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Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!Clayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!Baseline 4x4 Lifetime Warranty 4340 Chromoly Axle Shaft Ki

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Unread 02-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #346
straightsixjeep
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Looking good, drive safe getting down there supposed to be icy. What time to you plan on getting there? (nice avatar, aint nobody got time fo dat)

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Unread 02-22-2013, 04:30 PM   #347
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^^^ Planning on being at the park by 09:00 hrs.
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My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 02-22-2013, 04:33 PM   #348
straightsixjeep
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^^^ Planning on being at the park by 09:00 hrs.
Il be arriving around that time as well. See ya in the swamp
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Unread 02-22-2013, 04:42 PM   #349
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Sounds good Grif I'll keep an eye out for ya. Drive safe.
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My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 03-08-2013, 07:48 AM   #350
Theogriff15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
I got the rear diff cover swapped today so I'll show a run down of the process. Anyone that's done this before knows what I mean when I say DO NOT pay a shop or dealer to do this! It is very easy and requires about 2 hours or less and some simple tools.

First thing I did was heed some good advice and hit the cover with 4 coats of clear in hopes to avoid premature rusting:



Then I assembled my supplies:

Torque and socket wrenches
3/8" and 1/4" allen sockets
13mm socket
some socket extensions
flathead screwdriver
rtv
brake cleaner
75W-140 full syn gear oil
(my QuadratracII does not require additive)



With the 13mm socket loosen all the bolts and remove all but the top bolt:



If replacing the cover with an aftermarket I would check to see that the hardware matches up before cracking the seal of the cover:



Gently pry the bottom of the cover w/ the flathead and let it drain into a catch pan:




Once the draining has slowed or stopped, remove the top bolt and take the cover off. This is what you'll see:



Give it a good wiping with some shop towels to sop up the remaining oil:



Then hit it with some brake cleaner:



And let it dry/evaporate then inspect your gears while you have everything exposed:



While the diff is drying out if you're putting the OEM cover back on use this time to clean the old rtv from the cover. A straight edge razor, flathead, and putty knife serve well here. Be cautious not to marr the inside surface of the cover - but get it as clean as you possibly can:



I was not reusing mine so I only halfway cleaned it and put it away.
Next go ahead and put a bead of rtv around the inside lip of the new cover being sure to encircle the bolt holes and make a continuous bead:



Let the rtv "skin over" for about 10 minutes. While you wait make sure the mating surface of the pumkin flange is clean of debree/oil. Then carefully place the cover trying not to smear the rtv and just snug the bolts down. Don't torque them yet and when you snug them be sure to use a star pattern just like your wheel lugs:



Let that sit for about 10 minutes. During this time you might want to jack the passenger side of the rig up so you have clear access to all the diff bolts:



Now torque the bolts to 30ft/lbs in a star pattern and let it sit for around 30 minutes just to make sure the rtv has set. I went ahead and added the Solid sticker to my collection and put some sealant tape on the diff cover drain plug while I waited:




When you're ready to refill it is easiest to put a clear tube, about 6" long, on the nozzle of the oil bottle:



Fill the diff with 70+oz of oil (according to WKJeeps). I filled mine with 78 ounces of oil just to cover the fact that the after market cover is deeper than the OEM. I don't know this to be a spec but it is what I chose to do. The key is not to fill too much. If you are putting the OEM cover back on then fill the diff just to the point that oil is beginning to ooze out of the bottom of the fill hole.

Lastly, I torqued the fill plug to 44ft/lbs:



And viola! Finished:




Adding this to my WK was easy, fairly cheap (although the gear oil is outrageous at 20 bucks a quart ) and IMO a much needed piece of armor.

As I said in the beginning, anyone needing to service their rear diff, or front diff and even xfer-case, need not pay someone else to do it - with a little time, patience, and basic tools you can do this for around half the cost that a dealer will charge you.

Hope this is usefull to some Jeepers out there

Happy Cinco de Mayo! and until next time.............
Hey man this is a great write up and I plan on following it to replace my OEM diff cover with this one as well. I have the diff cover here, and am planning on going to pick up some fluids today. I have a couple questions:

1- I have the QT1 system, and I am assuming that because neither of us have ELSDS then I can use the Mobil diff fluid, the same as yours?

2- How long after painting the SOLID letters red can you hit it with some clear coats?

3- How long after tightening down the new diff cover do you have to wait to drive?

Thanks for your help in advance man and again awesome write up, should definitely be added the the DIY thread.
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Unread 03-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theogriff15 View Post
Hey man this is a great write up and I plan on following it to replace my OEM diff cover with this one as well. I have the diff cover here, and am planning on going to pick up some fluids today. I have a couple questions:

1- I have the QT1 system, and I am assuming that because neither of us have ELSDS then I can use the Mobil diff fluid, the same as yours?

2- How long after painting the SOLID letters red can you hit it with some clear coats?

3- How long after tightening down the new diff cover do you have to wait to drive?

Thanks for your help in advance man and again awesome write up, should definitely be added the the DIY thread.

