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Unread 04-25-2013, 07:22 PM   #1
lafacej
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakmont, Pa
Posts: 350
Looking at a 2006 5.7L

Hey everyone,

I am a WJ owner (4.0 Laredo) and am going to look at a 2006 WK with the 5.7L Hemi this weekend and wanted some advice. I checked out the sticky for buying a WK and know about the sunroof,transmission, climate control illumination issues. I will definitely give it a thorough test drive, what should I look for in the shifting, besides clunking? Unfortunately, I am not sure what 4x4 system it has as the ad doesn't say, but its a 2006 Limited with the Hemi if that helps. It has about 120k miles, which according to what I've read it can go many more. Any advice would be great, thanks for your help everyone!

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Unread 04-25-2013, 07:38 PM   #2
Jaashua
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Looks like you already know what to look for.

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Unread 04-25-2013, 10:08 PM   #3
lafacej
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaashua
Looks like you already know what to look for.

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Awesome thanks. I guess the aware dependable vehicles. I love my Jeep but I'm excited to get into a newer one with NAV, heated leather, V8, etc
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Unread 04-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #4
JeepCares
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafacej View Post
Hey everyone,

I am a WJ owner (4.0 Laredo) and am going to look at a 2006 WK with the 5.7L Hemi this weekend and wanted some advice.
..
Unfortunately, I am not sure what 4x4 system it has as the ad doesn't say, but its a 2006 Limited with the Hemi if that helps.
There were both 4X2 and 4X4 Limiteds with a Hemi for the 2006 model year.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 08:53 AM   #5
trax95008
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If it does have 4X4, it will definitely be the QDII given the fact that its a limited with HEMI. I'm a little surprised to hear you could get a limited HEMI 4X2. Can you really even call that a Jeep?
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Unread 04-26-2013, 09:05 AM   #6
longboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafacej View Post
Awesome thanks. I guess the aware dependable vehicles. I love my Jeep but I'm excited to get into a newer one with NAV, heated leather, V8, etc
I did pretty much what you did: came from a '99 WJ with the 4.0 to an '06 WK with the 5.7 and absolutely love it.

The best part is having the power you wish you had in the 4.0 and still getting within 1mpg of the 4.0.

As for the 4wd system, does the ad (I'm assuming it's an ad online?) have a VIN number? If so, run the VIN thru a VIN decoder and it should tell you if it is at least 4wd vs. 2wd. I used this one when I was shopping: www.decodethis.com

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions!
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Unread 04-26-2013, 10:42 AM   #7
lafacej
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longboy

I did pretty much what you did: came from a '99 WJ with the 4.0 to an '06 WK with the 5.7 and absolutely love it.

The best part is having the power you wish you had in the 4.0 and still getting within 1mpg of the 4.0.

As for the 4wd system, does the ad (I'm assuming it's an ad online?) have a VIN number? If so, run the VIN thru a VIN decoder and it should tell you if it is at least 4wd vs. 2wd. I used this one when I was shopping: www.decodethis.com

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for the decoder I just checked that out. I knew it was 4wd for sure, I wouldn't be looking at it if it wasn't lol. I have driven the 5.7 in a couple test drives and the difference between it and the 4.0 with the WJ is worlds apart. Assuming this one rides nicely and everything works and checks out I'm prob going to get it.

Thanks for the help.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 12:03 PM   #8
longboy
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When you drive it, the 4wd system should be noted just under the gear selector. Should be Quadratrac II or most likely Quadradrive II (the QD2 is the one with limited slips front and rear).
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Unread 04-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #9
90grandoneer
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Is this from a Jeep stealer, private party, or independent dealer? I haven't read the thread you referenced, so some of this may have already been covered. A few things to add, IMO: On the trans., check the fluid color and smell. Make sure (if it's been serviced) that the fluid is still red and does not smell burnt. If it's not been serviced recently, the fluid color may be brownish, and this is normal. If it was properly maintained, it should have had the fluid/filters changed at 100K or less. I change mine every 30K, because fluid and filters are cheaper than transmission overhauls. Make sure the fluid level is on the mark when heated up. Check transitions from park to reverse and reverse to drive and back. It should not lag, be harsh, or "ooze" between changes. Hopefully, when you check it, it will not have been started previously that day (maybe go check it first thing in the AM), and you can see if goes into gear (drive or reverse) immediately upon starting. I mean, start it and put it in gear right away. If there is a lag there, the converter check valve may not be sealing properly, and after about 10-15 seconds it should go into gear. This, by itself, should not be a deal breaker, and may just mean it needs a fluid change. On the upshift roughness, the only gear change that this may/should occur would be on the 3-4 (4th is first overdrive gear) upshift. It tends to happen more at light throttle and/or if you're slightly letting off the throttle when it shifts. All other light throttle upshifts should be smooth (yuk!), but yet, not be slipping, jerky, or prolonged. All downshifts, when coming to a stop, should be smooth and not "bang" into the lower gears. Enough on the tranny.

