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Unread 01-29-2014, 09:43 AM   #1
ISUzj
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2005 WK 
 
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Minimal heat when sitting, fine when driving

On my 2005 WK, me and my wife were waiting in a Walgreens parking lot for a perscription, and the Jeep just could not keep us warm at all. The moment I started to drive away afterwards, we had a blast of heat coming at us.

Any Ideas of what could be up? there is heat so i can't imagine it is a heater core?

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Unread 01-29-2014, 09:52 AM   #2
Aclow33
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Have you checked your coolant level?
You may also have air in the system.
I could also try to do a heater core flush.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 09:59 AM   #3
ISUzj
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Yeah I have enoguh fluid.. how hard is a heater core flush on these??
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Unread 01-29-2014, 10:20 AM   #4
yzjwk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUzj View Post
On my 2005 WK, me and my wife were waiting in a Walgreens parking lot for a perscription, and the Jeep just could not keep us warm at all. The moment I started to drive away afterwards, we had a blast of heat coming at us.

Any Ideas of what could be up? there is heat so i can't imagine it is a heater core?
THe Hemi has a hydraulic fan that runs off the power steering pump . it is controlled by the fcm and should ramp up and down based on temperature inputs from the transmission and engine . There have been instances where the fan is stuck on high because of either a fauly temperature input or fcm .
I don't know what your temps are like there , but even at -20 my fan is spinning fairly slowly at idle . I doubt your heater core would be plugged unless you are using non HOAT coolant or someone dumped bars leak or some other additive in there .
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Unread 01-29-2014, 10:24 AM   #5
96zjlaredo
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You can flush your radiator as normal and it will also flush the heater core. BUT if your heater core is totally clogged then your better off putting in a new one. You can also unhook the return hose on the heater core and see if theres water coming out of it at a good flow. If not unhook both hoses going into the heater core and put them together with a coupling (temporary) then flush your entire system till its totally clean, then install the new heater core and hook it back up. This way you wont push all that crap into your new core and have the same problem.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 10:26 AM   #6
ISUzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
THe Hemi has a hydraulic fan that runs off the power steering pump . it is controlled by the fcm and should ramp up and down based on temperature inputs from the transmission and engine . There have been instances where the fan is stuck on high because of either a fauly temperature input or fcm .
I don't know what your temps are like there , but even at -20 my fan is spinning fairly slowly at idle . I doubt your heater core would be plugged unless you are using non HOAT coolant or someone dumped bars leak or some other additive in there .
yeah it has been mostly noticed this last week or two (-5F->-15F temps).

so is there much i can do? I might still try a flush on the heater core. I have noticed that the temp gauge crawls up when it has been this cold.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 11:51 AM   #7
96zjlaredo
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Did you read my post? scroll up.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 11:53 AM   #8
yzjwk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUzj View Post
yeah it has been mostly noticed this last week or two (-5F->-15F temps).

so is there much i can do? I might still try a flush on the heater core. I have noticed that the temp gauge crawls up when it has been this cold.
Generally , you need to have starscan to be able to see and command the fan to various speeds . What do you mean when you say the temp guage crawls up ? is the engine temp going up and the heater output going down at the same time ?
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Unread 01-29-2014, 12:28 PM   #9
JRLT
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Maybe your thermostat is stuck open.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 12:36 PM   #10
Jaashua
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My car does this and always has. I've had the coolant flushed and made sure there was no air in the system. I just no longer chill in my car while parked.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 02:10 PM   #11
ISUzj
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When I say the temp slowly crawls.. I mean the engine temp gauge takes forever to appear nominal

I will check the fluid again and try to air out the system and then look into a flush.

I know its winter and things are cold it just seems to take a lot longer than my truck did.(07 dakota)
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Unread 01-29-2014, 03:32 PM   #12
yzjwk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUzj View Post
When I say the temp slowly crawls.. I mean the engine temp gauge takes forever to appear nominal

I will check the fluid again and try to air out the system and then look into a flush.

I know its winter and things are cold it just seems to take a lot longer than my truck did.(07 dakota)
I have to agree with JRLT then . It sounds like you have a stuck , or at least lazy thermostat . that or your fan is stuck on high , but i would start with the thermostat . personally I wouldn't throw money at a flush . symptoms of a plugged system generally include overheating , not overcooling ( coolant not moving enough because the system is plugged). I would save that as a last resort . That and the HOAT coolant and materials used in the wk system are really designed to prevent that .
Good luck
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Unread 01-30-2014, 10:10 AM   #13
JeepCares
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Here's some info from the 2005 WK FSM:

HEATER PERFORMANCE

MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT
Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, set the temperature control to the full hot position, the mode control to the floor position, and the blower motor control to the highest speed position. Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of the air being discharged at the front floor outlets. Compare the test thermometer reading to the Heater Temperature Reference chart.

HEATER TEMPERATURE REFERENCE

Ambient Air Temperature - 60 degrees F
Minimum Heater System Air Outlet Temperature - 125 degrees F

Ambient Air Temperature - 70 degrees F
Minimum Heater System Air Outlet Temperature - 133 degrees F

Ambient Air Temperature - 80 degrees F
Minimum Heater System Air Outlet Temperature - 139 degrees F

If the heater outlet air temperature is below the minimum specification, refer to Group 7 - Cooling. Both of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should be slightly cooler than the coolant supply heater hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction in the cooling system (refer to Group 7 - Cooling for more information).

OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW
Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant flow are as follows:

Inoperative water pump.
Inoperative thermostat.
Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
Improper heater hose routing.
Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at the cooling system connections.
Plugged heater core.
If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is verified, and heater outlet air temperature is low, a mechanical problem may exist.

MECHANICAL PROBLEMS
Possible locations or causes of insufficient heat due to mechanical problems are as follows:

Obstructed cowl air intake.
Obstructed heater system outlets.
Inoperative engine thermostat.
Inoperative blower motor system.
Inoperative A/C-heater control.
Inoperative blend door actuator(s).
Inoperative, obstructed or improperly installed blend-air door.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If the heater outlet air temperature cannot be adjusted with the temperature control on the A/C-heater control, the following could require service:

Inoperative A/C-heater control.
Inoperative blend door actuator(s).
Inoperative, obstructed or improperly installed blend-air door.
Improper engine coolant temperature.
Inoperative related wiring harness or connectors.
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Unread 01-30-2014, 02:57 PM   #14
johnniebravo
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I second checking for a stuck open/failed thermostat.
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Unread 01-30-2014, 03:24 PM   #15
trax95008
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A thermostat that is stuck open would throw a P0128 code, which means the engine took longer than expected to warm up. I doubt that's the problem if there's no code
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