Yesterday I completed the install on my CB/antenna mount/antenna. If you refer to post #162 you can see how I modded the cubby to fit the cb - really nothing to it.
I decided I wanted to run the power directly from my battery and while I had the front wheel well liners off during the p/w job a couple days ago I noticed it was a perfect time to run the power for the cb through the firewall.
The rubber gasket/grommet for the battery that another JF member, vegose, pointed out to me was in plain sight just under the master cylinder. It is very easy to get to from the wheel well when the liner is pulled:
From behind the fuse block there is a blue ring and you can see the red/black power running through:
With the power fished through:
Now for my parts list:
Cobra 19DX IV cb
3' Firestick II w/ tuneable tip
S4xC LH antenna mount
Firestick HD stainless 3" spring
Firestick Firering 18' coax w/ mounting stud & coax termination
Workman SWR/power meter w/ 3' jumper coax
And the tools materials to use (didn't actually need the heat gun for this):
Assorted terminal kit
Solder and solder flux
5' corrugated electrical conduit
First thing I did was establish power and ground:
I crimped eyelet terminals to the end of the hot and ground wires and then stuffed it in the conduit which runs back to the firewall:
Then I simply took the ground to the side of the engine bay on a preexisting gound location and used the positive post tightening bolt/nut for the hot. A quick note, my hot wire had an inline fuse from the factory. If you have a cb power wire that doesn't and you are getting power from your battery you will want to put a fuse between the battery and the cb unit:
Then I took a bit of the powder coat off the underneath of the mounting eye in order to provide a ground for the Firering connection:
Drilled the pilot holes and set the mount:
Next it was time to figure out the routing of the coax. I took the cargo floor out by pulling the plastic lift gate latch piece (it just pops off with gentle prying) and removing the two 10mm nuts - just lift the floor up from the back and out:
I decided to drill a hole through the body at the bottom of the liftgate jam:
And I ran the coax behind the trim from that hole, up the cargo floor side, under the rear driver passenger door plastic kickplate, under the driver door plastic kickplate and up behind the cubby
Then the coax termination has to be soldered into the end of the coax:
I mounted the antenna spring and antenna:
And chose a spot for the mic:
I also plugged the coax insert with some plummer's putty:
The last thing to do was take it out in an open space and tune the radio/antenna. This is where the SWR meter and jumper coax comes in. There are a multitude of videos on youtube to use for reference in regards to using an SWR meter to tune your set-up. It is trial and error and the slightest adjustments to the antenna tip will make large changes in SWR readings. The best I was able to get was ch1 SWR 1.7; ch40 SWR 1.7; ch20 SWR about 1.4. I drove down the way to the highway and stopped over at a truckstop nearby and asked a trucker if he could help me do a mic/radio check. Everything worked a-o-k. I think at some point I will shorten my coax cable length in order to get rid off the excess I have coiled up behind the dash - I found some info online that said this can be a source of higher SWR's. My SWR's are good enough not to do any damage, but definately less than ideal so I will do some more reading and tweaking to the system. For use on the trails I should be good to go.
Well, I'm probably done with the projects for a while cause the wife is, let's just say, less than thrilled that stuff keeps getting delivered to the house.
To which I just keep my mouth shut
Anyway - I hope this gives a good run through of the process for anybody wanting to do this install themselves. Until next time.........