sometimes they can stick to the hub as well). If it's parked for an extremely long time, then surface rust might cause some noise / brake loss for the first few hundred miles. This is regardless of slots / cross drills.

I don't bother with resurfacing as I've always upgraded my rotors instead. High quality rotors won't easily warp from heat. Another thing with high quality rotors is they run much tighter manufacturing processes, where they hold a much better control on the flatness of the rotor (within microns). When this "flatness" is excessive, people can interpret that as "warped rotors." So just imagine a slightly higher spot on 1 or 2 areas of the rotor. As it spins, every time it comes around to the caliper, it grazes a pad. As you're just driving, it's still doing this, and building heat in the disc while you aren't even using your brakes. Over time this gets worse, and the rotors warp more. Garages can't measure flatness, nor does resurfacing really even fix it.

If you do a lot of towing with the truck, or plan to tow heavy loads, I'd avoid getting a cheap rotor. Yes some people luck out with them, but I've never seen brakes as an area of a vehicle to be cheap on. I have the Baer kit on my project car (basically the old Corvette ZR-1 brakes with Baers slotted rotors), and those have taken a ton of abuse, and done quite well.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 09:18 PM   #11
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Thank you guys , and thank you Jeepconvert for the details. I really dont do any towing at all, the only thing that might be considered is that i live in Oregon, and i travel alot across hills and mountains, and YES, I tend to have a heavy foot on the brake when traveling down hill. So what i understand is that the manufacture (original) WK rotors wont be my best option against other higher quality after market rotors such as the ones mentioned above. cause the shaking is getting worse and worse , its now shaking even when i brake on city streets or when braking to stop at the light.
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Unread 05-08-2007, 05:44 PM   #12
johnniebravo
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invest in a decent set of rotors and avoid slotted and cross drilled. most people here don't need either and will be wasting money.

get a decent set of cast rotors if available, flush the brake fluid, and install a decent set of aftermarket brake pads (i.e. hawk, pagid....). you will see a significant difference. guaranteed.

another thing, riding your brakes down a long hill for long periods will overhead and glaze any brake set up. Don't do it, use the transmission as much as possible for slowing down. if you must brake, do it for harder but shorter periods to avoid excessive heat build up and allowing for more time in between braking for cooldown.

one thing to mention is that when you upgrade brakes, think about your tires. your brakes are only as good as your tires ability to grip the surface.

check out the tech articles at Stop Tech brakes for more info than you can digest in one day.

edit: also, people need to bed in brakes when new...don't just slap em on and go! follow proper break in procedures for both pads and rotorss and enjoy the benefits.
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