Yeah, that Cobra cb fits right in the cubby nicely. The truck stop didn't have the hardware I was looking for so I think I'll have to order some more items from Amazon. How did you wire the power for the unit? Did you go through the firewall directly to the battery or just run the red wire into the fuse box?
I've been reading through the cb threads in the main page and it seems to depend on the poster.
Oh, and did you get a srw meter? Did you find it necessary?
I ran the power into the fuse box under the steering wheel on a constant fuse that way I can use the cb even with the jeep off and the radio remembers the channel I ise most frequently. I get absolutely no interference at all. I run two 3' firestiks and no swr meter. I highly recommend the S4XC antenna mount with the firestik firering coaxial cable
'05 WK Limited, QD-II, 5.7L HEMI, Volant Cold Air Intake, Aries Taillight Guards, Rola Roof Rack, Cobra CB, Firestik Antennas, Magnaflow Performance Exhaust, OME HD lift, 285/70-17 GY Duratracs, Spidertrax Spacers, Superchips Programmer, Steel Armadillo Super Sliders
~Jeep makes it HEMI shakes it~Ain't Nothing Humble about that HEMI Rumble~
And I have an swr meter because of your too high which I was at first it can and will damage the radio
Originally Posted by S1L3NT_WH33L3R
. I highly recommend the S4XC antenna mount with the firestik firering coaxial cable
I decided to heed both pieces of advice today. Ordered the S4xC LH antenna mount (I like the clean look it has) and a Firestick Firering 18' coax with stainless K4 mount stud and a heavy duty stainless antenna spring. And I also put in for a Workman SWR/power meter w/ 3' jumper coax. Now I just have to wait for it all to come in.
In the meantime, I think I'll get started on modding some fenders this week........
Well last time I checked the Craigslist ad had been revised with pics in absentia. I guess repeatedly flagging it and sending emails to the moderators to either pull the ad or get the pics off did the trick.
Anyway, on to my build. I started my cb install the other night but I'm waiting on the rest of my install parts to arrive so I decided to tackle the rear fenders and pinch welds in the meantime. My last wheeling trip exposed some rubbing I hadn't anticipated or experienced yet - so it was time.
While I know I'm not the first person to do this I figured I'd "show my work" anyway cause I figure the more the merry - so I'll start with the rear fender roll mod.
First things first - a materials list. These include what you'll need (or will prove useful) for the pinch weld as well:
Picked these up at Harbor Freight on the cheap:
rivet gun pn#97757
1500 watt dual temp heat gun pn#96289
box of assorted poly rivets
4.5" angle grinder with cut-off, grinding, smoothing discs
universal push pins retainers used to reattach the plastic door trim peice
Rustoleum primer/sealer and undercoating
So - get the back end jacked up and the tires outta the way:
Peel the rubber seal from the plastic trim piece at the rear of the back doors and with a flathead screwdriver gently pry the plastic trim from the door
Then with the cut-off disc make your cuts about every inch along the inside of the fender well. Honestly, any more spacing and your gonna have a hard time laying the steel over nicely because it is on a curve.
Next just start hammering the cuts over. You might use a hard, flat surfaced object on the outboard side of the fender well to offer some support against your hammer - I used a scrap piece of 2x4. It won't look pretty and you'll chip the crap outta the paint on the edges but that's okay. Just get it as flat as you can.
After that I used a grinding disc to ease out the rough edges.
Then I finished up with a good smoothing scotchbrite disc.
I prepped the surface with a good cleaning of simple green followed by some isopropyl alcohol
And my shop towel didn't sustain any damage or tears so I figured any tire rubbing, should it still occur post mod, shouldn't be enough to damage the tire.
Then I taped off the area I didn't want over spray on and my brother held a piece of cardboard to catch the rest. I taped off about 1/4" to 1/2" from the edge just to capture the paint/bare steel interface. I forgot to mention, put a trash bag over the rotor/caliper/hub before you get started cutting and grinding so you don't end up with a bunch of crap in your brakes.
