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james1422 07-20-2013 05:45 AM

My new wk. already towed home!
hi everyone, im new to the wk forum but i always am poking around checking out rigs and build threads but i ran in so a problem and hopefully someone can help me figure out whats going on.

i picked up my 06 wk overland with the 5.7 hemi a week ago today from a small ri dealer

on my way home from work i hopped on the highway, once on the highway i noticed that i was being followed by a mist of smoke or water.

i pulled over to realize that a heater core hose popped off and was spraying antifreeze everywhere.

so i put the hose back on, filled it with some antifreeze and a few water bottles and started it up with the rad cap on. immediately the engine temp began to rise so i shut it back off and opened the rad cap, waited it to cool down again and started it up, i started filling the coolant system with more water and while doing so the radiator burped out tons of antifreeze., waited again for it to cool down, turned the cabin heat on and tried to crawl home, before even getting out of the parking lot where i stopped, the temp was in the red again, and the cabin heater never got even warm during all this, i decided to have it towed home.

sorry if this is so long but im at a loss of where to look in to to fix this and what to do, im going back to the seller today to try and have him take this problem and figure it out,but at least try to help him and point out what it may be. could it be a bad thermo stuck closed? im really new to this jeep so i dont know where to begin, again sorry for being so long, all input is much appreciated.:wave:

LJS8510 07-20-2013 06:28 AM

Welcome, sorry to hear about your new jeep.

This sounds strange, the heater hose just doesn't come loose on its own. They or someone must have done some work on it, I would need to know what kind of work was done before deciding to keep it or not.
You have every right to put a stop to the deal if you want.

james1422 07-20-2013 07:18 AM

im not sure whats going on with it, im hoping that the thermostat is stuck shut? causing too much pressure when i got on the highway then popping of at the weakest point, and now theres no heat because theres air in the system and the thermo is still stuck. im calling the dealer now to see what he says, hopefully he will fix this problem without a hassle

ZJeepn08 07-20-2013 07:29 AM

Definitely take that thing back to the dealer. If I'm not mistaken you have 72 hours from time of purchase to return the car. Not sure if you have any kind of warranty or not, but get that thing back there ASAP.

LJS8510 07-20-2013 07:32 AM

In my opinion you need to get angry and demand they fix it plus warranty any future problems. It is not what you bought, it inexcusable this for this to happen.

james1422 07-20-2013 08:12 AM

mechanics at the dealer cant work on it until monday, so monday ill tow it there, i do have a written 30 day warranty but before we left the day i bought it {last Saturday} he said don't worry about the warranty, if anything happens bring it in and we will take care of it. he sounded like hejust wants to get it back on the road as soon as possible so i can be a happy coustomer, but if he gives me a song and a dance; i wont be to happy :nono:

LJS8510 07-20-2013 08:32 AM

Thats good, sounds like you should be fine.
But I would still want to know why the hose clamp was loose?

90grandoneer 07-20-2013 08:44 AM

After the coolant has been drained (or leaked) out, to refill it correctly you must remove the little allen plug by the thermostat, and then fill until coolant comes out that hole. Then reinstall the plug. This will get "most" of the air out of the system. you'll probably still have to check it daily (cold) for a week or so, as it will probably require a little more each time until all the air is out of the system. It is best to get the proper pink Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant (HOAT) from the stealer and mix it 50-50 with DISTILLED water. Obviously, first make sure the entire system has been checked and there are no leaks, loose clamps, etc.

Right now you're probably having the heating problem because of either air in the system or a bad thermostat. If you change the thermostat, get it from the stealer (IIRC ~$30), as it is the only place I know of that you can get it with the stock o-ring seal. If you get an aftermarket thermostat, it doesn't come with this seal and you'll have to use a gasket. I've tried this several times, and it almost always leaks/seeps. I've tried numerous different gaskets and the only gasket I've found that works is the Fel-pro P/N 35840. Bottom line, it's just less hassle to bite the bullet and get the stock setup from the stealer.

As a side note, if you do replace the thermostat, make sure that the little bleed valve on the thermostat is at the top when you install the stat. You'll see it if you take it apart. If it's not installed on top, it'll be more difficult to properly bleed the system. Also, while you're at it have the radiator cap pressure checked. It shouldn't be bad, unless someone has previously messed with the system.

One last thing, if you're mechanically handy, do it yourself, as most "run of the mill" mechanics are clueless on working on these things......some Jeep dealer mechanics included. Many will just throw any old coolant and tap water into. Do this and you'll have big time problems down the road.

