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JK specific skid plates from Clayton Off Road Mfg.RCV Heavy Duty Axle Shafts Now Shipping at Baseline4x4.comStainless Steel Door Hinge Pins

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Unread 02-01-2012, 01:56 PM   #76
scootr29
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I will sell you my strut plates...getting ready to pull them out when I install my OME kit.

Let me know....

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Unread 02-01-2012, 02:00 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootr29 View Post
I will sell you my strut plates...getting ready to pull them out when I install my OME kit.

Let me know....
Rusty's .25'' ? What do you want for them? PM me.
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Unread 02-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
I was lookin at the WK this morning thinking about its future and what I would like to do to/with it. Kind of an on-going "wishlist" .
This is all way in advance as far as any mods but I wanted to get some feedback.

If I took a rusty's .25 strut spacer up front and just put the Monroe load levelers (like AJ did - the ones for the F-150) in the back does anybody know:
A. I would sit with a rake, level, sag?
B. Would I need to look into some adjustable/quickdisco's f/r?

I'm just spit ballin here and figure the adjustable rear tracbar would be part of it.
How does your OME sit now? Does it have some rake or is it level? I have a RC that levels it. I put the longer Monroes on and now it has rake again (borderline too much in my opinion, but probably about factory). I think a leveling spacer would level it out again.

So if you're sitting with roughly factory rake right now, I'd assume the Monroes would increase it even more, so a leveling spacers would get it back to factory or slightly less.
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Unread 02-01-2012, 03:29 PM   #79
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your results will vary with the monroe though.. a few people on here have had various results in height with them ... i think buda had almost an inch and a quarter? inch and a third maybe? ... so even with a .25 spacer youll still have a rake...

correction buda had an 1.5...
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Unread 02-01-2012, 03:33 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t3kmitch View Post
How does your OME sit now? Does it have some rake or is it level? I have a RC that levels it. I put the longer Monroes on and now it has rake again (borderline too much in my opinion, but probably about factory). I think a leveling spacer would level it out again.

So if you're sitting with roughly factory rake right now, I'd assume the Monroes would increase it even more, so a leveling spacers would get it back to factory or slightly less.
Without the spare in the well it has about 3/8-1/2" rake. With the spare in the well about about level or just slightly raked. When I check this I measure ground to rear of front well and ground to front of rear well - basically the plastic bottom rail. I know the .25" strut spacer will give me roughly another
.5" in front but I don't know about the LL's .

I'm just curious how I would piece it all together. Kind of thinking outloud if you will.
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Unread 02-09-2012, 04:53 PM   #81
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Well I'm on duty today and haven't talked to my wife yet to confirm, but according to FedEx tracking my S4xC t-case skid adapter plate was delivered today. Hopefully I have time tomorrow to install and snap some pics. Should be a good Friday
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Unread 02-10-2012, 02:27 PM   #82
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Today I picked up an overtime shift so I'm not gonna get around to installing my newest armor - but that is perfectly okay with me. I love making extra money. I also ordered something I'm really excited to install. I'll just say that after getting my transmission filters changed and fluid drained/refilled just the other day, that area should
remain "untouched" 4 quite awhile after the neXt biG box gets delivered to our door.
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~RED WK CLUB #7~
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Unread 02-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #83
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nice! still following this thread and "The Dentist" build cause they are similar and i love the stance with the 265s. funds are on their way for the OME and maybe 285s, cant decide after seeing yours and dentist rigs on 265s.

i like your load leveler idea with the strut spacer for maybe an added 1/2". im considering going the same route, but maybe trimming one of the spacers from my daystar BB. my thing with the load levelers is the ride, will it make it harsher than the OME? i know the HD stiffens up the suspension alittle- but how much compared to the load levelers? hope someone can chime in..

keep up the good work.
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Unread 02-11-2012, 04:47 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paroxysym View Post
nice! still following this thread and "The Dentist" build cause they are similar and i love the stance with the 265s. funds are on their way for the OME and maybe 285s, cant decide after seeing yours and dentist rigs on 265s.

i like your load leveler idea with the strut spacer for maybe an added 1/2". im considering going the same route, but maybe trimming one of the spacers from my daystar BB. my thing with the load levelers is the ride, will it make it harsher than the OME? i know the HD stiffens up the suspension alittle- but how much compared to the load levelers? hope someone can chime in..