Give the edge and inside fender lip a good blast of primer/sealer for at least two coats.
And while that dries you can trim down the plastic trim piece. We used the cut-off disc and taped off a scribed line about 3/8" from the 90* bend in the trim piece
Once the primer is good and dry give it a liberal dose of the undercoating on the edge and especially the inside fender lip and pull the tape right after. I have to say that undercoating stuff is awesome! I even sprayed some of the wheel well for good measure.
The undercoating takes quite a while to dry so you may as well crack open a cold one and watch it dry cause you're almost done.
It helps to pull the rivet out of the rear of the plastic rocker trim in order to get to the bottom of the fender lip during all this so go ahead and set a new one in.
Once the undercoating is dry go ahead and pop the plastic trim piece on with the universal retainer pins and reseat the rubber seal.
And that is the day's work! Once it's done it has a nice clean, factory look with about .5" more clearance in the front of the rear fender.
Put all back together like nothing ever happened.
This was all done yesterday afternoon and today the pinch welds were folded over. I'll post that work up in a day or two. Hope this is helpful for somebody out there and untill next time - happy Jeepin!
Moving on to the day after the rear fenders were rolled: tackling the pinch welds.
The supplies to use are the same as the rear fenders mod which are a couple posts back for reference. This mod is easy and tricky at the same time. Actually folding the p/w over is easy - it's the wheel well liner that is tricky. I used a heat gun for this and I'd say I could do this 10 times and not get the exact same results twice. But - the way I did it got the job done.
For starters - again, jack it up and get the tires out of the way.
Again, put trash bags over the rotor/caliper/hub to avoid brake contamination.
With the exception of the inboard pushpin retainers, yank the plastic rivets holding the liner out any way you can - you won't be able to reuse them and that is what the handy rivet gun and assorted rivets are for. As far as the retainers - gently pry the center head up with a flathead screwdriver and the retainer will come out - save these.
This is what you will see:
One thing to note - the black trashbag looking thing between the outer wheel well and the pinch weld. I can only assume it is a sound insulator. If you take it out like I did - don't forget to put it back in like I did.
With the cut off disc, make cuts about every inch or so being sure to straddle the spot welds:
And hammer that pinch weld over as completely flat as you can:
Next, hit the rough edges with the grinding disc and then smooth it with the scotchbrite disc:
Prep the surface with some simple green and isopropyl alcohol cleaning and you're ready for the primer/sealer. Don't skimp on this and give it a couple coats:
Once the primer is good and dry I hit the area with some Rustoleum High Heat flat black. I had this in the garage, it is for painting grills, and is resistant up to 1200* - which is good because the heat gun used to soften/melt the plastic liner gets HOT.
While the paint dried I decided to cut the lowest portion of the rear of the liner off. I did this because I anticipated that it would create a very catchy spot to try to flatten out.
Once the paint was dry I refit the plastic liner by reinserting the pushpins:
Then I set new rivets around the fender lip:
Next I placed a self tapping metal screw between the rear bottom rivet and the pinch weld convex of the liner right about here:
This is to hold the liner in place as it is heated and then "stretched" to the inboard/rear corner with the goal of pulling the convex flat up against the modified pinch weld. The initial heating of the liner with the heat gun takes some time and the only portion you are trying to heat is the bump of the convex. As it starts to get shiny and soft start pushing/pulling the inside rear of the liner with a piece of 2x4. Once it gets hot enough it will "stretch" flat across the p/w and you can take the piece of 2x4 and smash the heated plastic as flat against the rear well as you can and hold it for a bit till it cools off in place. I don't have any pictures of this process because it was a trial and error sort of deal.
Once I got it sufficiently flattened I set another self tapping metal screw on the other side of the p/w and then Let everything cool for a few minutes. The end result is neither smooth nor neccessarily pretty. But, hey, it's a fender well.