WieSeL 07-20-2013 08:48 AM

You need to full it and run it with the cap off and pull the bleeder screw to let the cooling system "burp" itself. You have air bubbles in the system which heat up like a steam pocket and so the coolant temp sensor is reading that hot air which will send the gauge into the red

90grandoneer 07-20-2013 09:13 AM

After reading some of the earlier posts, LJS8510 is right on the button. Check this thing over completely, and if there are signs of "idiot tampering" anywhere on the vehicle, get your money back, otherwise you may end up with a broken down garage queen, unless you have lots of $$$ and are capable of fixing things yourself. Here are just a few things you should pay particular attention to:
How many miles are on it?
Are there any maintenance records available? If not you'll have to service everything to insure current status.
How does the transmission shift? Any slipping or rough upshifts (aside from the 3-4 shift)?
Is the transmission fluid level "full" when hot, and not smell burnt or black in color? Should be red, or brown if old.
Any clunking, slipping, harshness when shifting from drive to reverse or reverse to drive?
Any driveline noises/whines? Includes both differentials, transmission, transfer case, engine, driveshafts.
Any pulsing or roughness when brakes are applied?
Does the MDS work properly? If improper weight oil installed, it won't work or won't work properly. Very common.
What does the engine oil look like and is it full?
What does the tire wear pattern look like?
Any play in the steering?

I could go on and on, but these are a few of the "critical/semi-critical" things that could cost you lots of $$$ down the road if there are problems. Good luck.

90grandoneer 07-20-2013 12:38 PM

I don't use the hose they're talking about. I just lay an old towel on the top of the belt, and carefully add until it starts coming out of the bleed hole. Any old funnel will don't need the one they're talking about.

NOTE: Cooling system fill procedure is critical to overall cooling system performance.
1. Close radiator draincock.
Hand tighten only.

2. Install engine block drain plugs, if removed. Coat the threads with Mopar
T Thread Sealant with Teflon.

WARNING: When installing drain hose to air bleed valve, route hose away from accessory drive belts,
accessory drive pulleys, and electric cooling fan motors.
NOTE: It may be necessary to install a bleed fitting on the 5.7L engine.
3. Attach a 1.5 - 2 m (4 - 6 ft.) long 6 mm (1/4 inch.) ID clear hose to bleeder fitting
Plug Location (5.7L): Located on the front of the water outlet housing at the front of engine.
4. Route hose away from the accessory drive belt, drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other end of
hose into a clean container. The hose will prevent coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt when bleeding
the system during the refilling operation.

NOTE: It is imperative that the cooling system air bleed valve be opened before any coolant is added to the
cooling system. Failure to open the bleed valve first will result in an incomplete fill of the system.
5. 5.7L ENGINE - Install a threaded and barbed fitting (1/4 - 18 npt) into water pump housing.
6. Attach Special Tool 8195 (1), Filling Aid Funnel to
pressure bottle filler neck.
7. Using hose pinch-off pliers, pinch overflow hose (3)
that connects between the two chambers of the
coolant bottle (2).
8. Open bleed fitting.
CAUTION: Do not mix coolants. If coolant is used
other than specified, a reduction in corrosion protection
will occur.
9. Pour the antifreeze mixture (Refer to LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION) into the larger section of Filling Aid
Funnel (the smaller section of funnel is to allow air
to escape). For system capacity, (Refer to 7 -
10. Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the bleed valve.
11. Close the bleed valve and continue filling system to the top of the Special Tool 8195 (1).
12. Remove pinch-off pliers from overflow hose.
13. Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle.
14. Remove Tool 8195 (1). Install cap on coolant pressure bottle.
15. Remove hose from bleed valve.
16. 5.7L ENGINE - Install fitting into thermostat housing. Coat the threads with Mopar
T Thread Sealant with Teflon.
17. Start engine and run at 1500 - 2000 RPM for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour
of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling
system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be
sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing
the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to
cooling system.

kjrenegade03 07-20-2013 11:55 PM

To the OP, where did you purchase this wk? I am just curious cause I just bought one this past thursday at Auto Country in Exeter RI.

Just curious.

chuckerants 07-21-2013 08:32 AM

I'm going to take a WAG and say the OP is probably on the opposite coast from you. ;)

Originally Posted by kjrenegade03 (Post 15700419)
To the OP, where did you purchase this wk? I am just curious cause I just bought one this past thursday at Auto Country in Exeter RI.

Just curious.

rubiconkid4x4 07-21-2013 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by chuckerants (Post 15700939)
I'm going to take a WAG and say the OP is probably on the opposite coast from you. ;)


Originally Posted by james1422 (Post 15697742)
hi everyone, im new to the wk forum but i always am poking around checking out rigs and build threads but i ran in so a problem and hopefully someone can help me figure out whats going on.

i picked up my 06 wk overland with the 5.7 hemi a week ago today from a small ri dealer

Probably not :rtft: ;)

james1422 07-21-2013 07:52 PM

thanks for all the input guys, and yes i am on the east coast, i bought it from merrill motors a week ago last saturday, im going to have them replace the thermostat and flush the system correctly, hopefully this will solve my problem, and yes this is the first thing that has been suspicious about.

The time now is 05:16 PM.

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