keep up the good work.
Thanks, dude! If I were you and the money is there - go 285's. Here's why:
I'd bet money that even though you will be stoked to have the OME in with 265's - eventually you'll want more. If you already have spacers to use in the rear, then all you need is a set of strut spacers for the front. Those are pretty cheap. P/w mod the front, rear fender - costs little if nothing to do. Viola! You have a modified OME with 285's. You'll still want to get an adjustable rear tracbar but if you get 265's to start you'll either have to run them out treadwise or have to sell them off before going to the 285's. Either way you'd be buying two sets of meats when you could just buy one. I'm just sayin if you think you'll want to move up to 285's eventually, then just get them now. If I had it to do over I would have. Don't get me wrong - I LOVE my current set-up - but now I have the itch to go 285's and at this point I'm probably 2-3 years out on that jump-up. As it stands - I'll most likely run the 265's through their miles and in the meantime slowly piece meal the components I want/need to stack the OME.
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Unread 02-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #85
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Had some time to do some work under the WK and figured I'd update the build so here's the latest additions:


Some things that are a must and one that just makes this install a little easier IMO: The S4xC adapter doesn't come with any hardware as it uses 2 factory bolts on the forward most fuel tank strap. An 18mm wrench is needed for the inboard factory bolt and a deepwell 15mm socket is needed for the two nuts that bolt the Mopar t-case skid to the adapter plate. A regular 15mm socket will get these started but you won't be able to seat the nut without a deepwell. Also, I jacked the rear up higher on the passenger side so as to push the drive shaft away from the fuel tank. It is minimal and may not have helped much but getting the adapter plate inboard "arm" between the fuel tank and the driveline is tight - I figured any little bit would help. The install instructions say to slide the adapter in from the rear of the fuel tank and slide it up as there is more clearance this way - I didn't notice it made a difference.




The factory bolts that are used to mount the adapter plate:
(Notice how tight it is to get to the bolt above the driveline)




Same bolt from pretty much directly underneath:


Once you get the adapter plate in place go ahead and torque the mounting bolts all the way. The instructions mention if you're mounting the t-case skid to leave them loose in order to fit the two together. I found that getting to the inboard bolt for the adapter with the t-case skid in place made it very difficult to get to the bolt. So, again, torque the adapter plate before you mount the t-case skid.


Once you get the t-case skid in place go ahead and pop the front bolts in to hold it but don't tighten them down yet.


These are the two 15mm nuts that you want to have a deepwell socket for. Like I said earlier, a regular 15mm will get you started but the bolt stem will bottom out inside a regular socket and it will feel as though the nut is fully seated - not so. I found out the hard way and almost stripped out the nut at the bottom of the pic as I was waiting for the torque wrench to "click."
Also, the two pieces don't "lock" together as there is quite a tolerance in the fit, which is why it works best not to torque the front t-case bolts until you get the rear nuts torqued all the way.


Once the rear nuts are torqued go back and torque the front mounting bolts for the t-case skid and everything is set.




Everything tucks right up underneath the rig with little to no loss of ground clearance.


Overall this is nothing more than about an hour start to finish. As always, any bolts that are rusty when you take them out - take a wire brush to them before you put 'em back in and I always use anti-seaze on stuff I might need to remove in the future. The fit of the S4xC adapter plate is right on and the Mopar t-case skid fits with it perfectly. Very pleased with the overall ease of this install and fit.

After I got everything installed and put away I finally got around to slappin my JF sticker on. Gotta represent.
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My Build Thread WK
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'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 02-12-2012, 11:16 AM   #86
S1L3NT_WH33L3R
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Ive followed your thread for a while I almost went 265s because of your jeep. It looks so good. I like how your jeep looks so clean. Good work and keep it up bud
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Unread 02-12-2012, 12:29 PM   #87
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S1L3NT wheres pics of your rig?
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Unread 02-12-2012, 12:30 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paroxysym
S1L3NT wheres pics of your rig?
The lift+wheel combo thread but im starting up a build thread (XJ homage build thread)
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Unread 02-12-2012, 12:37 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1L3NT_WH33L3R View Post
Ive followed your thread for a while I almost went 265s because of your jeep. It looks so good. I like how your jeep looks so clean. Good work and keep it up bud
Appreciate it, thanks! I try and keep the thing clean inside and out just 'cause that's how I am - can't stand a dirty/cluttered rig. I love how it looks after a good day of wheelin but I can't help but think it's gonna rust and rot away underneath if I don't give it a good power wash after all the fun. Plus, the cleaner the rig is underneath and in the engine bay the cleaner I am after wrenching on it.
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My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 02-12-2012, 02:48 PM   #90
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Looks great bud! It will be nice having the extra armor down there now. Are you planning on the belly skid next?
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