Okay - got to the strut spacers today and took lots of camera pics along the way so I'll commence with a write-up:
First things first (ignore the Dremel) get everything outta the way under the hood so you can get to the upper strut bolts:
Next - get the front end on some jack stands and the wheels off:
Disco the lower sway link bolt, spindle nut, and I made the "x-tra effort" mistake of pulling the brake caliper on the driver side (this is not needed):
Once I got all that disco'd I came to the eralization that the clevis bolt had to come out in order for the strut tower to drop far enough to fit the spacer plate in. I also realized I didn't have a 24mm impact socket. So - I made a quick run down the street to a tool store and bought this:
In order to get this :
Once the clevis bolt is out the strut cartridge will drop enough to slide the spacer plate over the upper strut bolts:
If you have a helper this part is where they come in handy, otherwise use one hand to raise the cartridge up to the bolt holes and with the other hand finger tighten a couple nuts on top in order to hold the tower while you bolt the strut fork with the clevis bolt:
Put the clevis bolt in and anti-seize the threads after you put it through the bushing:
Driver side put back together:
Finish torqueing the upper strut bolts:
Next - I had some domesticating to take care of.
4+ lb SmartChicken
fresh ground pepper
bake in a 350* oven ~ 2hrs :
^^^ Delicious by the way
Okay - back to the passenger side. Everything is the same as the driver with a couple exceptions. The breather line just pops off the bolt with a flathead screwdriver:
Disco everything to drop the strut down:
Put the spacer in and reassemble everything:
Retorque the strut tower bolts:
Put everything back together under the hood:
Wheels back on. Take it for a spin to see how it drives and sounds:
*Couple things to mention. I always disco my battery before I start jacking with the electrical stuff to get to the driver side strut bolts.
Also - remember to support the lower a-arm with a jack before you start disco'ing everything:
PB Blaster and air tools are your best friend when it comes to the clevis bolt. I don't have a wire wheel bench grinder to clean the bolts so what I did was run the nut back and forth on the clevis bolt to "clean" it:
When separating the spindle from the upper UCA apply gentle upward pry on the UCA with a breaker bar, big flathead, whatever, while whacking the flat spot at the top of the spindle with a hammer:
Don't forget to pop the breather line back on the bolt before putting the coolant reservoir back:
I drove around the block and everything felt and sounded a-ok. This is the finished look of a modified OME HD with 1/2" spacers and new isolators in the rear I installed the other day and the Rusty's 1/4" spacers up front that I put in today:
Oh - and this is why a Rusty's adjustable rear trackbar is in the near future for the red Jeep:
Rear axle has a pretty significant shift to the driver side after this latest modification. Other thing I think I'll pony up for is an alignment.
As always I hope this helps a fellow WK Jeeper out there and until next time.................