Check the brake rotors for smoothness....i.e. no grooves in the rotor, or ridges (you can feel them) on the outer perimeter of them. You should be able to see this without removing the wheels. You also, may be able to see about how much brake pad is left, but this normally takes someone who is familar with looking at calipers, rotors and their relative positions when the pads are worn.

Listen for "clunks" or snapping noises in the front end, especially when going up and down driveways while turning, or over speed bumps. Check the tire wear patterns on all wheels, looking for other than even wear across the tread. Make sure there is no "slop" in the steering, and it turns, lock to lock, smoothly. The slightest movement of the wheel should change vehicle direction. Listen for any differential noise or whine, both while throttle is on, when there is no load, and on deceleration. Look for evidence of leakage from any fluid holding component.....radiator/thermostat housing, diffs., transfer case, transmission, engine. Seeping or leaking transmission cooler lines near the radiator is a common problem. This isn't costly to repair, but the R and R is kind of a PITA. Check the engine oil for possible (hopefully) recent change and proper level. Have they detailed the engine compartment? Hopefully, they haven't and you can better see any "wet" areas around the engine components.

Make sure all electrical equipment/options and accessories work in every direction/position. If it has folding electric side mirrors, make sure they work. If it has "U-Connect", make sure the nice lady will talk to you. If it has a Nav. radio (REC) make sure there is a Nav. disc inserted.....just push the Nav. button and it should take you to the menu. If there is a disc (it probably won't be current), use the "joystick" to program in any destination. The joysticks on some of the early REC's would go bad (mine was when I bought it), and you will not be able to set it up. Cost to repair (I fixed mine myself) can be inexpensive, or cost a small fortune, depending on which route you choose.

I could go on and on, but this, along with everyone elses input should get you going in the right direction. One last thing, if you're dealing with a Jeep dealer, make them update the PCM/TCM to the latest CALID flash files. This will insure many of the "glitches" and TSB's found/issued over the years have been addressed. Mine still had the original programming and was 4 updates behind when I bought it. Good luck, and I hope everything checks out. If you end up getting it, unless they can show the 100K service records, you should probably take some time and go through everything so you know exactly where everything stands. I bought mine with ~48K on it and all the previous owner did was drive it. Still had the original spark plugs, the dealer had installed the wrong weight oil (the Hemi must have 5W-20), and none of the TSB's had been addressed.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 03:29 PM   #10
lafacej
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakmont, Pa
Posts: 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
Is this from a Jeep stealer, private party, or independent dealer? I haven't read the thread you referenced, so some of this may have already been covered. A few things to add, IMO: On the trans., check the fluid color and smell. Make sure (if it's been serviced) that the fluid is still red and does not smell burnt. If it's not been serviced recently, the fluid color may be brownish, and this is normal. If it was properly maintained, it should have had the fluid/filters changed at 100K or less. I change mine every 30K, because fluid and filters are cheaper than transmission overhauls. Make sure the fluid level is on the mark when heated up. Check transitions from park to reverse and reverse to drive and back. It should not lag, be harsh, or "ooze" between changes. Hopefully, when you check it, it will not have been started previously that day (maybe go check it first thing in the AM), and you can see if goes into gear (drive or reverse) immediately upon starting. I mean, start it and put it in gear right away. If there is a lag there, the converter check valve may not be sealing properly, and after about 10-15 seconds it should go into gear. This, by itself, should not be a deal breaker, and may just mean it needs a fluid change. On the upshift roughness, the only gear change that this may/should occur would be on the 3-4 (4th is first overdrive gear) upshift. It tends to happen more at light throttle and/or if you're slightly letting off the throttle when it shifts. All other light throttle upshifts should be smooth (yuk!), but yet, not be slipping, jerky, or prolonged. All downshifts, when coming to a stop, should be smooth and not "bang" into the lower gears. Enough on the tranny.

Check the brake rotors for smoothness....i.e. no grooves in the rotor, or ridges (you can feel them) on the outer perimeter of them. You should be able to see this without removing the wheels. You also, may be able to see about how much brake pad is left, but this normally takes someone who is familar with looking at calipers, rotors and their relative positions when the pads are worn.

Listen for "clunks" or snapping noises in the front end, especially when going up and down driveways while turning, or over speed bumps. Check the tire wear patterns on all wheels, looking for other than even wear across the tread. Make sure there is no "slop" in the steering, and it turns, lock to lock, smoothly. The slightest movement of the wheel should change vehicle direction. Listen for any differential noise or whine, both while throttle is on, when there is no load, and on deceleration. Look for evidence of leakage from any fluid holding component.....radiator/thermostat housing, diffs., transfer case, transmission, engine. Seeping or leaking transmission cooler lines near the radiator is a common problem. This isn't costly to repair, but the R and R is kind of a PITA. Check the engine oil for possible (hopefully) recent change and proper level. Have they detailed the engine compartment? Hopefully, they haven't and you can better see any "wet" areas around the engine components.

