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Save at JeepHut on Smittybilt Soft topsECGS Labor Day Sale!!New DEAL OF THE WEEK at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!

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Unread 05-07-2014, 08:01 PM   #1
btjeep
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New Bilsteins From Kolak

Hey guys old time member that cant remember his old id or password. Its been a while.

New to me 2005 WK 3.7 with 88,000 on the clock.
I bought some Bilsteins from Kolak who is an awesome businessman btw. I've dealt with im in the past and as always perfect transaction and excellent service. All 4-4600 series Bilsteins at a really nice price

So it looks like i just joined the infamous lower clevis/control arm frozen bolt in rubber bushing club. I thought id get a head start before the new shocks/struts showed up and crack everything loose. The upper clevis bolt was hard to crack loose but no where near as hard as the lower. Even with my good impacts i cant get it to budge. It would be nice if they actually used a bolt with a decent size head on it too. I can see a lot of guys rounding it off. Anyways, i should be able to remove the struts without taking off the whole clevis right? I've done just about everything one can do to a Jeep except change out struts, so this is my 1st time. I figure as long as i get the upper clevis bolt out i should be able to get the strut out of there but correct me if im wrong. I hate the fact that the bolt might get the best of me so i wanted to ask you guys if theres a way to replace the lower control arm bushing while its still on the vehicle too?? Can I? i'd like to replace all 4 clevis bolts and would be nice if i can change out that bushing too. The project started with new uca's i have sitting here and said, why not just change out the struts at the same time too. So when i'm done pretty much everything will be new. I did the sway bar links last week and new tires on my list as well.

so, can i get the strut out with just the upper clevis bolt? can i change the lower control arm bushing while on the vehicle. oh yeah, one more, have any of you guys used this spring compressor from Harbor Freight? All the ones i've used in the past were scary but this one looks like it would be a lot safer. be nice to have one around.
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html

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Unread 05-08-2014, 03:44 AM   #2
Clone451
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While it's more convenient to work on if you remove the lower clevis bolt, you can remove the strut without it. To clear the UCA and get the LCA low enough an extra set of hands and perhaps a leg might be needed.
I don't think you can replace the clevis bolt bushings alone, I think the LCA comes as a unit with all its bushings (somebody...?).
Never seen spring compressors like that, look safer but I wonder if you'd have enough space to use them under a fender and for something like OMEs it would be a lot of strain for 1 bolt.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 08:18 AM   #3
Just_Josh
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I recently had my LCAs replaced. The dealership said the bushings were bad and they could only replace the entire LCA. Luckily, they were the ones struggling with the seized clevis bolts and actually broke the lowers in the process and had to replace with new ones.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 08:28 AM   #4
skibum555
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You CAN buy bushings alone for LCA but they are a clevis bolt type headache from what I can see. New OEM style LCAs can be found for under $100 I think. I have also used that Harbor freight compressor and it was also a PITA I don't know if you are adding lift springs or not but the heavy duty sprigs I added were to much for the compressor to handle and it bent pretty bad. If I had tried to make it compress any further it would have failed and I would be "one eyed joe" or "two finger larry".. hahaha but seriously, either rent the cast ironish ones from Autozone or pay to have them assembled with a big compressor at a shop. I was quoted like $45 for assembly on the struts if I just came with parts.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 08:34 AM   #5
unobtanium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_Josh View Post
I recently had my LCAs replaced. The dealership said the bushings were bad and they could only replace the entire LCA. Luckily, they were the ones struggling with the seized clevis bolts and actually broke the lowers in the process and had to replace with new ones.
Everyone told me I was the only one, lol! Just had this done, as well. 2010/72K miles.

Noone complained about bolts, though.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 09:43 AM   #6
BlackedTheFOut
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If you are just replacing the strut and no adding a BB lift or anything you should be able to get it back in without taking the lower strut fork off.

Pop the strut collar bolt (what i think you are referring to when you say upper clevis bolt) and the strut should shimmy out of the fork with a little encouragement.