Thanks!

Yes the fluid you will use is 75W-140. According to wkjeeps.com all WK axles use this gear oil (the ELSDs also call for limited slip additive).

I put the clear coat to it the day after I'd painted the lettering - but as long as the lettering is dry it shouldn't matter when you put clearcoat on it.

Once you do the final torque down it's good to go - add your oil, put the plug in, and it's ready to drive.
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My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 03-08-2013, 03:00 PM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
Thanks!

Yes the fluid you will use is 75W-140. According to wkjeeps.com all WK axles use this gear oil (the ELSDs also call for limited slip additive).

I put the clear coat to it the day after I'd painted the lettering - but as long as the lettering is dry it shouldn't matter when you put clearcoat on it.

Once you do the final torque down it's good to go - add your oil, put the plug in, and it's ready to drive.
Okay thanks man. I just finished painting the letters. I taped everything else off instead of using touch up paint so I hope it turns out okay. I also read the back of the clear coat once I got it, and it says you must wait 30 mins after applying paint to apply the clear coat. One more thing, must you use non-chlorinated brake cleaner or chlorinated?
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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:41 PM   #353
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Originally Posted by Theogriff15 View Post
Okay thanks man. I just finished painting the letters. I taped everything else off instead of using touch up paint so I hope it turns out okay. I also read the back of the clear coat once I got it, and it says you must wait 30 mins after applying paint to apply the clear coat. One more thing, must you use non-chlorinated brake cleaner or chlorinated?
^^^

The cleaner I used says non-chlorinated on the can. I usually just grab what is on the shelf at the best price when I'm at the store. Never really paid attention to the chlorinated/non.
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My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:45 PM   #354
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Okay cool thanks man. I actually got it painted up tonight (almost). I got the lettering done and am just about to throw my fourth coat of clear on in a minute. Here's what I've come up with:



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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #355
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^^^ Very nice - looks like you're ready to put that sucker on!
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My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:51 PM   #356
Theogriff15
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Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
^^^ Very nice - looks like you're ready to put that sucker on!
Yes sir, I actually have access to a lift now! Very happy about it, this and the rear fender mod just got a whole lot easier! But yea this coming week one day it'll go on, I'll be sure to post some pics
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Unread 03-08-2013, 11:09 PM   #357
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What is the difference? Is that just a stronger one than the stock version? For when it hits rocks?

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Unread 03-08-2013, 11:12 PM   #358
straightsixjeep
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Originally Posted by Jaashua View Post
What is the difference? Is that just a stronger one than the stock version? For when it hits rocks?

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Extra protection against stumps, ruts, rocks, whatever you drive over. Some people buy them because they look cool. They aren't real expensive and are a common mod. Some covers have the fill plug higher incase your setup calls for more diff fluid. If you add it to a stock setup and the fill hole is raised over stock, still put in the correct amount or excess can leak out through your axle seals or your vent tube.
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Unread 03-09-2013, 10:02 AM   #359
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What is the difference? Is that just a stronger one than the stock version? For when it hits rocks?
It is essentially a piece of armor for your differential. Thicker, stronger, higher fill plug. Most aftermarket diff covers have a higher fill plug because they usually get put on a lifted rig - as you lift the Jeep the axles rotate slightly, changing the pinion angle and subsequently the entire pumkin. Think of what beer does as you lift the pint to drink it - the level of the beer stays the same even though the pint glass is tilting toward your mouth. :-)

The reason I swapped mine is I almost peeled my stocker off on a wheeling trip down at SMORR. Pic is after I hammered it back and patched the leak with RTV:





The 5 and 7 o'clock positions have a spot that the lip of the stock cover overlaps the pumpkin flange and it is vulnerable across rocks and such. You can just file the stock cover down but the aftermarket diff cover offers protection when backing over stuff as well.
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~Mike~

My Build Thread WK
My Other Build Thread XJ
'01 XJ with some stuff
Sept 2013 Cherokee of the Month
'07 WK with some other stuff
~RED WK CLUB #7~
'11 KK with mostly stock stuff
'06WK our first Jeep with stock stuff - totalled and gone
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Unread 03-09-2013, 12:01 PM   #360
Theogriff15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
It is essentially a piece of armor for your differential. Thicker, stronger, higher fill plug. Most aftermarket diff covers have a higher fill plug because they usually get put on a lifted rig - as you lift the Jeep the axles rotate slightly, changing the pinion angle and subsequently the entire pumkin. Think of what beer does as you lift the pint to drink it - the level of the beer stays the same even though the pint glass is tilting toward your mouth. :-)

The reason I swapped mine is I almost peeled my stocker off on a wheeling trip down at SMORR. Pic is after I hammered it back and patched the leak with RTV:





The 5 and 7 o'clock positions have a spot that the lip of the stock cover overlaps the pumpkin flange and it is vulnerable across rocks and such. You can just file the stock cover down but the aftermarket diff cover offers protection when backing over stuff as well.
Is that the S4xC t case skid adapter I see in the background?
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