Got a chance to install my 4xG belly skid today. I was hoping for an easy day but, of course, ran into snags. For starters, the install instructions that come with it - nearly worthless IMO. I had better luck lookin at what I had and crawlin under the Jeep to see how this was gonna go. Second - the hardware I got - nearly the same as the instructions. The carriage bolts that came with the kit that are used to connect the two pieces were course thread, the self locking flange nuts were fine thread - no good. The "tab" bolt receiver - I found better luck looking at other guy's install pics on JF than the instruction's wording as far as where and what to do with it.
These are the tools I used:
9/16 wrench for the "tab" bolt and carriage bolt nuts
17mm wrench for the rear mounting bolts (PITA to get to)
13mm socket for the front mounting bolts
Needle nose (screwdriver would work as well - I'll explain later)
I ran up to the hardware store to resolve the mismatch in threads between the carriage bolt and nut and this is what I got in lieu of them:
stainless steel 1"x3/8" carriage bolt (course thread), a flat washer, and matching 9/16 plastic washer locking nut
Once I got back I was able to connect the two pieces:
BTW - don't tighten these three bolts down yet.
Next I had to take out the front mounting bolts for the t-case skid and the rear mounting bolts for the oem front skid. You can reuse these so don't pitch 'em. I ended up using stainless steel bolts and washers I got while at the hardware store. This is not needed but I figured they are stronger and won't rust as readily as the zinc ones supplied with the kit. Plus, the posts on the rear oem front skid mounting bolts were shorter and I got longer ones since the belly skid slides between the back of the front skid and the suspension cross member:
I used one of my jacks as a "third arm" in order to hold the belly skid up so I could start the front two mounting bolts. You can see how the front of the belly skid fits between the rear of the front skid and the suspension member:
Once the front bolts are threaded in enough to hold, move to the rear bolts. The back lip of the belly skid slides up in front of the front lip of the t-case skid and all of this is to the front of the middle cross member. Again, just get the bolts started but don't tighten. (If you have a ratcheting wrench it would be VERY useful for the rear bolts):
The "tab" receiver slides in the larger hole on the unibody frame and the threaded part has to line up with the smaller hole as that is where the bolt threads through. The arrow is to show orientation to the front of the Jeep.
I'll just say getting the bolt threaded up through there and started into the tab is less than fun. Once it is started to thread leave it and go back to the four main mounting bolts:
Once you get the front and rear mounting bolts tightened down move to the three carriage bolts. This is where I used the needle nose pliers. A screwdriver will work as well but the pliers were closer. Use the pliers or screwdriver to apply pressure on the rounded bolt head as you tighten the carriage bolt nut. Other wise, it wants to just spin all over the place:
Once you have these three done the last thing to do is wrench down the "tab" bolt on the passenger side:
Now crawl out from under the Jeep and take a look:
I'm planning a wheeling venture for next weekend but for now I'm mostly all armored up with no place to go.
I like the fit and sturdiness of the belly skid (that thing feels bomb-proof when you have it in hand) but like I said at the start - the instructions are almost a waste of time and confusing. All in I spent the better part of an afternoon getting this badboy done but that includes a trip to the hardware store and working through what I wanted/needed to replace as far as mounting hardware. I hope I was able to help the next WK guy or gal that plans on adding this piece to their WK.