Make sure all electrical equipment/options and accessories work in every direction/position. If it has folding electric side mirrors, make sure they work. If it has "U-Connect", make sure the nice lady will talk to you. If it has a Nav. radio (REC) make sure there is a Nav. disc inserted.....just push the Nav. button and it should take you to the menu. If there is a disc (it probably won't be current), use the "joystick" to program in any destination. The joysticks on some of the early REC's would go bad (mine was when I bought it), and you will not be able to set it up. Cost to repair (I fixed mine myself) can be inexpensive, or cost a small fortune, depending on which route you choose.

I could go on and on, but this, along with everyone elses input should get you going in the right direction. One last thing, if you're dealing with a Jeep dealer, make them update the PCM/TCM to the latest CALID flash files. This will insure many of the "glitches" and TSB's found/issued over the years have been addressed. Mine still had the original programming and was 4 updates behind when I bought it. Good luck, and I hope everything checks out. If you end up getting it, unless they can show the 100K service records, you should probably take some time and go through everything so you know exactly where everything stands. I bought mine with ~48K on it and all the previous owner did was drive it. Still had the original spark plugs, the dealer had installed the wrong weight oil (the Hemi must have 5W-20), and none of the TSB's had been addressed.
Awesome advice thanks. I'm going to look at it first thing tomorrow morning so I should get a good idea about the tranny then. Does the NAV not work without the disc?
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Unread 04-26-2013, 03:41 PM   #11
PhantomOak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longboy View Post
I did pretty much what you did: came from a '99 WJ with the 4.0 to an '06 WK with the 5.7 and absolutely love it.

The best part is having the power you wish you had in the 4.0 and still getting within 1mpg of the 4.0.

As for the 4wd system, does the ad (I'm assuming it's an ad online?) have a VIN number? If so, run the VIN thru a VIN decoder and it should tell you if it is at least 4wd vs. 2wd. I used this one when I was shopping: www.decodethis.com

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions!
I went from (93 and 96) ZJ 4.0 to 5.7 HEMI '06

I get HORRIBLE MPG city compairtivly (~10 vs 13 or 30%) and much better hyw (18 v low 20). I spend most of my time driving on the hyw (10-90) so I end up with better MPG. Ridiculous when I think about it.


I still love the 4.0 because of how simple and awesome they are, but the power with the 5.7... It exists. Like a mo fo. So much so that having it in cruise control seems like caging a unicorn.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 03:48 PM   #12
PhantomOak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafacej View Post
Awesome advice thanks. I'm going to look at it first thing tomorrow morning so I should get a good idea about the tranny then. Does the NAV not work without the disc?
I was excited about the NAV when I got it... that nav system is garbage. It is clunky to operate and looks terrible. I used it twice and never bothered again. My phone destroys it for picture quality, ease of use, maps, etc.



I would not worry about it. One thing though, if you ever want to listen to an iPod or something, the only way I have found stock is the aux-in on the DVD player behind the center console (I think it is in the Glove box for non-dvd models?). It is ugly and a PITA. BUT, if that does not work or is broken, that will cause you some frustration, and you will likely want to pull the head unit and add in a custom aux. There are several ways to do this, ranging from a few dozen bucks to buying a new head unity, but you can make it out to be a bigger deal if the stock way is broken.


Also, you will want to make sure to check paint and window tints. My door and front quarter were repainted (I had to really look to see it). I saved myself a $1500 even though it was not on the carfax or anything.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 04:50 PM   #13
lafacej
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Posts: 350
Good to know, does the NAV unit not have Bluetooth capability for streaming music? This limited actually does have the rear DVD system which is going to be completely useless for me bc I'm a 21 year old with no plans for kids until after medical school.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 04:52 PM   #14
90grandoneer
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Without the Nav. disc, you have no maps and it won't work. Yes, the Nav. units on the early ones are pretty much junk, but I do find uses for it. I have the latest maps in mine, and it's good for looking up entertainment sites, restaurants, hotels, and such. I used it on my last trip to call call a museum I couldn't find, and it dialed them right up on the U-Connect. When traveling, I use a Garmin Nuvi for navigating and use the REC for positioning and altitude. I also use it for "exploring new towns and seeing which way streets go and if they're dead ends or not. With the two of them, it's an OK setup. The newer ones are a lot nicer for sure, but I am not too wild about the price of switching over. I could do some cool mods for the price of a new later model unit.
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06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS Tuner, Cust tubular hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 05:06 PM   #15
lafacej
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakmont, Pa
Posts: 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer
Without the Nav. disc, you have no maps and it won't work. Yes, the Nav. units on the early ones are pretty much junk, but I do find uses for it. I have the latest maps in mine, and it's good for looking up entertainment sites, restaurants, hotels, and such. I used it on my last trip to call call a museum I couldn't find, and it dialed them right up on the U-Connect. When traveling, I use a Garmin Nuvi for navigating and use the REC for positioning and altitude. I also use it for "exploring new towns and seeing which way streets go and if they're dead ends or not. With the two of them, it's an OK setup. The newer ones are a lot nicer for sure, but I am not too wild about the price of switching over. I could do some cool mods for the price of a new later model unit.
Are the discs available aftermarket, or that's a dealership item?
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