Put the new strut in and you should be able to force it back under the fender and UCA.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 12:50 PM   #7
btjeep
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Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah i'm not doing a lift or anything like that, just replacing the struts/shocks. I did some researching first and saw a lot of guys had trouble with those bolts. I sprayed them days ahead of time and last night i cracked everything loose. That lower bolt wont budge but i did free the upper. I actually just got off the phone with the dealer and ordered new upper bolts. They looked pretty nasty. I watched a bunch of vids of guys changing the lower control arm bushing but not while it was on the car. The cheapest lca i found was somewhere around 150.00 each and i'll save that for a later repair. If things dont go as planned, i will be replacing that lower control arm bushing. I know i can do it after studying it, it just wont be easy. Napa has them for about 30 bucks a piece. Some guys were using a ball joint tool to press them back in. And as I type, the ups guy is dropping off Kolaks Bilsteins.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 03:06 PM   #8
btjeep
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Ok it's been decided, i plan on doing the lower control arm bushings while its still on the vehicle too. Napa has the bushings for 33 bucks a piece and the dealer will have the new bolts in the morning.. Just cant imagine doing all that work and leaving those old bushings. Since you're not doing anything, come on over and help. lol j/k. I'll be doing this by myself over the weekend and maybe i'll do some video for you guys. Here's the new Bilsteins from Kolak and the new upper control arms. And 4 impacts of mine could not get those lca bolts loose so i think im going to go grab that earthquake impact or from Harbor Freight. Ive seen many guys here talk about that impact and love it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-p...nch-68424.html

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Unread 05-08-2014, 04:51 PM   #9
hxdrummerxc
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I literally just had to deal with my LCA / Strut Fork bolt this morning.

Hearing the horror stories, I PB blasted the bolts the night before and let them sit all night. Then PB blasted them again right before I went to work on them.

It was a PITA but we got it out. The drivers side, broke free right away and popped right out with a hammer. The passenger side we had to use a 3ft breaker bar on the rachet (piece of fence post lol) and the nut broke free quite easily with the breaker bar. But the problem was, the bolt would not come out. It was rusted to the rubber boot. We used a ton of WD-40 and I had one person hammer the bolt outwards while I sat there and twisted the other end back and forth. We wrestled with it for over an hour before we got it out.

Here is the problem if you haven't got yours out yet..... the bolts are toast. Rusted real bad, threads all screwed up and it even had deep pitting throughout the whole bolt. So we had to make a run to the dealership to get two new bolts.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 09:49 PM   #10
btjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hxdrummerxc View Post
I literally just had to deal with my LCA / Strut Fork bolt this morning.

Hearing the horror stories, I PB blasted the bolts the night before and let them sit all night. Then PB blasted them again right before I went to work on them.

It was a PITA but we got it out. The drivers side, broke free right away and popped right out with a hammer. The passenger side we had to use a 3ft breaker bar on the rachet (piece of fence post lol) and the nut broke free quite easily with the breaker bar. But the problem was, the bolt would not come out. It was rusted to the rubber boot. We used a ton of WD-40 and I had one person hammer the bolt outwards while I sat there and twisted the other end back and forth. We wrestled with it for over an hour before we got it out.

Here is the problem if you haven't got yours out yet..... the bolts are toast. Rusted real bad, threads all screwed up and it even had deep pitting throughout the whole bolt. So we had to make a run to the dealership to get two new bolts.
you're absolutely right. There's no way i'd ever re-use those old bolts so I had my dealership order them and i'll be picking them up in the morning. Im replacing the upper cleavis bolt and the lower bolts. Expensive little buggers too. I think he said 9 bucks for the lower and 5 for the uppers. I also ran to Napa and picked up 2 of these too. When the time comes i will run back and rent their ball joint tool to press it in. We even went as far as taking the tool and matching it up with the bushing and theres one collar thats the exact same size. Awesome. If anyones interested, the upper clevis bolt part number is ...06502818 and the lower is 06503047. And this is the lower control arm bushing.



I could never imagine ever using those old bolts if installing new struts. And a shout out to Kolak too. Everything arrived today and i just ordered them 2 days ago. Cheers.. The rears went in in just a few mninutes and I can already tell a difference. And for whats its worth, that Earthquake impact gun from HF kicks butt. I had a mailer coupon that had it for 69.99 and now i plan to sell all the Husky's i own that barely crack lug nuts.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 09:54 PM   #11
btjeep
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Oh and i didnt get a chance but I cant wait to try that new Earthquake impact on those lower bolts tomorrow. I even bought a fresh 21mm 6 point socket just for that bolt.
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Unread 05-09-2014, 11:17 AM   #12
zc911
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You can get the shock out without removing the fork. Undo the bolt that holds the shock to the fork. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, remove the bolt that holds the upper control arm to the knuckle. Remove the bolt that holds the lower ball join on Remove the big bolt on the axle and push it out of the knuckle. Get that knuckle out of there
Get your spring compressors In there and remove some tension from the front spring. A bit of hammering and pushing on the Lower control arm with your leg and the shock will pop out. Them remove the 3 bolts that hold the shock to the body and out it comes
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