Well last time I checked the Craigslist ad had been revised with pics in absentia. I guess repeatedly flagging it and sending emails to the moderators to either pull the ad or get the pics off did the trick.
Anyway, on to my build. I started my cb install the other night but I'm waiting on the rest of my install parts to arrive so I decided to tackle the rear fenders and pinch welds in the meantime. My last wheeling trip exposed some rubbing I hadn't anticipated or experienced yet - so it was time.
While I know I'm not the first person to do this I figured I'd "show my work" anyway cause I figure the more the merry - so I'll start with the rear fender roll mod.
First things first - a materials list. These include what you'll need (or will prove useful) for the pinch weld as well:
Picked these up at Harbor Freight on the cheap:
rivet gun pn#97757
1500 watt dual temp heat gun pn#96289
box of assorted poly rivets
4.5" angle grinder with cut-off, grinding, smoothing discs
universal push pins retainers used to reattach the plastic door trim peice
Rustoleum primer/sealer and undercoating
So - get the back end jacked up and the tires outta the way:
Peel the rubber seal from the plastic trim piece at the rear of the back doors and with a flathead screwdriver gently pry the plastic trim from the door
Then with the cut-off disc make your cuts about every inch along the inside of the fender well. Honestly, any more spacing and your gonna have a hard time laying the steel over nicely because it is on a curve.
Next just start hammering the cuts over. You might use a hard, flat surfaced object on the outboard side of the fender well to offer some support against your hammer - I used a scrap piece of 2x4. It won't look pretty and you'll chip the crap outta the paint on the edges but that's okay. Just get it as flat as you can.
After that I used a grinding disc to ease out the rough edges.
Then I finished up with a good smoothing scotchbrite disc.
I prepped the surface with a good cleaning of simple green followed by some isopropyl alcohol
And my shop towel didn't sustain any damage or tears so I figured any tire rubbing, should it still occur post mod, shouldn't be enough to damage the tire.
Then I taped off the area I didn't want over spray on and my brother held a piece of cardboard to catch the rest. I taped off about 1/4" to 1/2" from the edge just to capture the paint/bare steel interface. I forgot to mention, put a trash bag over the rotor/caliper/hub before you get started cutting and grinding so you don't end up with a bunch of crap in your brakes.
Give the edge and inside fender lip a good blast of primer/sealer for at least two coats.
And while that dries you can trim down the plastic trim piece. We used the cut-off disc and taped off a scribed line about 3/8" from the 90* bend in the trim piece
Once the primer is good and dry give it a liberal dose of the undercoating on the edge and especially the inside fender lip and pull the tape right after. I have to say that undercoating stuff is awesome! I even sprayed some of the wheel well for good measure.
The undercoating takes quite a while to dry so you may as well crack open a cold one and watch it dry cause you're almost done.
It helps to pull the rivet out of the rear of the plastic rocker trim in order to get to the bottom of the fender lip during all this so go ahead and set a new one in.
Once the undercoating is dry go ahead and pop the plastic trim piece on with the universal retainer pins and reseat the rubber seal.
And that is the day's work!
Once it's done it has a nice clean, factory look with about .5" more clearance in the front of the rear fender.
Put all back together like nothing ever happened.
This was all done yesterday afternoon and today the pinch welds were folded over. I'll post that work up in a day or two. Hope this is helpful for somebody out there and untill next time - happy Jeepin!