Then I sprayed the area with some Rustoleum undercoating:
I took some before/after shots to illustrate the clearance all of this madness creates:
The finished project looks like this:
Like I said - the heating and shaping of the plastic liner is really like what I've heard other people refer to as "massaging." It is not an exact science and will probably frustrate you at some point. Be patient with it, take your time, and the finished project should give you about another 1" or more of clearance for those bigger tires you always dreamed of
Next up - my cb install. All the rest of the install parts were delivered yesterday (of course I was on duty). The plan is to install the cb/antenna&mount, and tune it today and once I'm done I'll give a run down of the process. Until next time............
Yesterday I completed the install on my CB/antenna mount/antenna. If you refer to post #162 you can see how I modded the cubby to fit the cb - really nothing to it.
I decided I wanted to run the power directly from my battery and while I had the front wheel well liners off during the p/w job a couple days ago I noticed it was a perfect time to run the power for the cb through the firewall.
The rubber gasket/grommet for the battery that another JF member, vegose, pointed out to me was in plain sight just under the master cylinder. It is very easy to get to from the wheel well when the liner is pulled:
From behind the fuse block there is a blue ring and you can see the red/black power running through:
With the power fished through:
Now for my parts list:
Cobra 19DX IV cb
3' Firestick II w/ tuneable tip
S4xC LH antenna mount
Firestick HD stainless 3" spring
Firestick Firering 18' coax w/ mounting stud & coax termination
Workman SWR/power meter w/ 3' jumper coax
And the tools materials to use (didn't actually need the heat gun for this):
Assorted terminal kit
Solder and solder flux
5' corrugated electrical conduit
First thing I did was establish power and ground:
I crimped eyelet terminals to the end of the hot and ground wires and then stuffed it in the conduit which runs back to the firewall:
Then I simply took the ground to the side of the engine bay on a preexisting gound location and used the positive post tightening bolt/nut for the hot. A quick note, my hot wire had an inline fuse from the factory. If you have a cb power wire that doesn't and you are getting power from your battery you will want to put a fuse between the battery and the cb unit:
Then I took a bit of the powder coat off the underneath of the mounting eye in order to provide a ground for the Firering connection:
Drilled the pilot holes and set the mount:
Next it was time to figure out the routing of the coax. I took the cargo floor out by pulling the plastic lift gate latch piece (it just pops off with gentle prying) and removing the two 10mm nuts - just lift the floor up from the back and out:
I decided to drill a hole through the body at the bottom of the liftgate jam:
And I ran the coax behind the trim from that hole, up the cargo floor side, under the rear driver passenger door plastic kickplate, under the driver door plastic kickplate and up behind the cubby
Then the coax termination has to be soldered into the end of the coax:
I mounted the antenna spring and antenna:
And chose a spot for the mic:
I also plugged the coax insert with some plummer's putty:
The last thing to do was take it out in an open space and tune the radio/antenna. This is where the SWR meter and jumper coax comes in. There are a multitude of videos on youtube to use for reference in regards to using an SWR meter to tune your set-up. It is trial and error and the slightest adjustments to the antenna tip will make large changes in SWR readings. The best I was able to get was ch1 SWR 1.7; ch40 SWR 1.7; ch20 SWR about 1.4. I drove down the way to the highway and stopped over at a truckstop nearby and asked a trucker if he could help me do a mic/radio check. Everything worked a-o-k. I think at some point I will shorten my coax cable length in order to get rid off the excess I have coiled up behind the dash - I found some info online that said this can be a source of higher SWR's. My SWR's are good enough not to do any damage, but definately less than ideal so I will do some more reading and tweaking to the system. For use on the trails I should be good to go.
Well, I'm probably done with the projects for a while cause the wife is, let's just say, less than thrilled that stuff keeps getting delivered to the house.
To which I just keep my mouth shut
Anyway - I hope this gives a good run through of the process for anybody wanting to do this install themselves. Until next time.........